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Academy 1/32 F-16I SUFA

I have the weapon and fuel tank racks on the plane
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The plane is taped off for priming
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I am going to prime with the stabilizers off.
I am having a ridiculous time with the canopy. I tinted the front half with Tamiya Clear Yellow and Smoke like before, and it looked good; then the next day I dipped it in AK Gauzy Glass Coat and it made the tint crackle. I removed the tint by wet sanding. I don't know what will and will not hurt the clear plastic to try to use something to strip it off. I used Vallejo Yellow and Smoke this time, then dipped in Gauzy. It looks awful. So, I risked using alcohol to strip it since I know it removes acrylic paint but thought it may not harm the plastic. But it kept running through my mind "acrylic paint is just colorized clear liquid plastic, the canopy is some sort of clear plastic...eeeek". It worked out ok. Lots of elbow grease. The canopy is clean once again. Now I will go back and re-watch the Youtube video to see what I did wrong.
The plane is primed in gray so I can see what needs to be touched up as far as scratches and fouled panel lines before black base.
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So, I watched the video again. I have no idea why I continue to think I will remember how to do anything. Always watch the video. It is, in fact, in my Navy service record that I have a severe case if CRS, though they call it "Low Retention" to be nice about it. Fuuuuuuuudge....
 
Black basing has begun.
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I am going to do it a little differently this time. I am using Alclad II gloss black base. If someone will tell me what kind of metal these planes are made from I will use that for the marbling. Then seal it, then chipping medium, and finally the cammo. We'll see how it goes!
 
What does an F16 look like au natural?
This is what Wiki says.
I don't see a lot of photos out there, looks like some sim guys have made some skins that look like Century Series aircraft but that's not going to be correct. The wings and lot of the structure is composite material, not necessarily bare metal.
Here's a good shot

You know they are making them in Greenville at Donaldson Center, maybe stop in and see if you can get a tour. I'll bring bail money if it doesn't go well. :rotf
 
What does an F16 look like au natural?
This is what Wiki says.
I don't see a lot of photos out there, looks like some sim guys have made some skins that look like Century Series aircraft but that's not going to be correct. The wings and lot of the structure is composite material, not necessarily bare metal.
Here's a good shot

You know they are making them in Greenville at Donaldson Center, maybe stop in and see if you can get a tour. I'll bring bail money if it doesn't go well. :rotf
WTF? They are yellowish gold when unpainted? Now that's an eye opener and no mistake. Is that the epoxy lamination coating? Fiberglass maybe? What kind of metal is yellow? I gotta rethink the whole approach here.
 
Why are you wanting to do bare metal on this?
Two reasons. The metallic underpainting makes the paint I put on top look awesome, and also to do some chipping an have it revealed. I may be complicating things further than need be. I can use a Molotow marker to make the chipping, but this technique worked well on the 1/48 version, but I used Aluminum as the marbling. It just occurred to me, that may have been the wrong metal to use.
 
Might want to try dry brushing some metal on the finish, let me see if I can find the thread that Bob Letterman did this on.
 
Just one man’s opinion and nothing more, I’d suggest being careful with bare metal on a modern fighter. I suspect these things see meticulous maintenance and are scrupulously cared for. Dirt, oil streaks, dirty finger prints, foot prints I bet but not bare metal. As well, there’s so much composites on F-16’s it may be like doing metal prop chipping on a aircraft with a wood prop…if you catch my meaning?
however, all that aside, it’s your model and as such it is your canvas and you are the artist doing the masterpiece, I’m sure it will be perfect no matter what you decide
 
Just one man’s opinion and nothing more, I’d suggest being careful with bare metal on a modern fighter. I suspect these things see meticulous maintenance and are scrupulously cared for. Dirt, oil streaks, dirty finger prints, foot prints I bet but not bare metal. As well, there’s so much composites on F-16’s it may be like doing metal prop chipping on a aircraft with a wood prop…if you catch my meaning?
however, all that aside, it’s your model and as such it is your canvas and you are the artist doing the masterpiece, I’m sure it will be perfect no matter what you decide
Seeing all of that yellow, which I suspect is the composite material you speak of, makes me agree. I do like the way my paint looks over metallic finish, but will keep chipping to a bare minimum. I did that on the 1/48. Chipped a little around the canopy and the front of intakes. The weathering was the star on that plane. This one will be similar...I hope
 
These don't chip like WW2 aluminum aircraft Greg. Weathering, yes. Have a lot of paint chips showing bare metal and composites, no. Paints these days are much better than back then, and these planes get a LOT of maintenance.
 
These don't chip like WW2 aluminum aircraft Greg. Weathering, yes. Have a lot of paint chips showing bare metal and composites, no. Paints these days are much better than back then, and these planes get a LOT of maintenance.
That is extremely helpful. Thank you!
 
I finally worked on painting the cammo. My art carreer suddenly has taken a huge and unexpected upswing. It was utterly dead and I was fine with that as it gave me time for modeling. My wife submitted my painting to a "call to artists" after I told her not to and now I have three HUGE commissions for the local (and one not local) hospital. Plus 3 small commissions for the city. I have a custom fishing lure to paint, and a Halloween costume to make, all while moving the shop to the bomb shelter AND finding time to work on the plane. Lord help me! Here is the plane painted...
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I used the mixture of Tamiya Desert Sand I used on the previous F-16. The green and brown are Humbrol colors thinned with Xylene. They sprayed absolutely BEAUTIFULLY! That was unexpected. I had such control that there was no need for masking. I used my Iwata Eclipse HP-CS which sprayed the smallest line ever using the enamel. On to weathering and finishing the wheel bays...when I get the chance!
 
Greg, I used to use DioSol to thin my enamels. As that is no longer available and even the Testors thinners are no longer available (and were never my first choice) I switched to Xylene as well. It can damage the plastic if used full strength on the plastic, but isn't near as bad as say Lacquer Thinner. I have found that it works well with most enamels. I also never pour back thinned paint into the original containers. Instead I use the empty clear parts bubbles from the watch parts we get in repairing watches. I can put anywhere from a few drops to half an airbrush cup full in one, add thinner and mix well before pouring into the airbrush. As I have so many, if I end up with one that gets cruddy I pitch the mini cup.
 
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