So, now I have arrived at a key point in the Mk3 production history, where the next model to come out, the J, was the most prolific and became the final platform (with only a few changes in small details for the M and N models), I will divert slightly.
During the J model production the Wermacht found themselves embroiled in their worst nightmare, Stalingrad, in late 1942. Hitler wanted a quick solution to the street fighting, with house to house combat stalling their normal 'Blitzkrieg success. The solution for quick building demolition was provided by the manufacturer Alkett - the
sIGG 33.
sIGG 33 15CM
This special mobile 15cm Howitzer was provided on a Stug 3 F chassis which was basically a mix of details between the H, J and M features. The Stug 3 was steadily becoming the future of the Mk3 design, which was Less than 12 months away from being cancelled in favour of the tank destroyer. The sIGG 33 'sported' the typical features of the late Stug D-F8 chassis with late model drive and sprocket wheels and added bolt on armour but had the tools on the guards moved around to accomodate the large armoured box that accomodated the 15cm and crew.
The surviving vehicles(I think mostly from the second batch delivery of 12 because they did not get issued until after the encirclement) were redirected in April 1943 to a new unit Pz.Rgt.201 in the 23 Panzer division.
These all seemed to have been repainted in tri color cammo, while the 1942 pics seem to show a dark grey base but it gets hard to tell with winter cammo.
I do like this one though running the 'Winterketten' track. I will most probably model something similar to this.
Some other interesting aspects are that these vehicles were a real 'frankenstein mix of early 1941-2 Stug parts, Mk3 J parts and later model Mk3 M parts, which was due for imminent release within a few months. Always fun to model these kinds of projects.
The Model
I got a good deal on an old DMl kit and grabbed this rather than one of the updated smart kits. These kits have become so expensive that I am tending to steer away at twice the price now than they were when I bought most of my original stash. Down here in OZ that spells $120.00 AUS.
So I knew this one was going to need more 'love' than usual but was confident as the base kit is a good solid, simple kit and I have plenty of spare parts from all my DML '2 in 1' Smart kits to handle it.
The Chassis is pretty good in this kit which includes the scolloping along the top for the later models and individual torsion bar axles(though a bit thick). The scalloping was left off the initial runs, as they were a direct purchase of the Gunze Sangyo Mk3 N kit from the 90's. The original also had molded axles on the chassis. They decided to upgrade some of the details but most of the kit is 'soft' in the details area compared to their later versions that came out in 2008 and beyond.
I had my spare parts from the later kits ready as well as a Bronco Stug 3D doner kit.
I replaced the shock absorbers with a spare set of the late model ones as the early kit versions were very 'soft' and very 'ordinary'. I lived with the swing arms, as they would be behind the wheels anyway. I needed to sand-off the mark for the escapre hatch as the sIGG 33 used the later simplified chassis that deleted these. I still need to check on whether the scalloping went as well - if so mud will solve that!
I used a doner front plate from my Bronco Stug 3(yellow) as it had much better detail and depicted the later version. The old DML kit piece was not nearly as good and depicted a slightly earlier variant that had the smaller hinges - I wanted detail. The same went for the added, bolt-on frontal armor. The later DML J kits always give you a spare Stug sprue which has this bolt on armor depicted in beautiful detail, so I adapted the newer front plate lower by using the original as a guide for the tow pintle cut-outs. The upper plate I kept original but cut off the bolts and transferred some from a spare late DML plate; the reason being the other detail present.
The Bronco kit is constructed differently so I needed to cut a strip from a doner Stug front plate and add this at the back. I had plenty of spares.
The lower plate was still coming up short and some weld bead detail was needed as well.
to be continued.......