Messerschmitts X 3

[matrixone]

Thank you!

Just moments ago I sprayed RLM 82 on the fuselage of the Me 262 and after that sets for a short while I will spray on the RLM 81 to complete the camouflage pattern.
The photograph of 'white 1' only shows the right hand side of the fuselage so I used photograph's of the well known 'yellow 5' to help guide me with painting the left side of the fuselage...both 'white 1' and 'yellow 5' were operated by KG(j)6 and they wore similar camouflage patterns. They were also built by Messerschmitt at Regensburg and had the same W.Nr. block so I feel good about the chances of my model being painted correctly.

I hope to post some pictures of the model later today.


Matrixone

 

[Hippy Ed]

Thank you!

Just moments ago I sprayed RLM 82 on the fuselage of the Me 262 and after that sets for a short while I will spray on the RLM 81 to complete the camouflage pattern.
The photograph of 'white 1' only shows the right hand side of the fuselage so I used photograph's of the well known 'yellow 5' to help guide me with painting the left side of the fuselage...both 'white 1' and 'yellow 5' were operated by KG(j)6 and they wore similar camouflage patterns. They were also built by Messerschmitt at Regensburg and had the same W.Nr. block so I feel good about the chances of my model being painted correctly.

I hope to post some pictures of the model later today.


Matrixone

B)

 

[SA Dave]

The painting of the upper surface colors on the 262 has been started but its been a rough start, the paints I have are several years old and are difficult to work with even after proper thinning so I did the best I could with what I had to work with.

As usual when painting the upper surface colors on my models I paint the wings and fuselage separately, no, I am not concerned about overspray I simply found its MUCH easier to paint a model this way, this way I can safely handle the model without the risk of getting fingerprints on fresh paint.

The upper surface of the wings and tail plane was done free handed and I used this illustration for guidance.

This profile of ''white 1'' is what I HOPE my model will look like in another day of painting. For those that know the Me 262 well will notice the camo pattern on the fuselage is not the standard pattern. :hmmm

...and the model as it looks right now...

More pictures of the painting done today.

If anybody here is looking for a good reference book on late war Me 262's this one is excellent and great value for the money. Yes it deals mostly with KG(j) Me 262's there is plenty of material in it on other Me 262's that would be of great help to modelers building this aircraft.

Matrixone

Oh man thats looking sweeeeeeeeeeeeet :woohoo:

 

[matrixone]

Thanks Ed and Dave!

Okay, here are the pics of today's painting.

The RLM 82 sprayed on the fuselage.

...and here it is after the RLM 81 has been sprayed on.

And the upper surface pattern as seen from above.

Matrixone

 

[Hippy Ed]

:woohoo: B) :drinks

 

[lupanzer]

Nicely done ,Les....

Luiz

 

[SA Dave]

Thanks Ed and Dave!

Okay, here are the pics of today's painting.

The RLM 82 sprayed on the fuselage.

...and here it is after the RLM 81 has been sprayed on.

And the upper surface pattern as seen from above.

Matrixone

Just getting better n better

 

[matrixone]

Thanks again!

Earlier today when I was outside taking pictures of the Me 262 I felt like I was being watched...and I was right, this thing was looking at me. Yes it was pretty big but not quite the giant spider I had last summer, funny thing is this spider was on the ceiling of my carport in nearly the exact spot that the giant of last summer was. They normally stay in their funnel shaped webs.
Think what you will but this climate change thing is affecting spiders and bugs, the spiders around here the past five years seem to be getting bigger.

I inverted the image, this spider was actually on my carport ceiling watching me work.

Matrixone

 

[moon puppy]

:love

 

[matrixone]

Thanks Bob!

More work on the Revell Bf 109G-10'Erla'.

The more I get into this build the more I find wrong with it. The latest problem is the gun cowl and Revell's decision to put the seam lines of the parts so close to natural panel line gaps. Why could they have not just simply made the part with the proper shape so no filling of the gap would be needed?
As it is it will be tricky to fill in the seam line gap without erasing the molded in detail. This is only the front, there are other parts to the gun cowl where there are similar problems...I am not going to bother trying to fix them all.

This first picture shows the natural panel line that should be there and notice how close it is to the edge.

...and here you can see the problem, why Revell could not have made the gun cowl just a bit shorter so this problem would not even exist? :smack

mind the gap!

Here are the Hasegawa and Revell kits side by side, at first I thought the fin fillet on the Revell kit was way too skinny but after looking at the drawings of the 109G-10 in one of my Kagero books Revell is closer to being correct but still a tad too thin and the Hasegawa kit is too boxy looking.

Matrixone

 

[lupanzer]

Ok!...good reference for future assemblies.

Luiz

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Les in instances like what you have on the cowling I use a mix of very thin and medium Superglue (a drop or 2 of each on an old sapphire watch crystal) and apply it to the gap until it fills. I then put a little accelerator on top to kick it a bit. The brand I find works the best is the generic stuff that is labeled for local hobby shops and the like.

Specifically the type made in the USA and distributed by bSi Found at www.bsi-inc.com The super thin is blue capped and labeled, the medium is purple and the accelerant is in a brown plastic bottle. The superglues don't tend to outgas and make the white fuzz and the accelerant doesn't evaporate like Tenax but more like alcohol or water. The super glues also don't seem to get quite as hard as some. They seem to be about the same hardness as the plastic so it is easier to sand and file.

I am sure you have a way that works well, but suggestions can never hurt.

 

[moon puppy]

Les, in addition to what Paul suggested why not make it a natural seam like you want? Cut off the extra of the cowl, fill in the slot on the fuselage flush with filler then sand smooth. that way you don't erase anything and you're basically showing Revell how to do it.

 

[Hippy Ed]

Interesting. I wonder if that problem exists on my 1/24 Airfix 109-E? :hmmm

 

[matrixone]

Thanks very much for the suggestions, I will indeed use super glue to fill the gap.

Super glue and accelerator is my go-to filler of choice on most areas of the models, as long as the super glue is sanded smooth within a few minutes after application its terrific....if you let it set for 20 minutes or more its horrific and can't be sanded down without destroying the plastic of the model. I have a huge amount of experience with super glue after 12 years of being an active builder of RC aircraft.
It does not look like the top of the oil tank is filled in and sanded smooth but it is, I used super glue for this and since its clear the gap still shows, some paint on it will make it look better.

Ed,
You should not have the same problem with the cowl on your Airfix 109, the Me 109E and late war Bf 109G-10 had completely different cowl designs.


Matrixone

 

[Hippy Ed]

Thanks very much for the suggestions, I will indeed use super glue to fill the gap.

Super glue and accelerator is my go-to filler of choice on most areas of the models, as long as the super glue is sanded smooth within a few minutes after application its terrific....if you let it set for 20 minutes or more its horrific and can't be sanded down without destroying the plastic of the model. I have a huge amount of experience with super glue after 12 years of being an active builder of RC aircraft.
It does not look like the top of the oil tank is filled in and sanded smooth but it is, I used super glue for this and since its clear the gap still shows, some paint on it will make it look better.

Ed,
You should not have the same problem with the cowl on your Airfix 109, the Me 109E and late war Bf 109G-10 had completely different cowl designs.


Matrixone

ALright. Thanks for that. I wasn't sure so, hadta ask Also, thanks for the tip on the Super glue for filler :drinks

 

[matrixone]

Ed,
If you have not used super glue as a filler before keep in mind that all sanding and smoothing of the super glue must be done within a few minutes of placing the accelerator on the model or the super glue will harden so much it will be impossible to work with. Its best to work on a smaller areas of the model and break it down into sections to give you plenty of time to work in case you are distracted for some reason.
I use an old X-acto knife blade to put the super glue into the gap to be filled, the less glue put on the easier it is to smooth down. Medium super glue works good, the thin super glue is too thin and might travel in places where you don't want it to go...the medium stays where its put. Wet sanding is ideal when smoothing out seam lines filled with super glue and creates no dust at all.


Matrixone

 

[Hippy Ed]

Ed,
If you have not used super glue as a filler before keep in mind that all sanding and smoothing of the super glue must be done within a few minutes of placing the accelerator on the model or the super glue will harden so much it will be impossible to work with. Its best to work on a smaller areas of the model and break it down into sections to give you plenty of time to work in case you are distracted for some reason.
I use an old X-acto knife blade to put the super glue into the gap to be filled, the less glue put on the easier it is to smooth down. Medium super glue works good, the thin super glue is too thin and might travel in places where you don't want it to go...the medium stays where its put. Wet sanding is ideal when smoothing out seam lines filled with super glue and creates no dust at all.


Matrixone

Great! Thanks for that info. I've used Super glue before but, never tried the accelerator yet. I'll keep this in mind

 

[Swordsman]

Ed,
If you have not used super glue as a filler before keep in mind that all sanding and smoothing of the super glue must be done within a few minutes of placing the accelerator on the model or the super glue will harden so much it will be impossible to work with. Its best to work on a smaller areas of the model and break it down into sections to give you plenty of time to work in case you are distracted for some reason.
I use an old X-acto knife blade to put the super glue into the gap to be filled, the less glue put on the easier it is to smooth down. Medium super glue works good, the thin super glue is too thin and might travel in places where you don't want it to go...the medium stays where its put. Wet sanding is ideal when smoothing out seam lines filled with super glue and creates no dust at all.


Matrixone

Great! Thanks for that info. I've used Super glue before but, never tried the accelerator yet. I'll keep this in mind

Ed it would behoove you to practice on some scrap styrene ...... just saying ..... CA Haters of the World unite !!! .......

 

[Hippy Ed]

Ed,
If you have not used super glue as a filler before keep in mind that all sanding and smoothing of the super glue must be done within a few minutes of placing the accelerator on the model or the super glue will harden so much it will be impossible to work with. Its best to work on a smaller areas of the model and break it down into sections to give you plenty of time to work in case you are distracted for some reason.
I use an old X-acto knife blade to put the super glue into the gap to be filled, the less glue put on the easier it is to smooth down. Medium super glue works good, the thin super glue is too thin and might travel in places where you don't want it to go...the medium stays where its put. Wet sanding is ideal when smoothing out seam lines filled with super glue and creates no dust at all.


Matrixone

Great! Thanks for that info. I've used Super glue before but, never tried the accelerator yet. I'll keep this in mind

Ed it would behoove you to practice on some scrap styrene ...... just saying ..... CA Haters of the World unite !!! .......

That's just common sense ldguy