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YAK-3 From Russia with...

(y)

You talking about that big square bottle of Testors lacquer dullcote?
.


This one Bob . Yes, it's Testors.

Yak_back_rest_001a.jpg


The stick and the seat rest are drying in place . Wanted the seat to be in the correct position since it's not fool proof

Nearly forgot but I found that Eduard piece for the instrument panel after all ....Poor pictographs I guess.

Anyhow, my fix is usable and I sort of wonder how I would had placed three bends in two pieces of painted PE and got them to match one another :idonno

Yak_back_rest_002a.jpg


Cheers, Christian B)
 
Ok, I found another couple necessary adjustments that were needed . Gonna blow the dust out and start assembling :soldier

Yak_interior_assy_007.jpg


yak_interior_assy_006a.jpg


Cheers, Christian B)
 
Looking good!
As to using super glue, I NEVER use it directly out of the bottle! I have about a dozen defunked sapphire crystals from gents watches that I place a drop (or 2) of CA on and then use fine steel wire with a chisel end to apply small amounts of CA right where I want.
When the crystal is covered with dry CA I take a razor blade and scrape it all off. The sapphire is super hard so it doesn't tend to scratch at all. Since the surface of the sapphire crystal is super smooth, the drop of CA is there for at least a couple of hours until it starts to dry. The biggest problem is setting something down on top of the crystal and the CA. :facepalm Thus I have learned to place the crystal up and away from the work area when I am not working with it directly.

With big areas or joints I will tack the parts together and then add small amounts of CA to the seam until it fills it in. If done right, you can fill and make a nice fine fillet and no sanding will be needed. :woohoo:
 
Looking good!
As to using super glue, I NEVER use it directly out of the bottle! I have about a dozen defunked sapphire crystals from gents watches that I place a drop (or 2) of CA on and then use fine steel wire with a chisel end to apply small amounts of CA right where I want.
When the crystal is covered with dry CA I take a razor blade and scrape it all off. The sapphire is super hard so it doesn't tend to scratch at all. Since the surface of the sapphire crystal is super smooth, the drop of CA is there for at least a couple of hours until it starts to dry. The biggest problem is setting something down on top of the crystal and the CA. :facepalm Thus I have learned to place the crystal up and away from the work area when I am not working with it directly.

With big areas or joints I will tack the parts together and then add small amounts of CA to the seam until it fills it in. If done right, you can fill and make a nice fine fillet and no sanding will be needed. :woohoo:


Normally I apply the Hobby Lobby supper glue with a wire or loop .

When it's out of sight and I want strength I often use it from the nozzle without any problems .

This glue has the viscosity of water which has had wetting agents added . It was trully failure to engage brain before grabbing the glue. :smack

My gluing method is obviously not as sophisticated as yours . My pallet is easy clean up but my applicator could definitely be improved .

glue_001a~0.jpg


Can we view what your applicator looks like ?

I don't have any spare watch crystals but I could come up with steel wire . :coolio

Thanks for the tips and kind words :good:

Cheers, Christian B)
 
Sorry I haven't been following Christian! You're doing a bang up job here! I especially love what you did with the fuel gauges! Top notch work sir!

Mike
:popcorn
 
Thanks Luiz, Mike and Alex . No real progress today and it's doubtful tomorrow I fear tomorrow will be no better.

Cheers, Christian B)
 
Looks very nice Chris. Love that cockpit. For super glue I found the easiest way to apply thin glue is to take a sowing needle and nip of the end of the eye. Chuck it in a handle or make one of dowel. I have different sizes of needle. When they clog I just use a lighter to burn the old dry glue off. I also use beer caps to hold the glue. Hope that is of some use to you.
James
 
Got a sheet of these-- they ought to last forever as you basically do what James suggested and burn off the excess with a lighter,...

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1544910445/the-glue-looper-version-3
 
Thanks James :hmmm Mike has told me about the beer caps but I have never tried them .

I'm not a beer drinker myself but I know where I can get some :rotf Need to try it...

I like the idea of the needle eye as that is something I can control the size on and the lighter idea is very simple . .
I would also be curious to see Paul's idea . Sounds interesting.

Thanks for the nice words :good:

Cheers, Christian B)
 
That is just beautiful!!! :notworthy :notworthy :notworthy

You have inspired me to work on something Russian too. Wonderful Job master!

Cheers

Alex

Thanks Alex :good: Glad to be influential ahemmm...If not always in a good way :rotf

This is a pretty cool kit in general .Probably better PE with the pricier version though .

Cheers, Christian
 
Got a sheet of these-- they ought to last forever as you basically do what James suggested and burn off the excess with a lighter,...

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1544910445/the-glue-looper-version-3


Thanks Mike . I saw something like these at the IPMS show . Not sure if it was identical but got distracted by something else :frantic

Looks awfully big for 1/72 but don't want to make a decision on a picture alone .

One thing for sure is that a tool upgrade would be a plus.

Cheers, Christian B)
 
Ok, I found another couple necessary adjustments that were needed . Gonna blow the dust out and start assembling :soldier

Yak_interior_assy_007.jpg


yak_interior_assy_006a.jpg


Cheers, Christian B)

THAT is some incredible work Sir! That IS 1/72, right? I would feel good to have that level of detail in 1/32!
 
Ok, I found another couple necessary adjustments that were needed . Gonna blow the dust out and start assembling :soldier

Yak_interior_assy_007.jpg


yak_interior_assy_006a.jpg


Cheers, Christian B)

THAT is some incredible work Sir! That IS 1/72, right? I would feel good to have that level of detail in 1/32!


Sorry to disappoint Bruce . This is one of my few 1/48 kits .

Even so, it was tricky to do . The eduard fit is just not that accurate . I would be extremely chalenge to do this well in 1/72 ... :blush:

Cheers, Christian B)
 
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