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Hobby 2000 BF-109 E4 1/32 FINISHED

Looking ahead to the apparently "well documented" non fitting gun cover. Shame no on has done a "well documented" fix :)

So taping up one side in position

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And this then is the other side

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Now as panel lines go, this one wins a prize :) So whats gone wrong ?

Well if you take the gun platform and instrument consul out it fits pretty well

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It looks to me like the gun platform and because they are attached, the instrument panel are sitting high. That said they are sitting correctly , you can see here the location's on the fuselage sides with the panel located correctly.

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You can see here how the gun platform sits high, my guess is it should be flush with the fuselage sides ?

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There is also a pair of ledges for the platform to sit on which holds it high

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My plan is to remove these ledges above, remove the locators on the back of the instrument panel and see where that leaves me.
 
Today i bought another Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire MkIX....why you ask..you have one with an inch of dust on it already :) Well i remember it as a kit that goes together very well, has lots of detail and no headaches. I remember it being a pleasure to build ?
so i bought another to try and keep my sanity :)
 
Today i bought another Tamiya 1/32 Spitfire MkIX....why you ask..you have one with an inch of dust on it already :) Well i remember it as a kit that goes together very well, has lots of detail and no headaches. I remember it being a pleasure to build ?
so i bought another to try and keep my sanity :)
Yep, sometime you just have to get a Tamiya at and enjoy the hobby.
 
No Bob, its more serious than just the box, I have removed a lot of plastic already but it means re positioning the instrument panel which then fouls other parts but i think i am getting there, Will update later when i find the wind shield no longer fits :)
 
So a bit of success today
The general opinion on-line is to try and narrow the fuselage but i have gone a different route by removing nearly 1mm from everything the gun platform sits on, which is 3 pieces including the fuel tank the front firewall and the underside of the platform its self

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You also have to re seat the instrument panel lower on the back of the gun platform

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But you can see now the platform is flush with the fuselage side now.
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Its also allowed the sides to pull in now

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And the result is a near perfect fit of the cowling over the platform..

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or at least it will be when glued in place, shame really because it was obviously designed to be removable.....maybe i can get it so it still is ? The difference between it sitting loosely in the correct position and it being sprung to bit and held with glue is quite a bit.

anyway, onwards and a bit closer to having to do something with that engine..
 
It appears that HOBBY 2000 is an Eduard and Das Werk-like Polish-based company that markets somebody else's kit plastic and adds upgrades and different decals.

The Scalemates history suggests that you may actually be building the 2010 New-tool Cyberhobby 1/32 Me-109E-4 in Hobby 2000 livery.
Hobby 2000's 1/72 B-29 is the Academy tooling. Their 1/48 A-4E originated with Hasegawa. I'm wary of re-packagers like these.
 
So this is the first idea i have had for drilling a 0.5mm hole om a 1mm tube.......remind me why i am even contemplating this ????

This is a basic Dremel with a pin chuck and a 0.5mm drill in a Dremel drill stand.

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its almost impossible to just drill the hole i want given the crude set up i have. The drill is very flexible and wants to run off the side of the 1mm tube. but if i drill the hole in a 2.5mm tube its much easier. keeping the drill lined up with its hole and the vice bolted down i can then slide a 1mm tube into the 2.5 mm tube and drill the hole again this time the drill is guided by the 2,5mm tube wall thickness at the point it starts to drill the 1mm tube so the drill cant run off.

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this gives me a 0.5mm hole in the 1mm tube. If i keep everything tight and just slide the 1mm inside the 2.5mm a bit i can drill again and get a second hole etc

Next i need to try and stop the innertube being able to turn so the row of holes all line up and not pointing on different directions.....

Basically i need 2 tubes, 25mm long with 12x 0.5mm holes in a straight line.....
 
Well that's just smart!
When I bumped Der Rote baron reminds me of that ignition line I ran on it. Instead of drilling a hole I think I cut a hole with a file, like a V slot. This sounds so much easier.
 
So this is where i have got too

I managed to drill the holes in line by putting a spring clamp on the rod and using it as a support. with its handles on the table

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This one is a test run and you can se i missed hole in the middle :)

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the problem is i have the spacing wrong but this is a learning curve and i dont expect to get it right first time.... but when balanced together as below, i think i will get away with it.

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36 years as a tool maker paul, i have most of my tools but i dont have access to equipment anymore.
Ideally i would have taken a bit of square silver steel as its easier to hold square in a vice. drilled a 1mm hole through about 4mm from the top , intersected with a .5mm hole and hardened it. Alternatively done the same in any easy material like brass and and made a hardened bush for the .5mm hole. The only disadvantage of this method is you need a good drill or it will throw up a burgh and make the tube you are drilling dificult to slide in the jig.... and .5mm drills are hard to sharpen. As i say i dont have any equipment and its lucky a .5mm drill in alloy and brass is happy at Dremel speeds.
As my old boss used to say..."An engineer can do for a penny what any dam fool can do for a pound"

This is not going to add anything to the build TBH, its just something that i needed to do as i set my self the challenge. :)

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Awesome, Paddy. I would call you an over achiever but some how I don't think it comes up to your skill level.
 
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