• Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
    This requires that you manually reset your password.
    Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.

Cold Panther

MOONIE,

I picked this trick up from TONY LEE ..... I use Sequin pins for track pins. I use th #17 pins. I found them at a Dress/Fabric store. Plus the head on th pin makes a great anchor for the pin. Just a small dab of C.A. on th inside of the Head & slide it into th track link 7 There ya have it. You won't see th head of the pin as it's on th inside of the track that faces th Panther. They are made out of Nickel & won't corrode in the Bath if You decide to Dip it , & If ya do. ... I'd recommend the Track Burnishing Fluid from USCHI/AK Interactive. It doesn't have a lot of sediment that Builds up & th bath stays cleaner & can be used for 2 full sets of trax ! You can get it from IAIN @ AK-USA. It's great Stuff.

Check this out .....

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-LbA2JTZs4&list=UUANPFVAUOZCDTiawvLSdCOQ&index=3&feature=plcp​
 
Well I have not made the effort to find the pins yet. I will, thanks for this Erik.

Here's what I ended up doing. Took a .5mm brass rod and cut it at a very sharp angle. made maybe 2.5-3 inches long. Chucked it up in the dremal. Then I fitted two links as they are suppose to be, then threaded the make shift drill bit and applied slow power. Cleaned out the holes on both track links nicely. Then I just drop the pin that I had pre cut, into the bored out hole and it fit snug as can be. I have about one more session with this side then I'll move to the next.
 
:v
Good to see you on the dark side MP and making good progress too.

Don't forget to 'trick-up'the yellow with some fading over the engine deck, driver deck and roof, spatter fading and scratching will help the sides too.
nice progress.
Track pin wise I just use normal silver sowing pins with the end clipped after fitting.

Ian.
 
Thanks Ian...so...how would you pull off that fading?

I'm planning on starting the weathering this weekend. My plan is to wash with Migs Neutral Wash, Pin wash, maybe some filters (to get that fading maybe?) and then start mudding it up. Would that be the correct order?
 
OK I'm putting decals and markings on now. I have searched the web and can't find anything definitive on what markings could be on this Panther.

This is what I have to work with.

http://www.archertransfers.com/AR35082.html

Can someone point me to what markings should be on here for the 4th pz div, 35th reg?

One thing I did read, that unit markings would be unusual on a Panther in late war. Thoughts??

:popcorn
 
Here you go Pups


http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:4th_Panzer_Division_logo.svg

I wouldnt worry about whatever the 35th would be,.. just the Panzer div

Markings usually on front plate upper far right

Markings usually got obscured by mud dirt and wear and as you say some didnt have them some did by that time in the war
 
until about 1942, 4th panzer division consisted of 35th and 36th panzerregiment, after that only 35th was part of the 4th division.

4th division is an excellent choice - one of my heros, general dietrich von saucken was commanding 4th division for some time!

to bring some enlightment to the decal sheet:

A) was the division sign in poland
B )/C) was the sign used in the french campaign until 1942
D) was partially used from 1943-1945 (only partially and unofficial)
E) was used from 1943-1945 (official)
F) was used in the battle of kursk
G) according to my references this sign was NOT used by 4th division but by 6th regiment of 3rd division as addition to their regular sign to honour one of their regimental commanders after receiving the swords to the oak leaves of the knights cross who earlier served with 4th division
 
Kreighshoer said:
until about 1942, 4th panzer division consisted of 35th and 36th panzerregiment, after that only 35th was part of the 4th division.

4th division is an excellent choice - one of my heros, general dietrich von saucken was commanding 4th division for some time!
Click to expand...

Just read the Wiki on this guy. WOW! Right in der Führer Face! :woohoo:

Thanks for your help everyone

Mike not much to update, all I have right now is some Future and the cross on what I posted earlier. I got to start the wheels and weathering the tank now. Will update from there.
 
It's finally happened.

I've been dabblin' in pigments for a long time but I have never attempted something on this level. After reading, and watching all the advice from all you guys and gals over the years, I'm giving it a shot.

Used low oder Mineral Spirits to "fix", mixed Burnt Umber, Burnt Sianna and Yellow Ochre to get the tones and colors. I only hope these pictures capture the colors that are there.

Panther018.jpg


Panther019.jpg


Loaded up the paint brush and cranked up the airbrush to about 40psi and splattered on the rear end. Passable?

Panther020.jpg


Panther021.jpg


And here she is on on a couple of wheels to show the filtering and wash that's been applied. I have not done a pin wash just yet. Looking for y'alls feedback to see what to do next.

Thanks for checking, comments always encouraged! :mpup
 
Don't get too exited there Darth Mike, I'm doing a plane next. in glorious NMF, or maybe a Luftwaffe Splinter!!! :pilot
 
Doing good, Moonie: that tank is looking nice, specially the lower hull and suspensions! :dude To tell you the truth, I've never even seen modeling "pigments" first hand - guess I'll have to bring in some from abroad for my first build. :hmmm

Would you believe that only now, after Googling it, did I find out what NMF (Natural Metal Finish) was?!? :unsure:

Cheers! B)
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top