Tamiya word of warning

[jknaus]

So I bought a bunch of new to me Tamiya products. 3 different decal solutions I have not yet tried and Tamiya Airbrush Cleaner. I assumed it was water based but have learned no it is not. It is 51% acetone and 49% n-butyl acetate and reeks. Managed to get a slight headache from it and so it will probably never be used again except for something really bad and then outside. Giving this warning just in case someone wants to try it and cant handle the fumes. Unfortunately after many years of JP-4, JP-5 and JP-8 along with other stuff I can not tolerate this.
JAmes

 

[Iron Mike]

If there's a flame symbol on the the label, it ain't water based. Open a window or use a respirator if in doubt.

 

[jknaus]

If there's a flame symbol on the the label, it ain't water based. Open a window or use a respirator if in doubt.

That would be okay if the picture from the online store showed a flame symbol but it didnt. As I've used a lot of different cleaners I didnt bother reading the instructions not that they say much. And as I mentioned if I ever use it again it will be outside.

 

[ausf]

Yeah, Tamiya acrylics are ether based, they paint great, but I just wasn't into the fumes anymore.

Acrylic is a broad stroke, not necessarily water based although we generally tend to think of them as.

It took a bit of an adjustment to get water based acrylics like Vallejo to work as well, but it was worth it. They are every bit as good if applied properly, just not as forgiving in terms of getting there. Same with lacquers IMO, there's a price to pay for ease of use. I've been airbrushing a long time now, but I honestly learned a bunch in the past two weeks or so correcting problems I didn't know I had until I started using the microscope.

 

[Sharkmouth]

I've been airbrushing a long time now, but I honestly learned a bunch in the past two weeks or so correcting problems I didn't know I had until I started using the microscope.

OK, now I am curious!

Regards,

 

[ausf]

Mostly needle size.

I have three Iwatas, ranging from the AH at 2mm up to the TH at 5mm. I always used them for the size of the model, not the paint an project. So when I went to prime the 1/35 heads, I grabbed the small HP-AH for the quick color change. Very thin Vallejo ploy primer, shot it light, very wet coats like I've always been doing. When I went to paint, I saw the texture of the figure. It looked like it had measles on top of hives while sitting in a pool of ice water. I've heard people complain in the past regarding those primers being 'pebbly' and I even ordered the ridiculously expensive Mission Models primer to use on these. But while waiting on it, I looked into the problem and it was mainly nozzle size. Yes, size does matter. I was even thinking about a Harder and Steenback 2 in 1 CR brush. But I tested a few methods and using the giant HP-TH without the color cup, it's as quick a change as the AH and the 5mm needle passes a very fast wet coat, and at about 8-10 PSI, no pebbles.

I also skipped primer on a few tests and on faces where you're not going to be handling it, if you gi

Another trick I'm sure everyone knew but me, to never take your finger off the air, let the needle seat again after spraying and use the air to dry the paint before adding more. Plus it is supposed to clear the chamber lessening the chance of paint buildup.

Although I'm still eyeballing a H&S.

 

[Sharkmouth]

Mostly needle size.
... But I tested a few methods and using the giant HP-TH without the color cup, it's as quick a change as the AH and the 5mm needle passes a very fast wet coat, and at about 8-10 PSI, no pebbles.

So the larger needle size did a better job? Great to know! Looks like I can use a tutorial...

Regards,

 

[Iron Mike]

I changed the needle and nozzle in my Iwata Eclipse to the .5 and it is way better.

 

[jeaton01]

I always gauge the needle (orifice, really) by the viscosity of the paint. The heavier the paint the larger the orifice. Always seemed logical to me and could be wrong.

 

[ausf]

So the larger needle size did a better job? Great to know! Looks like I can use a tutorial...

Regards,

It did a better job moving that primer. The AH at 2mm still does a great job with thinned Vallejo color.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Lately I have been using my Sotar 20/20 slim a LOT! It has an extra fine tip somewhere around that fine size. I got tired to poking myself with the needle sticking out and put a fine air nozzle from my Krome on it. Same threads and nozzle diameter, it just has 2 guards sticking out and is easier to handle and remove.
Left a little paint in it the other night and had to do a complete break down and clean, but it turned out to be fairly easy.