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Eindecker IV

If you drill a hole in each wing root and add a peg on one side when you glue them together they wont sag. Did that on mine long ago.
James
 
sharkman said:
Nice progress!

Out of curiosity....What in the world is the board in the background with the black knobs? A paint bottle rack???
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It's a black knobby thing to make you ask what the black knobby thing is.

smile.gif
 
Having to take it really slow Ian, painting up sub assemblies and even the individual parts. I don't see how I could do this when it's assembled.
 
Is it widely know and I forgot or is this new?
I primed the wings with Tamiya rattle can then did some preshading on the ribs with Vallejo black. I'm going with "Fokker Beige" and "Fokker Grey" scheme. Instructions call for XF60 and XF22 which works out to be RLM 79 and RLM2 more or less right? So the fuselage no problem. XF60 over Tamiya primer no issues.
I've seem to have collected several bottles of Ammo RLM2 so I decided to try it out. Sprays so much easier than Vallejo's out of the bottle. But what when the paint dried, I noticed that I had good color blend over the Vallejo black but the coverage over the primer looked like the Ammo was beading up against the Tamiya, very fine splotches could be seen. Sorry, didn't get a picture of it. So the question is, does Ammo not play well with Tamiya primer?

I had planned on doing a post highlight between the ribs so I press forward with the last bit of Vallejo RLM2 and some buff mixed in to lighten it up.
Mixed in RLM2 with Model Color Buff (just a drop) a couple of drops of Retarder and a squirt of Testors thinner, the paint ran smooth and no drying on the tip as you expect from Vallejo.
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@sharkman Warren you were askin' about the black knobby thing.
It's a Tiki Kat Kustoms paint rack.
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1587913205909.png

@Iron Mike made one for Chris and myself a while back. I've really enjoyed mine! (y)

So my thinking on this model is I need to have it pretty much fully painted, decaled and weathered up before assembly and rigging. Once rigging is done there's not much getting to it.
 
Glad you are making good progress Bob! Sorry to hear of your paint woes, I still work with enamels when I have them. I am using and working with some relatively new acrylics made here in the states that really are nice. They actually put out Opaques, Semi-Transparent, and Transparent paints in many colors. They come in slightly larger than 1oz bottles, have a BIG rattle ball in them and spray great straight from the bottle. He has hundreds of colors and says he will start putting out some military colors later this year. Only flaw I have found with any of the stuff is the labels tend to come unstuck from the bottles with the edges wrapped around lifting. They press and stick back easily but to make it stop a piece of tape there will do the trick.
 
Heavens Eagle said:
Glad you are making good progress Bob! Sorry to hear of your paint woes, I still work with enamels when I have them. I am using and working with some relatively new acrylics made here in the states that really are nice. They actually put out Opaques, Semi-Transparent, and Transparent paints in many colors. They come in slightly larger than 1oz bottles, have a BIG rattle ball in them and spray great straight from the bottle. He has hundreds of colors and says he will start putting out some military colors later this year. Only flaw I have found with any of the stuff is the labels tend to come unstuck from the bottles with the edges wrapped around lifting. They press and stick back easily but to make it stop a piece of tape there will do the trick.
Click to expand...
Well you know that begs the question. What paints are you using now?
 
I wonder if Tamiya changed something because I always used it before. But remember my SA-5 launcher giving funky colours? Same basic thing but I was using MMP paints. To be safe on the RQ-7B and Straight Flush I primed with MMP primer.
 
Don't think so James, to me the Tamiya is the known factor, haven't been using Ammo stuff much. I do have Ammo primer, to give it a far shake I think the next thing I build I'll use Ammo only. Like I said, really like the way it sprayed right out of the bottle. Just gotta get it to lay down right.
 

Shake it until your arm falls off, then switch arms. :mpup
Spray thin layers like the video shows, its all good once you get used to it.
 
sharkmouth said:
Or use that nail polish bottle shaker, like the one I bought.
View attachment 1476

Regards,
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This is absolutely worth it btw. I got a different one but I shake all my paints with it now and it really makes a difference no matter the brand. MMP, Tamiya, Ammo of Mig, Vallejo, they all come out much better after going on the shaker.
JAmes
 
moon puppy said:
@sharkman Warren you were askin' about the black knobby thing.
It's a Tiki Kat Kustoms paint rack.
View attachment 1473
View attachment 1474
@Iron Mike made one for Chris and myself a while back. I've really enjoyed mine! (y)

So my thinking on this model is I need to have it pretty much fully painted, decaled and weathered up before assembly and rigging. Once rigging is done there's not much getting to it.
Click to expand...


Neat idea for the paint rack. I like the offset design so that it is easy to grab the bottles.
 
And off to the wrong start...
Went back and read my old Eindecker thread from 6, yes 6 years ago.
I found where Ian made this suggestion.

Brokeneagle said:
MP,
I would just go with Testors Chrome silver as the base then squiggle pattern with flat Aluminum using a brush.Keep it simple.
That's how I was going to do it anyway on mine (when I get around to building it) :)

Ian.
Click to expand...

I'll see if I can find some flat aluminum and test on the kit cowls first.
 
I tried using Tamiya flat aluminum and then an extra fine silver sharpie. Then mist a coat of very dilute aluminum over top.
 
Test run, Model Masters Chrome Silver over Tamiya flat aluminum.
1588379098545.png


think I need a sharper brush and get tighter loopdeloops. :rotf
 
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