James you see where the primer is boiling up, I'm going to have to strip it down, clean again and try again.
It's glossy because it was still wet when I shot the photo.
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Spirit of St Louis build thread
- Thread starter moon puppy
- Start date
James you see where the primer is boiling up, I'm going to have to strip it down, clean again and try again.
It's glossy because it was still wet when I shot the photo.
Swordsman
Active member
Not to tell you how to paint MP but to me it looks too thick .... a trouble with the rattle can .... and like it was sprayed too close ..... the trouble with the rattle can is you can't control how much or the speed at which the paint comes out .... so it looks like the pits & bubbles are a impact like a meteor striking the surface ..... just My observation ..... 
ldguy
ldguy
ij001
Well-known member
OK just to (politely) weigh-in on this.
Tamiya Plastic Primer in a Rattle-Can:
I use it all the time and never have had a single issue with it. Shake for around twenty-to-thirty seconds, keep shaking between passes. Passes around fifteen-to-twenty cms from the target in (best described), in broad swathes, press the 'tit' before you arrive at the target to avoid 'build-up' and 'lumps'. Settles into a satin finish and touch dry in ten mins. Ready to gently sand back with Auto Finishing grade wet'n dry paper the following day. Always use lots of water.
To my eye, (and Swordsman already mentioned it), Bob, you were too close, just let it 'go off' for a day and gently sand it back. Try the 'broad swathes' approach it should work for you. Safety Note:I always spray in the open air, this stuff will knock you on your a*se if you try to apply it indoors, and the particles will attach themselves to everyting.
HTH
Ian.
Tamiya Plastic Primer in a Rattle-Can:
I use it all the time and never have had a single issue with it. Shake for around twenty-to-thirty seconds, keep shaking between passes. Passes around fifteen-to-twenty cms from the target in (best described), in broad swathes, press the 'tit' before you arrive at the target to avoid 'build-up' and 'lumps'. Settles into a satin finish and touch dry in ten mins. Ready to gently sand back with Auto Finishing grade wet'n dry paper the following day. Always use lots of water.
To my eye, (and Swordsman already mentioned it), Bob, you were too close, just let it 'go off' for a day and gently sand it back. Try the 'broad swathes' approach it should work for you. Safety Note:I always spray in the open air, this stuff will knock you on your a*se if you try to apply it indoors, and the particles will attach themselves to everyting.
HTH
Ian.
Thanks guys, this is probably the only rattle can I even have. I'll give it a day or two and sand it down and see what's next. Thanks!
ausf
Master at Arms
I wash everything in water and Simple Green. It's the perfect solvent for mold releases used in injection or silicone molding. Windex should have taken care of it as well, but if there was a lot of excess mold release, you would have seen some texturing in the recesses of the model, so I doubt that's your issue.
That said, even high quality resin can leach oils if the components are not mixed before they are combined. That's just as if not more important than the actual mix, especially with MDI urethanes.
Did you get a sickly sweet smell when you cut off the casting gates?
That said, even high quality resin can leach oils if the components are not mixed before they are combined. That's just as if not more important than the actual mix, especially with MDI urethanes.
Did you get a sickly sweet smell when you cut off the casting gates?
No, but I haven't been feeling 100% lately, can I blame it on that?
There's been very little clean up with this kit, just some light sanding over the gates to get things evened up.
Did more than sand, I stripped the wing. Takes nasty stuff to get off nasty stuff. Opened the garage door and turned on the fans. So I got it stripped down to resin and cleaned it again with windex. Took the rattle can again and it did the same damn thing. I tossed the can, wiped off the primer and got out Mr. Surfacer and airbrushed it.
I got an idea about shadow and highlights I'm going to try. Maybe some pictures after that.
I got an idea about shadow and highlights I'm going to try. Maybe some pictures after that.
Sherman 18
Master at Arms
Did that happen in the some place? If that is the case I would say to much mold release before resin was poured. :hmmm
Do you wear gloves? I do not and sometimes get that with my fingers.
Cockpit is :drool
Do you wear gloves? I do not and sometimes get that with my fingers.
Cockpit is :drool
I haven't had a problem with the square jar line of primers, just this damn rattle can. 
Old Dog
Well-known member
Well if the Mr. Surfacer went down OK the problem must have been the rattle can. I have never used the Tamiya stuff but have had other products in cans behave strangely like beading up or fish eyes. Perhaps some manufacturing contamination or maybe the can was subjected to freezing temperatures at some point. Anyway glad you got things straightened out. Build looks great so far
Thanks for the comments guys, Gary I agree, must be something with the can. Doubt it froze at...wait, we did go 2 days without power. :facepalm
Took a snap this AM
I'm happy. :dude
Another coat to clean up what was sanded cleaning up some spots and then move on.
Took a snap this AM
I'm happy. :dude
Another coat to clean up what was sanded cleaning up some spots and then move on.
Either preshade or the less known Zebra pattern camo that no one ever talked about on the Spirit.
there will be a gloss coat over this then the Dull Aluminum.
there will be a gloss coat over this then the Dull Aluminum.
