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Cold Panther

MP,I wouldn't have used the Burnt Sienna pigment,but over all for a first try... (y) (y)
Burnt Sienna is ideal for rust staining or maybe some soil found in Vietnam.

[maybe when I got some more time,I will do a special on using pigments]

@ FERNAO:Maybe you can get pigments from a art-supply shop,it doesn't always have to be the fancy MIG or Vallejo pigments, you know.

Greetings,Ron.
 
I hear what you saying Ron but to me, anything less would have been lost against the base, I think...or should I have built up the lighter colors to stand out more?
 
moon puppy said:
I hear what you saying Ron but to me, anything less would have been lost against the base, I think...or should I have built up the lighter colors to stand out more?
Click to expand...

Since this is a winter build [right?],I would have used more darker pigments like the Burnt Umber you used,soil turns darker in shade during winter,most of the time, caused by constant rain and snow.
Lighter pigments are ideal for summer conditions [thrown up dust].

Pigment build up would benefit this build,but I would use darker colors then.
You have to ask your self the question on what kind of soil this tank was operating,was it freezing
all of the time[little or no mud build up],was it moving through muddy fields [build up mud] before the freeze kicked in?

How ever,this is a GOOD first try on using pigments,and if you are happy with how it looks,please carry on.[I have seen worse first tries] (y) :soldier

Greetings,Ron.
 
I'm not going for a winter coated finish, early thaw or rainy November maybe. Thanks for the advice Ron, will build up some more for depth.

I'm noticing the Mineral Spirits are not "fixing" the pigments in place, I can rub it off. What else should I use that will not dull out the colors?
 
moon puppy said:
I'm noticing the Mineral Spirits are not "fixing" the pigments in place, I can rub it off. What else should I use that will not dull out the colors?
Click to expand...

You COULD use this...

MIG00249.jpg


MIG pigment fixer,SHAKE WELL BEFORE USE!When you see bubbles on top it's good to go.

There are other firms who make pigment fixer,but I really like the MIG offering. :eek:hyeah

Greetings,Ron.
 
Iron Mike said:
As I mentioned this afternoon, 91% alcohol works quite well for fixing pigments.
Click to expand...

It sure does! I check my work this evening and last nights pigment application just blew off in the wind. Did it again with the 91% Alcohol and it stuck like glue. I've read this time and time again but it just didn't stick with me.

Thanks for the info Ron, next time I order something i'll get a bottle.
 
Ron said:
"... @ FERNAO: Maybe you can get pigments from a art-supply shop,it doesn't always have to be the fancy MIG or Vallejo pigments, you know."
Click to expand...
Thank you Ron. :dude A good friend told me the same in pvt which made me pretty happy, as getting those pigments would've been a pain! :angry: The alcohol fixing bit, suggested by Iron Mike and executed with success by Moonie, is also a relief, for sourcing the MIG fixer ins't easy here either. :hmmm

Well, now lets wait'n see what Moonie's got reserved for us in this build! ;)

Cheers! B)
Fernao
 
Id use darker lower down towards the bottom to give the impression of going through wet earth and of course lighter further up to show where its been before that has already dried

You always do a wash of dark paint that gets soaked up by the pigments this gives you a great visual effect as that is what actually happens in real life

looking gooooood Pups
 
OK, my question is, why make workable tracks if we have to glue the sprockets in place?? Rhetorical...

Just realized, get the tracks on and this could be done!
 
moon puppy said:
OK, my question is, why make workable tracks if we have to glue the sprockets in place?? Rhetorical...

Just realized, get the tracks on and this could be done!
Click to expand...

To get the realistic sag in the tracks without doing all the old time Shep Paine tricks.

Terry B)
 
dang that's tough work threading the tracks over static wheels and sprockets.


Well how's this for some sag?

Panther022.jpg

This shot has too looks too tight so I added a link.


Panther023.jpg

Now it looks too loose. Which one y'all think?



Panther025.jpg

This is the other side, looks right to me.

Panther024.jpg

Now, I know there's been a lot of discussion about tracks being installed the wrong way but I'll be damned if I can figure out what way they are suppose to go. So here's what I got, again, y'all tell me. Right, wrong??
 
moon puppy said:
Panther024.jpg

Now, I know there's been a lot of discussion about tracks being installed the wrong way but I'll be damned if I can figure out what way they are suppose to go. So here's what I got, again, y'all tell me. Right, wrong??
Click to expand...

I can't really see close enough in the pictures... :geek

But maybe this helps;

panther_tracks.jpg


Notice the prominenced things on top of the tracks [don't know how to call them,but early panther tracks didn't have them,they are supposed to give the track more grip]

HTH

Greetings,Ron.
 
Dang this thing is getting heavy!

I just glued the extra tracks on the sides. Not sure how they would have been hung there, read that hooks were used and sometimes they were welded. Well I used CA!

The Archer transfers worked great in the tight confines between the track horns. Weathered up those spares to various degrees, some are old, some new. I know there's a lot of detail missed, especially on those hanger racks for the spare tracks. But without the grills, no point it going all out on this.

Panther026.jpg


Thoughts?

The Skirt Armor...those paper parts didn't hold up well under weathering pressures. The paper based hangers just mushroomed up just as you'd think layered paper would do when wet. I'm going back and try the kit parts now, maybe I can get them lined up right where I can use the skirts.

Quick Question. Where would they have stowed spare wheels? Saul was gracious enough to send me a couple of wheels, I'd like to stow them away but not sure where.
 
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