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Military Bulldozer X3

Thanks for the feedback Ian, I have just a nato black coat on the flapper, I'll have to get the rust effects on it again. I haven't had much model time lately. We're getting the house ready for our Thanksgiving gathering coming up in 3 weeks, last count we have 45 people coming. :wow: :frantic:
I'd be unassing the area. Gary S.
 
Thanks for the feedback Ian, I have just a nato black coat on the flapper, I'll have to get the rust effects on it again. I haven't had much model time lately. We're getting the house ready for our Thanksgiving gathering coming up in 3 weeks, last count we have 45 people coming. :wow: :frantic:
OK, I was just refering to the cylinder. The flap shape is good. I thought the cylinder rust at this point was excellent.
1667879929594.png
 
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I need to seal it up, maybe a bit of a buff before to make it a bit more convincing.

View attachment 154697
I would add just a small section of patchy green around the main cylinder (with a fine brush) and then put a very diluted rust filter over th green. :hmm: Just what I think though......it seems like I am hassling you too much on this aspect, sorry , that's not my intention.
 
I like the way the tracks are sitting.
Thanks, I know they should be tight as it's a live tensioner but considering my troubles with these things...take what you can get! :soldier

The more I look the more issues I see, looking for tarps now. :rotf
 
Thanks for the bump Steve.
I'm needing the bumper codes. I've reached out to Mike Grant decals and got no reply. Our buddy Kenny Loup aka Gator mask is still down in production because of the hurricane that last took out his place.
Anyone have suggestions? Need custom decals, the Archer stuff has no bumper codes, just numeric.
 
Thanks, I know they should be tight as it's a live tensioner but considering my troubles with these things...take what you can get! :soldier

The more I look the more issues I see, looking for tarps now. :rotf
The tracks look fine to me, Bob, if maybe a little looser than just after adjustment. The tensioner is set to leave some slack in the tracks, you try to set the tension equal on both sides, if they are too different the tractor will turn gradually toward the tighter side. The point of the tensioner is not to keep the tracks dead tight, but to relieve strain by letting the front idler move back if a rock or some other thing gets between some part like the idler, roller, or sprocket.
 
For the S/N U.S.A 9145181
7-15 E for unit and vehicle is C9

If my bumpercoding translations is correct. 7th Inf, 15th Engineering Bt.
 
Keep in mind they might be blue or white. I may have enough to make the white.

OK photo shows white serial. Is there a photo for the other codes?
 
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