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1/350 US Coast Guard Reliance class Cutter TLAR Models #723

If you liked the USCG aircraft decals,
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You'll REALLY like this! There are different 1/350 decals for Early and late, modern Reliance WMEC's. At one point I considered releasing the Early Cutter, with an upgrade kit for the modern ship. (Big bridge, smokestack & parts, Mk.2 and Mk.4 OTH boats and cranes, Mk. 38 Chain gun and round gun platform, and a forest of SATCOM domes) I hesitate to further complicate an already complex kit. Yeah. Me.

The size of the decal sheet determined the size of the package, so they lay flat in the box. U-Line S-159 boxes should fit the decals nicely.
Oh! And that other stuff that comes with the model too!

"Hey, that's cool! I can actually read them!" Teresa, my biggest cheerleader!
 
I took me a tumble yesterday on the icy parking at work. The ice tripped me and a Chevy pick-up knocked me down. To add insult to injury, I conked my ol' noggin on the running board as a finale'. So I'm home. Urgent care Doc prescribed cyclobenzaprine as a muscle relaxer. I slept like a stone last night. NO TRUSTING FARTS! I find I am unable to do math. Don't worry friends, I won't go all USMC. Crayons are safe here, for now.

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Since the Big Cutter boxes came, I thought being in a dopey state of mind might lend itself to the creativity of box art. It DO!
The checklist I devised for the inside of the box lid is to make certain all the parts of this prolific kit get properly packaged.

More large (?!) castings will commence when my 100ml measuring cups arrive. More mold-making will commence when my next batch of Smooth-On MoldMax-10 RTV arrives.

Thanks you guys for looking in!
 
Take care Chris! The ice can be treacherous. My boss has pretty much shut down all week here. Looks like it will finally start warming up late Sunday and Monday (YAY) Looks like we might have a little sun today, and maybe it will help. While I have driven and can drive on this crap, most Memphicans can't drive on dry and sunny roads. Thus why I have been home doing my thing all week.
 
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"I believe that 3-dimensional objects have bottoms." Is my mantra when people ask me why I cast my resin models on a pour stub.
You can see that the beavertail of the helicopter flight deck needs stringers between the beams, but the idea was that if a Man modeled an early Reliance WMEC, he could chop off the beavertail at the first beam for the initial production, squared-off helo deck. See?!
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Then too, the afterdeck stanchions fit into the side of the flight deck with just a little bit of wiggle room, and a minimum of filler required to make a solid, smooth joint and give some esthetic under-hang (?!) to make the railing openings more realistic.
Making my Big Cutter customers scratch-build these details seemed un-TLAR-like. The catch is, now the mold for this part will work better as a two-part mold, so as not to trap any air bubbles in the RTV, rather than the simpler, speedier one piece mold.

Evidently, I also believe these same parts have undersides as well. :wow:
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The brass parts are finished on the structure under the flight deck. (View over the stern rail) It seems the center watertight door is a staple. Throughout their long service lives, beginning in 1964, the Reliance class cutters underwent many alterations. An overhead chain hoist on rails would be cool, but I can't prove there ever was one. All that is left to finish on this assembly is the underside stringers and helicopter tie-downs.
Choosing the Cutter I build to write the instructions isn't easy. USCGC Dauntless, WMEC-624 is featured in the box top art of the kit. I took her picture at Grand Turk in 2011. John pointed out that she was featured in the movie "The Island". Lots of details were gleaned from watching those scenes 58 time or so.

Crew videos and photos of USCGC Active "The Little Tough Guy" WMEC-618, have been a huge help with this project. I have her challenge coin and bought a USCGC Active Training Team cover. (No, I never did serve in the US Coast Guard.)

If I want to use the included 1/350 scale fiberglass shit-houses, it should be WMEC-622, USCGC Courageous in her more modern fit. :bm:

The Coast Guard adopted the "Racing Stripe" identification markings in April of 1967. This dovetails well with this years IPMS National convention in Madison WI. The theme is "Red, White and Blue." Fitting for such vessels, don't you think?

Mark Karolus bought a vendor table and invited us to come share it with him this year. Production of all things TLAR will continue at a fever pitch to get ready for our first appearance at the National Show. :coolio2:
Thanks for looking in again!
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:oldguy:
:salute:
 
I suspect the TLAR Model customer who would be ordering this would be pretty familiar with the subject and instructions would be mere suggestions to their ideas.

:popcorn
 
I suspect the TLAR Model customer who would be ordering this would be pretty familiar with the subject and instructions would be mere suggestions to their ideas.

:popcorn
Oh, Kind 'Pup, Did your Cap-Holder-O-Matic come with instructions?
Did you read them?

At the same time you aren't far from wrong.
I engineered the major assemblies of this kit to go together without too much guesswork, even for a beginner. References for the WMEC you want to build and which fitment, will have much to do with where the rest of smaller parts are located, to use the smoke stack or nuclear power, long or squared-off helo after deck, which gun, platform, pilothouse & railings, which boats and hoists or cranes, ammo and equipment lockers, powered ventilators, life raft canister racks, D/F loop or not, placement of the myriad SATCOM and Nav. domes.....:frantic:

1/350 HH-52A Seaguard or HH-65C Dolphin helicopters? :choppa:

The hull, superstructure, mast, upper mast platform and flag bags remained unchanged over the years. Masthead and yardarms differ some.
Early Reliance cutters had one rotating Nav. radar. Later WMEC's had 2, one taller than the other on the mast platform. :doh:
That's why there are 2 sets of color decals 1964-1967 "White hull" cutters and post '67 to present day "Racing Stripe" Markings for all 16 Reliance class cutters.

Kenny Loup printed the white flight deck marking decals and they look excellent! He even outlined them in red to make them easier to cut out!
The kit will include 2 to be sure the decal is opaque enough on the finished model.

A lot of thought and attention to detail has, and continues to go into the grand Big Cutter kit since July of last year.
I take a lot of pride in my work. I hope it shows.
 
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Sometimes, my pursuit of the best quality materials goes awry. I hoped to use it in the bottom of the 2-part superstructure mold, which would become the top. This clay says "Soft" on it. I'm sure it is for SCULPTING clay. :facepalm:
It is too hard to schmoosh the top of the superstructure into, so,
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Improvise, adapt, overcome! Dig a ditch around the inside of the Lego. This makes a crown on the top of the mold to keep resin from slopping over the top, a base for the superstructure to stand on, and pedestals long enough to be sure RTV will get all the way under it.
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This white contraption will make the 'keys' in the mold to make sure both mold parts fit precisely together. The idea is to pour RTV up to the bridge (top) deck, and let it cure completely. pull the key gizmo, build up the box walls, generous mold release application and pour the bottom of the mold on top, see?! If all goes well, I should be able to clean out the clay, divide the fully cured mold halves and recover the undamaged Master. Cleaning up the castings should be a breeze! :hmm:
 
"Schmoosh"? That the technical term for what is going on here folks. Schmoosh :bat
Yes. Akin to "Squinch" which has to do with pressing slightly oversized materials into a small space.
And "Hoozie". An unusual or classified object referred to during unsecured transmissions.

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RTV poured! This time there won't be any de-mold until 24 hours after the top (Bottom) of the mold is poured. I laid a plastic sheet over the key-gizmo and put another mold on that to make sure everything stayed in put in the pressure pot. It's all up to the chemicals now!
I'll follow Carl's advice on clay for the flight deck mold, so it can be more easily schmooshed to the deck edge.

The new 1/350 USCG 41' UTB mold was poured at this time too. There are a lot of projects to finish. the 1/700 USCG 41's will go in the new 1/700 scale Rum Runners, Smugglers and Small Boats Set, with all the movie star vessels.
The 1/700 Movie Star Boat set will be discontinued. The final set is marked down for quick sale on tlarmodels.com
Thanks again for looking in!!
 
"Schmoosh"? That the technical term for what is going on here folks. Schmoosh :bat
Yes. Akin to "Squinch" which has to do with pressing slightly oversized materials into a small space.
And "Hoozie". An unusual or classified object referred to during unsecured transmissions.

View attachment 165412
RTV poured! This time there won't be any de-mold until 24 hours after the top (Bottom) of the mold is poured. I laid a plastic sheet over the key-gizmo and put another mold on that to make sure everything stayed in put in the pressure pot. It's all up to the chemicals now!
I'll follow Carl's advice on clay for the flight deck mold, so it can be more easily schmooshed to the deck edge.

A 1 pound package of professional grade Chavant Sculpex sculpting clay will be for sale as well.

The new 1/350 USCG 41' UTB mold was poured at this time too. There are a lot of projects to finish.
The 1/700 USCG 41's will go in the new 1/700 scale Rum Runners, Smugglers and Small Boats Set, with all the movie star vessels.
The 1/700 Movie Star Boat set will be discontinued. The final set is marked down for quick sale on tlarmodels.com
Thanks again for looking in!!
:silly:
:oldguy:
:salute:
 
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RTV cured on the first half of the 2-part mold while we were at play in Marion.
Surface tension causes curing RTV to vertical surfaces. Those "lips" are trimmed off to allow air to escape and new mold rubber to enter more readily. I plan to pour the bottom (top) of the mold tomorrow after work. The new mold release will be applied exactly according to the instructions.
 
I stalled pouring the top (bottom) half of the mold. I'm not sure why. I have new mold release, that behaves differently than my old stuff does.
It should work fine. I followed the instructions and watched the Reynolds video 6 or 7 times.

Maybe I just don't have faith in the Chemicals. Making a big, pink, rubber cube with a complex Master trapped in it haunted the back of my mind. "Do-Over" happens here every now and again, but this would have set the Big Cutter project back a month.
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I dicked around with a 1/700 USCG Sentinel-class Fast Response Cutter. Her boat well fits a 26-foot Mk.2 OTH boat. New engine intake trunking. Her bridge needs work.....................
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I improved the cottage Master for the 1/700 Island class WPB set re-release. I found another chunk of cured epoxy putty and fashioned another, more modest Lighthouse..............
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Finally I just took the plunge. The 12-hour cured mold half separated flawlessly and the Master was recovered without mishap. The keying tabs were a little soft, so I let them cure for another 24 hours. As always, casting the new mold will tell the tale.

I will comment at this time, what you see here is NOT the optimum procedure for making a 2-part mold.
Y'all will get to see the "Less Dick With It" appropriate process when I pour the flight deck mold.
The last mold to make for this kit (hopefully!)

THEN! The fun starts! I just about cain't hardly wait to start building one of these Big Cutters. I have write the instructions, right?!
Thanks whole big bunches for looking in again!

To TLAR Big Cutter customers, I cain't say how much I appreciate your kind attention and patience!
You want what next? S.S. Minnow and US Coast Guard Island class WPB in 1/350 scale?
Da schitzt dem Hund im Feuerzeug! Lemme finish this first. Honey hush!
 
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First casting! Praise God and Smooth-On!!
That's not a gap in the first picture. The Bridge railing is so thin, it's translucent. Relieving the mold inside the rail will make that a tad sturdier.
I knew there would be a seam. I put the seam line in a spot that would be easy to clean up.
See the p/e hatches? If you don't pick them out of the mold, the first casting grabs them. Totally acceptable!
The next casting will have those hatches in the resin assembly.
PSCHWOOO! I couldn't be more pleased!
Right!! Back to work!!
 
HELICOPTER DAY!!
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I think when Igor Sikorsky built his first helicopter and thought what a great life-saving aircraft it would be, the HH-3 would have pleased him.
1/350 HH-3E Jolly Green Giant arrived. She's being converted to a1/350 USCG HH-3F Pelican.

"Rhino, why is this Cap-Holder-O-Matic not the usual solar energy absorbing gray?"

Well, that is an excellent question. Not so unlike the Albino Elephant, silverback Gorilla or even the elusive white sperm whale, Moby Dick, this could be considered a genetic flaw. Only once is a generation or so does Cap-Holder-O-Matic come from the pressure pot sans pigment.
A rarity to be sure! There's nothing to worry about unless the LED turns red. Then the silly sumbitch doesn't work at all until it charges back up.
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Not THIS Pelican!.....................This one!

This Shapeways 3D print hollow. I was delighted to find this since she was a tail-sitter. 3 birdshot pellets and brass nose search radar made from brass tube machined on a Milwaukee cordless drill fixed that! The 1/350 Pelican is NOT for the Big Cutter kit. She is mine alone to play with!

OK, Back to the Big Cutter helicopters!
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The Shapeways 1/350 Sikorsky HH-52A Seaguard's look great! They were originally touted as "The US Coast Guard's Flying Lifeboat". These even have the side hatch open! I will make 8 brass 2-bladed tail rotors to go with the 3D printed main rotors.
I've actually sat in this aircraft. They had one at Freedom Park in Omaha, NE not so very long ago.
More casting tonight. The flight deck mold box is being prepped.

Thanks for enduring another long ortello! Habby Saturday!
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:salute:
:drunksailor:
:Drinks:
 
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