Hiding bad fit is great about armor, building tracks is the price you pay. 
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Sd.Kfz.167 Stug IV (Italeri No. 6941)
- Thread starter Taor
- Start date
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
Friul tracks are great if you plan to have any sag in the tracks, but on tight runs like on a PzIII or IV, the Magic Tracks are really adequate (especially on a kit that doesn't fit well). The newer kits have fewer ejector marks to clean up and the detailing is very nice. As has been discussed many times, there are several methods for assembly of Magic Tracks, including the use of flexible cement. I have used rubber cement to assemble Magic Tracks, although I found the stringy legs from the cement caused a lot of clean up work. Wrapping a piece of masking tape around the sprocket, return rollers and road wheels then unwrapping it will help you determine the length of the track run.
Lay a piece of masking tape on a piece of wood or on your bench, sticky side up and start assembling tracks.
Once you have the run complete, use a liquid cement like Testors to coat the inside of the tracks. You want to use a "cooler" glue, so the drying time is slower since we are going to wrap the track run around the sprockets et al. After about 10 minutes, you can carefully pry up the track run from the tape. If you have any links that separate, add more glue and wait a couple more minutes. I generally give mine a shot of flat black paint as a base coat, using a fast drying rattle can spray, that provides a shadow for later layers of color.
Build the other run and repeat.
Wonderful stuff!
Dry brush some silver on the tracks to represent wear on the surfaces that contact the ground and you are there.
Good tunes and a few rest breaks are suggested. Hope this helps.
:drinks
Lay a piece of masking tape on a piece of wood or on your bench, sticky side up and start assembling tracks.
Once you have the run complete, use a liquid cement like Testors to coat the inside of the tracks. You want to use a "cooler" glue, so the drying time is slower since we are going to wrap the track run around the sprockets et al. After about 10 minutes, you can carefully pry up the track run from the tape. If you have any links that separate, add more glue and wait a couple more minutes. I generally give mine a shot of flat black paint as a base coat, using a fast drying rattle can spray, that provides a shadow for later layers of color.
Build the other run and repeat.
Wonderful stuff!
Dry brush some silver on the tracks to represent wear on the surfaces that contact the ground and you are there.
Good tunes and a few rest breaks are suggested. Hope this helps.
:drinks
reconron
Active member
Worth the effort that's for sure.
This is my first effort with metal tracks. My intention is to paint these ones. I did see some You Tube vids of fluids but can't remember the product name at the moment. But I will have a look at the product you mention. Is there any reason why one process would be better than the other or is it just personal pref ?
Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
Some seem to work better than others. The Ammo and the product from Uschi work better for me than Blacken It, I suppose it comes down to availability? Paint works well too, just sand off the tread surfaces to expose shiny metal after paint. 
B)
Here's a link to one very cool website.
http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/friul-burnishing/
B)Here's a link to one very cool website.
http://www.uschivdr.com/products-in-detail/friul-burnishing/
I'm finding things that have been in storage for over four years. The stumps were just in a box without any markings.That's a cool looking stump, who makes that?
