• Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
    This requires that you manually reset your password.
    Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.

Revell: Westland Lynx Mk8 1/32 "FINISHED"

they give you a PE gun barrel that is a flat sheet of brass with holes in it.
I have absolutely no idea how to roll a perforated brass sheet in to a tube 1.5mm dia without it just folding into a hex tube long the holes :)
It aint easy...I can do it on the larger cooling jackets of the WWI guns but that one I wouldn't even attempt.
 
Wow, what a transformation on that gun! Way to go!

Have you tried annealing the P/E before you tried rolling it? That helps to facilitate such curves by softening the P/E enough to flex that way.

Just a thought.
 
they give you a PE gun barrel that is a flat sheet of brass with holes in it.
I have absolutely no idea how to roll a perforated brass sheet in to a tube 1.5mm dia without it just folding into a hex tube long the holes :)
You are right Paddy, if you just take it and try to roll it, the part will tend to bend along the roll of holes. Carefully heat it until it glows red to orange with a propane torch, Then take a semi soft rubber mat, set the part on it and then roll a small stiff steel wire over the brass part against the mat and it should curve up nicely.

Of course there is Don't over heat the part and when rolling the part, keep the roller square.
 
I used to be a toolmaker and we had a "mangle" set of rollers that you could run sheet metal through to curve it depending on the dia of the rollers so i get the principal :) TBH i wonder if it will be so small it will not notice anyway but i will give it a try :)
 
How do you place a hot part on a rubber matt with out it melting the matt? Gary S. XLV MMXX

The part just has to be heated until it turns red hot and can then cool. It is now annealed and soft and will roll smoothly instead of bending at the lines of holes. The brass sheet actually cools quite quickly.
 
I have to do some of that to the pe I have for various kits. However, pe origami makes me sad.:confused:
 
For those who might think the Westland Lynx is just another boring helicopter i thought this might interest you all stateside.
This is the fastest military helicopter and fully aerobatic. :) now retired from British army and Royal navy service


Enjoy :) Put it on full screen
 
Quick round up of where we are...
DSC_1670.JPG


Cant really put off the masking of the glass any longer.....Most of the PE is done.
Work out how to do the tail fold and get the main rotors into a folded position.
I also need to get the door sorted for the radio dept.
England is back in full lockdown as of Wednesday 4th so plenty of time to make some advancement here :)

DSC_1672.JPG
 
So this is the end of week report :)

DSC_1687.JPG
DSC_1685.JPG


Heading towards getting some paint on. i want to pose it with the doors open but will use them to mask the interior by spraying with them shut (they dont slide). I want to pose the cockpit doors open as well but i will try and use them as a mask in the closed position as well but not sure of the fit yet....Loads of detail to add but i need to get a general over coat on first. The box shows a built model with heavy weathering and pre shaded panel lines which looks really good..........but try as i might have not found a picture of a real lynx in anything but pristine condition.
The Royal navy tend to keep their kit/ships in A1 condition. Aircraft are washed down after every flight to remove salt water spray and any chips are touched in by hand to stop corrosion. So i think it will be a general overall good finish rather than weatherd.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Mo_
I spent a long time puzzling over the undercarriage legs :) I seem to have two of the same side...
what makes it worse is the legs come off two identical spru's so they must be the same...
The instructions clearly show a left and right side ?
anyway having studied loads of pictures on Google it looks like they used the same leg on each side so one has the linkage point forward and the other to the rear thus...
DSC_1693.JPG DSC_1694.JPG

So although the instructions you would think were right they are in fact wrong. Not a great problem but the steps on either side of the doors are made up of 6 parts and none of the part numbers in the instructions match the parts on the spru's. This coupled with all the bits i have gone to fit to find no holes because the instructions dont tell you which holes to open up :) and you wonder how hard would it be to get a model maker to just assemble a kit with the instructions before they go into production.
the green areas are canvas type flotation bags and will be toned down later :)
 
Back
Top