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Interactive figure painting by Bob and Laura!

Laura, if you were to do a Mediterranean skin tone, you know like maybe someone from Greece how would you change your skin tone palette?
Second question is have you ever used pre mixed flesh as a base or do you always mix your own?
Thanks.
James
 
Viper_MP wrote:
Who needs German figures.

i do beg your pardon?

jknaus wrote:
Laura, if you were to do a Mediterranean skin tone, you know like maybe someone from Greece how would you change your skin tone palette?

add more of the dark ochre to the self mixed flesh color!

jknaus wrote:
Second question is have you ever used pre mixed flesh as a base or do you always mix your own?

when i started painting figures i used pre mixed flesh colors! when i started using oils i stopped to work with those pre mixed piggy pink flesh tones and i always mix them myself to my demands!

bob - the color for the coverall looks fine to me but the raincoat is plain wrong and - sorry - ugly! forget about the coat until we finished the coverall and flesh tones! we will focus on the coat separately! just let the color dry over the days while we progress with the rest of the figures and then we will paint it in the correct tone! haste brings waste!

from now on we will follow the bob ross rules of painting:

- we don't make mistakes here, we just have happy little accidents!
- only thin paint sticks to thick paint! if you paint thick color on thick color all you get is mud!
- it's your world and you decide how your world looks! we don't care what others say! (that refers to the contrasts of lights and shadows with your figures! you decide how strong the contrasts will be!)

now it's time to add the first shadows to the coverall! add some black (like i did - i was lazy!) or some grey to the green color! not too much, you want a darker tone of the base color and will have to add a darker tone when you do the second set of shadows later!

take a thin brush and apply the shadow color (do not forget to thin this color - dip your brush in the turpentine should be enough) to all recesses! then take one of your blender brushes and with a poking motion (do not overdo it! don't use too much force! be careful!) blend them into the base color! what you do is to push the color into the recesses! ok?

since you have painted the body bits only i will upload the body/uniform pics only at the moment!

uniformshadow1_20091226_1681191322.jpg


after blending:

shadowblended1_20091226_1084362514.jpg
 
I see, OK I'll give it a shot. Internet was just restored and I'm catching up on stuff, haven't had time today to do anything modeling wise...thought I was suppose to have off work this week...
 
That looks fine Mike, remember work at Laura's direction so we both have homework due before we get our next lesson.
 
[/quote]


LOL. No offense intended. When I got into armor I swore I would only do US armor. Well, over half of my armor is now German and 99% of my figures are German.[/quote]

How much Olive Drab and Khaki can one guy have, anyway???
 
Iron Mike wrote:
Can I play too??

IMG_2008-1.jpg


Careful, Comrade! My stick is loaded!

The only suggestion I would make about Mr. Stick Master :unsure: would be to use a base of very dark grey for a uniform that is black. The method is to place shadows and highlights on a base color. And it is kind of hard to put shadows on something that is black :S .

And for the same reason a white winter uniform should get a base of very light grey for the same but opposite reason.

HTH

Gary B)
 
Ah, this is only the black primer that the school marm directed. Haven't added anything to it yet.
 
we wait until someone has uploaded his pictures of the flesh tones basepaint and first shades of the coverall! until then nothing will happen from my side!
 
Kreighshoer wrote:
we wait until someone has uploaded his pictures of the flesh tones basepaint and first shades of the coverall! until then nothing will happen from my side!

Yes Mam' Cindy has taken all parties on a after Christmas shopping spree and I have the compound to myself and the dogs today. Just have to haul the trash off and I'm getting to work ASAP! will post pictures this evening.
 
OK, first problem.
Laura you kept talking about making the layers thin, OK. When I started applying my flesh mix I notice it was going on thick, looking like a Van Gogh with thick brush strokes. So I loaded up a bit more stinky turpentine to wash it down a bit, didn't flood it but the stinky turpentine attacked the base coat to the point of removing it down to the resin.

alpine008_20091228_1655937188.jpg

you can see it around his cheeks. I do not plan on using this head so it's no big deal, just wanted to point this out and get your take on it. Is this an expected result?

alpine007_20091228_1331627239.jpg

Here's the two good heads, still thin to the point you can see the undercoat, is this correct?

alpine009_20091228_2006727986.jpg

And here is the shading exercise, may be too light of shading, let me know, I can blend in some more and go darker.

Mike where's your homework?
 
I just got home and got a bite to eat, probably won't get much done until later this week. :(
 
second try! i had my answer done and ready and all was lost! gna!

green hair? :blink vincent i wonder what you had as meal and ask myself where i can get that stuff! :blink

moon puppy wrote:
So I loaded up a bit more stinky turpentine to wash it down a bit, didn't flood it but the stinky turpentine attacked the base coat to the point of removing it down to the resin.

doesn't surprise me! the 'stinky' turpentine is for stripping the colors and for cleaning the brush! the only turpentine you use with the figures is the odorless and never directly on the painted surfaces!

if ever you notice you have too much color applied, take a second, clean brush without any thinning agent and tear the surplus color away with it!

it's no big deal to repair this 'happy little accident' (you remember that i also had such a 'happy little accident' on the very last steps with one of the heads i'm sitting at? i wasn't too happy!)

just try to apply little amount of undiluted paint over the cheeks and you should be back in game! try something like drybrushing - drybrushing is applying minimum of paint also!

moon puppy wrote:
Here's the two good heads, still thin to the point you can see the undercoat, is this correct?

we can go on from this point!

moon puppy wrote:
And here is the shading exercise, may be too light of shading, let me know, I can blend in some more and go darker.

i had to search them!

more shades! much, much more! remember, this is the first set of shades followed by a sencond set of darker shades than the first ones!

apply the shade color to ALL recesses and blend them more! your result is too hard edged! poking the brush and waggling until you are satisfied will do the job! push the color in the recesses and let the hard edges vanish!

to the heads - i applied dark ochre to all areas that in my eyes need a darker tone: eye caves, nostrils, hair line, ears, behind the ears, between the lips, between underlip and chin, under the chin, cheeks! wherever you want the shades you apply your shadow color!

before blending:

faces2_20091229_1069650943.jpg


after:

faces6_20091229_1136911136.jpg
 
Okay, so you just add a small dab of ochre to where shadows would be and then stipple it in? Also I noticed you havent started eyes yet. Do you leave that to last ?
Thanks and I'm enjoying this sbs very much.
James
 
OK, I'm with you. I'll do some more shading on the uniform and add some shades to the faces.

I take it we're not worried about the overcoats not being correct color yet, I want to take them to that khaki color more than green, but still starkly different than the fatigues.
 
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