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"The Inglorious Basterd"
- Thread starter Iron Mike
- Start date
dukwhunter
Member
Outstanding job Mike . Coming together nicely !!!! B)
randy_ditton
Master at Arms
Hi Mike, The soldering looks great 
Randy
Randy
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
Thank you to all who replied!! This has been a fun build so far! I asked about damaging road wheels way back when and have made use of the fine tutorial by Ian Hill to try my hand at making something look messed up on purpose! Harder than it looks, let me tell you! Here's today progress so far, just mocked up for pix.
I need to do some more filing and sanding on a few of the tires, but I wanted to put these up since it's easier to see the rough stuff on the computer! Thoughts, suggestions, jeers??
I need to do some more filing and sanding on a few of the tires, but I wanted to put these up since it's easier to see the rough stuff on the computer! Thoughts, suggestions, jeers??
AndyFettes
Master at Arms
Excellent!!!
Love the damaged wheels
Love the damaged wheels
So would you paint inside the damage a fresher color of rubber, or more beat up?
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
Thanks, Terry and Andy!!
Bob, my best guess is inside might be darker, but unless it just came apart, there would be grime, dust etc over the whole wheel. I plan to dry brush the edges anyway, so that ought to highlight them. :idonno
I have been looking at the kit barrel and the Eduard piece I had purchased awhile back and don't like either of them. Does anyone have a suggestion for a good turned aluminum piece? The RB Model RB-35B42 looks pretty cool, I'm just not sure what to use.
Bob, my best guess is inside might be darker, but unless it just came apart, there would be grime, dust etc over the whole wheel. I plan to dry brush the edges anyway, so that ought to highlight them. :idonno
I have been looking at the kit barrel and the Eduard piece I had purchased awhile back and don't like either of them. Does anyone have a suggestion for a good turned aluminum piece? The RB Model RB-35B42 looks pretty cool, I'm just not sure what to use.
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Mike, great work on the wheels. Hope your having some fun with it. The model is looking relly nice - your primer comming through in the interior is very well done.
Barrel wise you can't go past Armorscale - that's what I used. The Muzzle brakes screw off and on like the real deal and If you really want to make it a bad boy you can leave off the muzzle brake with the thread exposed.
Ian.
The model is looking relly nice - your primer comming through in the interior is very well done.Barrel wise you can't go past Armorscale - that's what I used. The Muzzle brakes screw off and on like the real deal and If you really want to make it a bad boy you can leave off the muzzle brake with the thread exposed.
Ian.
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
Wow, the brake actually screws on! Too cool!! Might have to find one of those! Thanks, Ian!!
Thanks James! I really need to conjure up a back story for this build, but that requires thought!
phantom II
Master at Arms
Hi Mike, I like the damaged road wheels. Can't imagine a tank in the field for any period of time and still having pretty wheels. Looking forward to some paint.
Cheers, Christian B)
Cheers, Christian B)
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
Thanks Chris! Paint?? I shot the lower hull last night, in preparation for the tracks. I used Model Air Tank Brown as a base color, then shot the Model Air Dark Yellow over it, leaving some random thin spots.
The sprockets were painted with some red oxide primer I had in the garage, followed by a layer of hairspray. I let the yellow set up about 15 minutes, then scrubbed the sprockets with a soft brush and warm water.
The other day, there was discussion about tracks and how to figure how many, so I decided to take some pictures of how I do Magic Tracks. This trick came from my good friend, Greg Metge, works every time!
Install all road wheels, sprockets and return rollers, this can be permanently with glue or temporary with blue tack. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the rollers, where the tracks will go.
This will be a little looser than the tracks will be, so if you want sag, you should be close. Tighter tracks may require adjustment later.
I then remove the tape and cut the tape so it will lay flat. I use my Binford 2000 track jig (a scrap piece of plywood or lumber), turning the tape sticky side up and tape down the ends.
Start laying out the links, positioning them along the edge of the tape to keep them straight.
When we get all the links positioned, grab the Testors Liquid Cement. It seems to hold the length together, remaining flexible without drying too fast. Liberally coat the length and set aside for about 20 minutes.
Carefully remove the links from the tape, you may find a few links that didn't get glued. Don't worry, you can add more glue and wait a few minutes to proceed.
Carefully thread the track over the sprocket, rollers and returns, mating up at the base of the run. If you're short, add a link or you can remove any extra. Check the tension or add your sag with cotton swabs between the fenders and the track. Adding glue to the tracks at the rollers will hold everything in place.
The whole assembly needs to dry overnight, but will hold together while you build the other side. How easy is that??
The sprockets were painted with some red oxide primer I had in the garage, followed by a layer of hairspray. I let the yellow set up about 15 minutes, then scrubbed the sprockets with a soft brush and warm water.
The other day, there was discussion about tracks and how to figure how many, so I decided to take some pictures of how I do Magic Tracks. This trick came from my good friend, Greg Metge, works every time!
Install all road wheels, sprockets and return rollers, this can be permanently with glue or temporary with blue tack. Wrap a piece of masking tape around the rollers, where the tracks will go.
This will be a little looser than the tracks will be, so if you want sag, you should be close. Tighter tracks may require adjustment later.
I then remove the tape and cut the tape so it will lay flat. I use my Binford 2000 track jig (a scrap piece of plywood or lumber), turning the tape sticky side up and tape down the ends.
Start laying out the links, positioning them along the edge of the tape to keep them straight.
When we get all the links positioned, grab the Testors Liquid Cement. It seems to hold the length together, remaining flexible without drying too fast. Liberally coat the length and set aside for about 20 minutes.
Carefully remove the links from the tape, you may find a few links that didn't get glued. Don't worry, you can add more glue and wait a few minutes to proceed.
Carefully thread the track over the sprocket, rollers and returns, mating up at the base of the run. If you're short, add a link or you can remove any extra. Check the tension or add your sag with cotton swabs between the fenders and the track. Adding glue to the tracks at the rollers will hold everything in place.
The whole assembly needs to dry overnight, but will hold together while you build the other side. How easy is that??
phantom II
Master at Arms
Hi Mike, those road wheels sure look good to my eyes. The chipped sprockets added to the overall appeal >
Cheers, Christian B)
Cheers, Christian B)
panzerace007
Active member
MIKE,
This is Lookin HOT !! Dragon has done a Great Job with Their re-vamped Stug III G series. I love 'em ! This is turning out Great !! Cool SBS on th Trax ! Great start to th Paint !!
This is Lookin HOT !! Dragon has done a Great Job with Their re-vamped Stug III G series. I love 'em ! This is turning out Great !! Cool SBS on th Trax ! Great start to th Paint !!
really nice work Mike, like it! but how do you paint the tracks with out messin' up the roadwheels and sprocket?
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
Remember I said you can install the road wheels and sprockets temporarily? If you glue the tracks to the wheels, you can pull everything back off to paint. I chose to paint my wheels and sprockets, knowing I'll have to touch up or mud up several places. I have brush painted the tracks, will need a little touch up. Pix to follow!
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Excellent technique. I'll use this next time I'm doing tracks.
Ian.:Hiay
Ian.:Hiay
