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T 34 'ChTZ' version

Re: T 34 and German trench

Hi folks,

Forgot to show you the tank before I removed AK Worn Effects,as you see I didn't apply the white wash in an even solid coat.If you cover the tank's whitewash on on some not so solid layers partially,you can remove it better.

uschi_1.jpg



Tracks with the burnishing agent from Uschi vd Rosten.
Now let me tell you what I like about that and what I DON'T! :vmad

uschi_2.jpg


As I was going for a very rusty look,the inside is just ok for me.
But look at the outside of the tracks...the burnishing agent didn't catch the recessed smaller areas of the tracks! :vmad

Tell you what I did.
I put the Uschi stuff in a bowl got the tracks in and used a brush with stiff hairs on the tracks and covered EVERYTHING,with the tracks covered with the fluid inside the bowl.Worked on the tracks for about maybe 1 hour.
The fluid just DIDN'T work on the recessed smaller areas...what have I done wrong? :hmmm

By the way,have a look at how dirty the clear blue fluid gets,...yes it WAS blue.
After I did the 2 tracks,I tried to burnish some single track links...the fluid didn't work any more.

uschi_3.jpg


uschi_4.jpg


The bowl under a lightbulb,...that's a lot of residue,right? :hmmm

uschi_5.jpg



More to come later.

Greetings,Ron.
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

Hi Ron! Great photos! When I used the track burnishing fluid, I scrubbed the tracks with a tooth brush while in the solution (of course I wore rubber gloves :eek:hyeah ) That seems to release the trapped air bubbles and made the tracks come out evenly weathered. I think you could dunk them again and scrub a dub your way to track nirvana. B) (y)

:drinks
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

Hey thanks Mike!

Did not have a tooth brush,so I scrubbed the tracks with a brush with stiff hairs while in the solution.
Alas,alas,...didn't work. :(

After I did the 2 tracks,I tried the fluid on some single track links...it just isn't working anymore.[the tracks just don't get any darker AT ALL]
Maybe I've got a bottle from a bat production batch...I just don't know. :idonno

O heck,I am busy giving the tracks some enamel washes followed up by pigments.
Think it will be ok after my treatment.

Greetings,Ron.
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

I got a couple of bottles of that Chipping Fluid,it looks like it works well.I plan to try it out on a Tiger I in my stash.Good job on yours.

I dont trust that track fluid,they say you can reuse it a few times,if it only works once,then it's just too expensive.I'd rather use regular paint and pigments.
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

Thanks Anthony,

There are several videos about the Uschi van der Rosten track burnishing fluid on the net,
in one of the newest videos, they say you have to clean your tracks with VINEGAR before you give your FRIUL tracks the burnishing fluid treatment...I didn't do that...I cleaned them with dishwater.

Many dishwaters have stuff inside them to protect your hands while doing the dishes,you could say it's kind like a grease,so the burnishing fluid isn't that effective when you use dishwater on them. :bang head

I also didn't dilute the fluid with water,as I was going for a really rusted look.
Man,I couldn't be more wrong!
How ever I am disappointed about the time the stuff is working.
Two full runs of tracklinks and it looses it burnishing effect. :(


I did save the tracks with my usual enamel washes and pigments.
The inside of the tracks were the roadwheels run,got also a treatment of steel colored pigments.[not much rust to be seen there]

tracks1.jpg


tracks2.jpg


tracks3.jpg


You will not see much of this work when the tracks are on the wheels,but dang it,I just like to do
this kind of stuff! :eek:hyeah

Thanks for dropping by.
Greetings,Ron.
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

They look good either way, Ron!! The Friul tracks are cast, so they have a release of some sort on them that needs to be removed. I was a Blacken It user and always soaked the tracks in vinegar for a short while before treating them. Blacken It was inconsistent in its effect for me, it never provided the same results. I have used the Uschi materials once, diluted mine 50/50 and was pleased with the effects. I have saved that mixture for another batch of tracks, guess we'll see how it works round two. Painting tracks works, but still doesn't look like oxidized metal.

I really like what you have done, keep at it!! (y) :drinks
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

Hey RON ,

Sorry to hear that you had a bad time with th burnishing fluid. You picked up on th fact that using Dish soap wasn't a good idea for your reason exactly. It prevents th fluid from working. That could have also contributed to th residue in th bath.

I've used th track solution a couple of times on 2 different sets & it's worked. I diluted My bath 50/50 with distilled water. Distilled being Key , especially if you live in an area that has "hard water" meaning there are a lot of minerals etc.

Here are a few things to consider when using it.

1) Use a bowl that will allow for the tracks to be completely submerged. Even if you have to break a single run of track into runs that will fit in the bowl. ( i.e. Don't glue th track pins in until after you burnish th tracks , * Also - Try to use sewing pins, Sequin Pins , #17 for th big tracks- TIger I, Panther, T-34 etc & #14's for smaller tracks Pz.IV , RSO , etc .- these are made of nickel & won't corrode in th burnishing fluid )

2) Use Distilled White vinegar to "clean" the Tracks before th bath. I left MIne in a bath - completely submerged , for 24 hours . The Acid in the Vinegar will actually "etch" the tracks , removing the release agent & giving something for th burnishing fluid to "bite" into .

3) After you take the tracks out of th Vinegar bath rinse off in a bowl of Distilled water to neutralize what;'s left of the Vinegar - let completely dry.

4) Take the runs of track ( only for one side of th Panzer) and place in the botom of the bowl. Cover completely with th burnishing fluid , fill th empty bottle with distilled water & pour into th solution.

5) Brush th tracks with a toothbrush for most of th time th tracks are in th Bath ( releases Air bubbles , as MIKE suggested (y) ) LEaving this run of track in the bath for about 10-12 minutes - RON since you want rusty tracks leave in longer)

6) remove from th solution & dunk into a bowl of clean distilled water to stop th Fx of th Fluid.

Now, th next set of tracks , you want to prepare exactly like th 1st. Dunking them into th Uschi Bath will take longer on this set & will take longer for each additional set. You should be able to get 2 complete sets - Since you are going for th Rusty , Rusty look , it may take another bottle ??? I haven't tried to get a really rusty set from th Uschi fluid ... :hmmm

I did a video/Review of the burnishing fluid ....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-LbA2JTZs4&list=UUANPFVAUOZCDTiawvLSdCOQ&index=3&feature=plcp​

I think th T-34 is lookin' Hot !! I really like th chippin' FX !! .... Th tracks ??- Live & learn ... I like 'em with th wash !! Look forward to seein' more !!

:drinks :drinks :drinks :v

:erik

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OVvoo1qFPDo​
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

Thanks Erik!

I might give the Uschi stuff another try,how ever there is nothing wrong doing the tracks the old fashioned way.[paint,washes,pigments]

Really dig your 'how to video',as well the videoclip from Stalingrad,together with Cross Of Iron,one of the best German [anti]war movies ever!

:ro:

Greetings,Ron.
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

reconron said:
Thanks Anthony,

There are several videos about the Uschi van der Rosten track burnishing fluid on the net,
in one of the newest videos, they say you have to clean your tracks with VINEGAR before you give your FRIUL tracks the burnishing fluid treatment...I didn't do that...I cleaned them with dishwater.

Many dishwaters have stuff inside them to protect your hands while doing the dishes,you could say it's kind like a grease,so the burnishing fluid isn't that effective when you use dishwater on them. :bang head

I also didn't dilute the fluid with water,as I was going for a really rusted look.
Man,I couldn't be more wrong!
How ever I am disappointed about the time the stuff is working.
Two full runs of tracklinks and it looses it burnishing effect. :(


I did save the tracks with my usual enamel washes and pigments.
The inside of the tracks were the roadwheels run,got also a treatment of steel colored pigments.[not much rust to be seen there]

tracks1.jpg


tracks2.jpg


tracks3.jpg


You will not see much of this work when the tracks are on the wheels,but dang it,I just like to do
this kind of stuff! :eek:hyeah

Thanks for dropping by.
Greetings,Ron.
Click to expand...

:dude
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

Could find the time to work a bit on my T 34,so here we are at the moment...

The cold steel one got a MIG neutral wash and some AK winter streaking grime on it,and made a start at the chipping stage,and got some selected pinwashes;

TANK_1.jpg


The metal part of the saw got a coat of Humbrol Metal Cote 27001 and polished it with a Q-tip,
over that a self made acrylic wash together with some dark brown pigments.
I scratched the 'acrylic pigment wash' while it was not completely dry,with a toothpick,to show the metal beneath it.It looks just like a rusted saw my dad once had. :)
[and yes the paint chips above it are not completly done]

TANK_2.jpg


TANK_3.jpg


TANK_4.jpg


Still got a lot of work to do on this one,so I might drop the idea of the trench. :(
Dang it!If I just could find more bench time...

Greetings,Ron.
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

:drinks

Wish you had more bench time also Ron, love what you're doing here. :popcorn
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

(y) (y) (y)
Really hope you find the time to do the trench to! :drinks
//Mats
 
Re: T 34 and German trench

Nothing wrong with the old-fashioned way Ron !
The tracks look awesome (y)

That goes also for the vehicle, its is gonna be a beauty !
Hope to see it soon :)

Willem
 
Re: T 34 'ChTZ'version

Ok the final pics of this one for this campaign.
Not enough time for me to do the trench thing...but it will come back WITH trench some other time...


T_DONE_1.jpg


I used Marble Polish Coarse Grained to simulate caked on snow on the tracks.

T_DONE_2.jpg


T_DONE_3.jpg


For the patches of snow inside the wheels and some other places on the tank I used Tamiya Powder Snow Effect.

T_DONE_4.jpg


T_DONE_5.jpg


T_DONE_6.jpg


The broken glass of the headlight was done with Micro Kristal Klear,the inside of the light was done by glueing a piece of alu-foil.
There is some battle damage in front of the light,shrapnel traces.
The glue worked in on the glacis plate and a graphite pencil did the trick.

T_DONE_7.jpg


T_DONE_8.jpg


T_DONE_9.jpg


T_DONE_10.jpg


T_DONE_11.jpg


T_DONE_12.jpg


T_DONE_13.jpg



That's it folks...Crusty the Tank will come back in: Just like the real thing...[with the trench thing]
...after a while that is. ;)

Greetings,Ron.
 
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