E-Type jag, Scale = big.

I wish it was stickier Bob it seems to lift very easily. As i have to do the blue first i wonder if you can clear coat the BMF with the Blue or whether it will bead on the foil of just kill the shine .

I've read where some have used diluted white glue to make it more sticky.

Looking great Paddy!

A few seams that need removing but basically the shell is not to bad. Remember thuis kit is 62 years old !!!



Pictures are great for showing up bits you missed like right at the top of the seam.

Shame the tail doesnt open but its not worth trying to open it up,

"Old Tricks are the Best Tricks." It is good to see an expert's take on the vintage Monogram kit!

Man, some of you photos look like reference photos of the real thing. Nicely done sir!

10 days since i looked at this so i decided to put some paint on the shell, really because i learned when i did the hood that it takes 2 weeks to go hard, sure it touch dry in 2 hours and pretty much there in 2 days but if you want to flat it and polish it it needs 2 weeks to go glass hard.

the dust has settled on it, its not in the paint

Might look at starting something else while this goes hard...

I am watching this quite closely Paddy. Years ago I was given one of these that is partially built. (Monogram yellow body) Not even sure if it is all there. Have thought about pitching it, giving it away, etc. With what you have been doing I might try and rip it down a bit and build it up right.

Oooo....Pretty!!!!

This week i have been trying to tidy up my paintwork
For reference what i have found is..
However careful i am i cant cut back the paint to get a gloss finish like i can spray from a can.
So i sprayed a finish on the roof and there was on spec of dust, i flattened the area with 3000 wet/dry then 9000 wet dry then used Tamiya fine and finishing polish but couldn't get the same gloss as the surrounding areas sprayed from the can.
the finish was good on on its own would have been very useable but not next to the from the can finish.
The problem then is the body is quite large and you must get a finish gloss cost all over on all sides at the same time because if you dont then you will have over spray if you pay a second visit and i cant polish over spray back to match the from the can finish.

Secondly i sprayed the doors and gave them a gloss clear coat then found that finish was a whole shade darker than the rest of the car so then had to gloss clear the rest to match

Anyway i have gone as far as i intend to go with this. , because the areas are so large one small spec sticks out like a sore thumb so at some point you have to call it done. It will be much easier on a more sensible scale like 1/12 or 1/24. glad i have experimented though as i feel i can do better next time now i know what i am doing.






#I have also been experimenting with Humbrol spray chrome and Molotow pen refill chrome.



Not much to choose to be honest
Humbrol would be way better for larger areas but Molotow, as its decanted into an airbrush is much more controllable for fine detail, precision spraying is what i am trying to say.

Both are very good, both are very expensive but with careful use both will last a long time and could complete many models, dozens in fact even at 1/8 scale.

I also received some sticky back fine felt today, bit like the baize of a well worn pool table but in cream which i hope will do for a roof lining.

This turning out to be a really trick build, the scale makes it very easy to see the smallest of mistakes.....

Well worth the effort, shiny!

The Jag's roof is so shiny, you almost took a picture of yourself! The paint looks absolutely outstanding from not quite 4,100 miles away!

Masking, miles of it and chrome spray (molotow)











Next problem will be the rather thick and scratched windows....

The Humbrel silver #11 in the small cans is very shiney right out of the can with a small brush. Gary S.

centaur567 said:

The Humbrel silver #11 in the small cans is very shiney right out of the can with a small brush. Gary S.

Click to expand...

Now you tell'em....

You got to be pleased with that Paddy!

Those of you who have followed any of my builds know i tell it like it is

I was forewarned about the glass issues here but i wasnt prepared for the wind shield to be so small it doesnt even fill the width of the aperture.



What really annoys me is this kit has been produced on and off for 62 years, this is the latest run from 2024 and they still haven't fixed a mistake so bad that it completely spoils the kit
Its not just that the glass is totally the wrong shape for its recess and approx 8mm, 4mm each side too narrow, , it that so many other parts depend on this being right in particular the dash board.

I will bash on with this having come so far but its never going to be something you would be proud to put on the shelf.

One of the original tooling's sins, to be sure. That will frustrate a guy.
Does Humbrol Clearfix fill gaps like that?

And no one has created an aftermarket for this? Can we do 3D print in clear yet? @jknaus

moon puppy said:

And no one has created an aftermarket for this? Can we do 3D print in clear yet? @jknaus

Click to expand...

I am always looking around for info and other builds for the 32 inch Millennium Falcon build of mine that is stalled. Ran across this the other day. It is a part that is the back wall of the alcove in the far left corner of the main hold. This is a printed part, as you can see in the first photo. Quite clear, though I am not sure how transparent it is nor how well this would work for a large wind shield.

Thanks Paul
I will make do with what i have, the rest of the model doesnt really warrant any real effort
Its far less noticeable from the outside so will live with it.