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Tamiya North American P-51D Mustang 8th AF

moon puppy said:
has the paint cured? Did you have a top coat on what you had before? I'm baffled how this happened.
Click to expand...
The paint has cured for about four days. I sprayed a coat of Future on top. and it dried for a couple days while I finished up the Warthog. I can't explain it either. 3 year old Griffin can't talk so he can't tell me LOL. While I have you here...you read how I had the finish prepared for decals. When I tried to use Tamiya Markfit, the solution beaded up like crazy. So, I thought that Microscale Microset would work better. It beaded up as well. I used Vallejo Decal Set and it worked beautifully, It's a little more of a cream than a clear liquid. "Should" those other two have beaded up? Should I use something else to prepare for decals than Future? Should I give up trying to apply decals and send it to you to do it for me? It drives me nuts how much decals hate me.
 
They tell me I didn't talk till I was 4, with 4 brothers and sisters I couldn't get a word in edgewise.

yeah the solution could bead up, first time I did a solvent based decal solution I was not execting the decal to shrivel up like it did, I just walked away from it and let it do it's thing.
 
moon puppy said:
They tell me I didn't talk till I was 4, with 4 brothers and sisters I couldn't get a word in edgewise.

yeah the solution could bead up, first time I did a solvent based decal solution I was not execting the decal to shrivel up like it did, I just walked away from it and let it do it's thing.
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Any idea what the font name is? I found something similar, but am not sure.
 
Sharkmouth said:
You don't have a Hobby Lobby nearby? They stock the 72nd scale Airfix kit at an extremely low price of $9.99USD and even less with their frequent 40% off sales. I have scored several for only $5.99USD each.
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It is about an hours drive, but it could be worth it.
 
Microset almost always beads up on a good gloss surface, MicroSol softens the decal and should go on top, not underneath. I have sanded gloss surfaces with 2500 sandpaper and the MicroSet flows out better.
 
jeaton01 said:
Microset almost always beads up on a good gloss surface, MicroSol softens the decal and should go on top, not underneath. I have sanded gloss surfaces with 2500 sandpaper and the MicroSet flows out better.
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Great! Yeah, I put the solvent on top. I use the set solution underneath AND on top and let it dry for a few minutes then put the solvent on. Is that correct?
 
Greg, is this what you need?
20230130_210020.jpg
 
I think the Micro SET solution is a wetting agent with a little bit of a bonder. The Micro SOL solution is what softens the decals.

I personally like Solvaset. It is a little hotter than the Micro brand and can do a number on thin decals if you are not careful. I will mix it about 50/50 with water for under the decal, and then once the decal is placed, I have used my airbrush with about 5 psi to lightly spray it on the top. This does 2 things when starting from the center it softens the decal and pushes the water/solution/air bubbles out from underneath. I have done this over dead flat paint with no silvering.

BTW, I hate dealing with decals.
 
Heavens Eagle said:
I think the Micro SET solution is a wetting agent with a little bit of a bonder. The Micro SOL solution is what softens the decals.

I personally like Solvaset. It is a little hotter than the Micro brand and can do a number on thin decals if you are not careful. I will mix it about 50/50 with water for under the decal, and then once the decal is placed, I have used my airbrush with about 5 psi to lightly spray it on the top. This does 2 things when starting from the center it softens the decal and pushes the water/solution/air bubbles out from underneath. I have done this over dead flat paint with no silvering.

BTW, I hate dealing with decals.
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Never thought of using an airbrush to spray it on! Genius.
 
Greg Kimsey said:
Never thought of using an airbrush to spray it on! Genius.
Click to expand...
I will reiterate, VERY VERY LOW AIR PRESSURE!!!!!!! I also start spraying about 2 1/2 to 3 inches out and bring it in slowly to the center of the decal. I had it blow a decal up away from the model one time. Luckily the decal had not softened yet and I was able to quickly correct the situation with some water.
Mo_ said:
PM me your address and I will get it in the mail.
Click to expand...
And this is one of the wonderful things about being a part of MA!


Oh and edit to add this. I also use a needle valve to regulate the air pressure right at the airbrush. Gives a lot more control than just the moisture trap control on the compressor.

I use Badger airbrushes with a Badger/Paasche adapter, Paasche needle valve, and Paasche hoses with a moisture trap about 18 inches from the airbrush.
Airbrushes with airflow needle valves.jpg


Badger 20-20 with airhose.jpg


Hope this helps. The needle valve makes a huge difference even just for spraying paint or much anything else. My regulator is set at I think 25 psi, but the needle valve is where I actually control the air flow.
 
Last edited:
Heavens Eagle said:
I will reiterate, VERY VERY LOW AIR PRESSURE!!!!!!! I also start spraying about 2 1/2 to 3 inches out and bring it in slowly to the center of the decal. I had it blow a decal up away from the model one time. Luckily the decal had not softened yet and I was able to quickly correct the situation with some water.

And this is one of the wonderful things about being a part of MA!


Oh and edit to add this. I also use a needle valve to regulate the air pressure right at the airbrush. Gives a lot more control than just the moisture trap control on the compressor.

I use Badger airbrushes with a Badger/Paasche adapter, Paasche needle valve, and Paasche hoses with a moisture trap about 18 inches from the airbrush.
View attachment 156852

View attachment 156853

Hope this helps. The needle valve makes a huge difference even just for spraying paint or much anything else. My regulator is set at I think 25 psi, but the needle valve is where I actually control the air flow.
Click to expand...
Well I'll be darned. Where does one acquire such a contraption?
 
Gotta question I should already know the answer to, but, after I get the decal from MO, what is my next step? I would, had I not asked, spray a nice matter acrylic finish over everything in prep for oil weathering. Izzat right? Will that help keep the decals from silvering like Bob noticed on my Warthog.
 
Don't think any paint overcoat will help silvering, they will only make it show up worse. You have to make sure no air gets trapped under the clear areas.
 
jeaton01 said:
Don't think any paint overcoat will help silvering, they will only make it show up worse. You have to make sure no air gets trapped under the clear areas.
Click to expand...
So that is what causes it? I have been trying to press a little harder with a Kimwipe tonight while putting the rest of the decals on.
 
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