centaur567
Well-known member
Looks great!! Would you like some real desert sand for your base? I have some sand from the Jordan desert. Gary S.
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M3 Lee
- Thread starter moon puppy
- Start date
That would be great if you want to part with it. Of course someone would call me out, Jordan is not in the Sahara.
jknaus
Administrator
How do you know it doesnt identify as Saharan sand???That would be great if you want to part with it. Of course someone would call me out, Jordan is not in the Sahara.
that was insensitive of me wasn't it.How do you know it doesnt identify as Saharan sand???
Rhino
Super Moderator
Even at the Nationals, I saw lots of models that looked too dirty or worn out to function in combat. Realism seems to have taken a back seat to exhibiting trendy new techniques. Ads and videos from all over help modelers learn these shiny new procedures to sell their products. As model makers we LOVE the newest, coolest, kit or finish tricks and we buy. In the newest IPMS/USA Journal is an ad for Zoukei Miura's 1/32 FW-190 A4.I have a feeling that was aimed at me. ..
It looks like a BEAUTY! How many of us will purchase this exciting new, precise kit, while the vintage Hasegawa 1/32 FW-190 languishes in the stash closet? As a group, many of us fall for the newest coolest thing. Manufacturers know this.
No Greg, my friend, not aimed at just you. You do build with the most enthusiasm of anyone I know. Every box checked. No detail left to the imagination. An Artist and a Model maker. Your Scouts bear this out. You funking amaze me!
@paddy I don't know if you had this trouble on her rear end but I had to get some alignment enforcement tools out.
The red pipes I think are for the fuel system, the only attachment point is that valve attaching to the carb, everthing else is just hanging there. A positive location pin on the inside of the rear wall could fix this better. There was about a .5mm gap on the left hand side, I really have no idea why. I'm leaving the clamps in place overnight.
Dirty engine compartment.
The red pipes I think are for the fuel system, the only attachment point is that valve attaching to the carb, everthing else is just hanging there. A positive location pin on the inside of the rear wall could fix this better. There was about a .5mm gap on the left hand side, I really have no idea why. I'm leaving the clamps in place overnight.
Dirty engine compartment.
centaur567
Well-known member
It might take me a few days to get the sand in the mail. I'm also including some dirt from Bastone and some pebbles from Stoumont, Belgium. I used some of the dirt for my Sherman base and some of the dirt and pebbles to make a wall for my Stug III. They are both 1/48th scale Bandai kits. Gary S.
paddy
Well-known member
I had the same problem ( and fix) Bob. I cant remember exactly now but getting the back panel in was like half wanted to butt up to the outside and half wanted to be recessed if that makes sense ? i seem to remember trimming something to fit. I remember commenting at the time that the body was a dozen parts and each located on the previous so get one out of position and the rest would all be out of position which showed with mine when i came to fit the top panel that the turret sat on especially above the side gun pod. I had planned to make the top panel removable so you could see inside but it wouldn't sit correctly without being clamped and glued.
I remember commenting at the time that the body was a dozen parts and each located on the previous so get one out of position and the rest would all be out of position which showed with mine when i came to fit the top panel that the turret sat on especially above the side gun pod. I had planned to make the top panel removable so you could see inside but it wouldn't sit correctly without being clamped and glued.
Thanks Paddy, glad I'm not alone on this. I think the engine mounting beam is a bit wide, I had to wedge it in pretty good, I think its acting as a spreader. You can see a bit of a gap on the air intake on the LHS where the tube doesn't mate naturally with the air box. There's enough play to push it together but I really think there was the issue. I should have trimmed that a bit before this stage.
Short???Excellent work Boss! You sure are making short work of the kit.
Well I got ahead of myself. I should have been paying attention to the air intake system. I modeled per the instructions with the air boxes on the inside of the engine compartment but Lullubelle had the external boxes with duck bill exhaust. I have the parts for the most part salvaged off version 2, but the intake plumbing is wrong, now I have the rear plate installed I can't change that out.
I haven't looked at the PE yet, there's a screen that would be over the top of the door opening. I can install the air cleaners and just leave the inside closed up. Maybe just have the rear door open.
I haven't looked at the PE yet, there's a screen that would be over the top of the door opening. I can install the air cleaners and just leave the inside closed up. Maybe just have the rear door open.
Working on the screen of the engine compartment. Found there is absolutely nothing to attach it to. I built a frame out of some scraps.
Painted black and probably never seen again.
Painted black and probably never seen again.
Tool box? Top Rail? so more issues coming my way? I really do think it boils down to the width of the engine mounting beam. Almost want to build another just to prove it. 
paddy
Well-known member
A top rail
B tool box
right side gutted up perfectly
Left side gapped
the same as mine...this from the text on my build
Added some ammo boxes over the weekend and got the rear panel fitted with the aid of a G-clamp and some tough persuasion
it really didn't want to fit,
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I got DefModels tool box and barrels, I'll put the tool box together to see if it makes a difference.
Thinking about it, I had problem getting that left side sponson lined up, wonder if the issue goes back to that.
I see in the Sahara branded kit they have the square air cleaners and duck bill exhaust ports, as well as the grouser boxes. I've asked Miniart if they would sale those sprues.
Thinking about it, I had problem getting that left side sponson lined up, wonder if the issue goes back to that.
I see in the Sahara branded kit they have the square air cleaners and duck bill exhaust ports, as well as the grouser boxes. I've asked Miniart if they would sale those sprues.
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Miniart will not sell me those specific sprues. They will replace damaged ones if I have bought the kit. Not buying another Lee...yet.
