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OK.. So how do I....

Barney

Well-known member
Brothers and Sisters, Plastic addicts all... :coolio

A friend has sent me several single engine (little bitty things) 1/72 kits, in the hopes that I have room to build them vs. the 1/48 and 1/32 kits that are left in the stash. :popcorn

I had been using an AB for just about everything, but that is not an option in my current digs. Enamel paint is also not a great idea as I don't want to bother anyone with the SMELL of paint thinner... :drinks

Any ideas on what acryls to use? Brush painting techniques? Saints to pray to? :geek

I have tried Vallejo before and just didn't like it... PolyS is gone... What about italeri? Humbrol? Agama?


I have the following kits to work on.... all 1/72 Revell... F4F, Ki43, P-39. PZL11. I-16, Cr42, P-26. DXX111, and a couple of others I cannot remember right now...
 
I was going to say the Vallejo but you're already shooting it down. ModelColor line would be what you want. What problem did you have with them?
 
Hey Barney, as you know I build 1/72 scale almost exclusively so if you need any help let me know. As for acrylic paints my selection here in my area is limited to Tamiya and Model Master Acrylics. I prefer the Model Master acrylics when I can get them (have to drive farther to get them) because they are easier to clean up and they have a better color selection. I use the Tamiya thinner X-20A for both. Neither needs much thinner but I add a couple drops anyway to help with the dry tip effect. I buy the big square bottle of the thinner and it lasts for a long time.

Oh yeah, make sure you use a primer before painting or your masking will pull the paint off.
 
Citadel or Gamesworkshop paints brush quite well, straight from the containers. Our local Hobbytown USA carries them, but another source would be any place that sells war gaming supplies. Their washes are swell too.

Best wishes!

(y)
 
I was using the AB stuff and had nothing but trouble with it... might be mo, but sometimes you just have better luck with something else... I'll look at the regular brush stuff...
 
I'd like to hear what you found wrong with Vallejo. I love them through the AB or by hand brush. They have extenders and retarders if they dry too fast for you and it's really best applied with a red sable brush using a wet pallet. They also market all the RLM, RAL, etc colors, plus varnishes, mediums and weathering products.

Them, Andrea or Reaper would be my choice, especially if the smell of solvents is an issue. Tamiya acrylics are ether based, they will not make others in the area happy.
 
Citadel or Gamesworkshop paints brush quite well, straight from the containers. Our local Hobbytown USA carries them, but another source would be any place that sells war gaming supplies. Their washes are swell too.

Best wishes!

(y)

Yes, I use these too and love them for all my detail painting and sometimes even through my airbrush (though they need some thinning). The Runefang steel makes a good NMF alternative.

Just be aware that they have recently changed their line up of paints and have them grouped in three categories. Base, Layer and Dry. The dry paints are intended for dry brushing so you will not be able to use it like normal paint. The base and layers paints you will be able to use as usual.
 
Tamiya paint airbrushes perfectly using 91% isopropyl alcohol- available at your local drugstore, grocery, etc. I use it all the time- and their flat white goes on without a fight.
 
Tamiya paint airbrushes perfectly using 91% isopropyl alcohol- available at your local drugstore, grocery, etc. I use it all the time- and their flat white goes on without a fight.


I totally agree with what Chuck said . :good: I don't find that Tamiya goes on well with a brush except with Gunze self leveling thinner ( but it smells )

Cheers, Christian B)
 
I'd like to hear what you found wrong with Vallejo. I love them through the AB or by hand brush. They have extenders and retarders if they dry too fast for you and it's really best applied with a red sable brush using a wet pallet. They also market all the RLM, RAL, etc colors, plus varnishes, mediums and weathering products.

Them, Andrea or Reaper would be my choice, especially if the smell of solvents is an issue. Tamiya acrylics are ether based, they will not make others in the area happy.

I would say the retarder is required, if I use just water to thin Vallejo I'm constantly battling the dry tip problems and spitting airbrush.

Barney the Model Color brand of Vallejo is much thicker than the Model Air, I'd rather thin down Model Color for spraying than using Model Air out of the bottle.
 
Chuck: Thanks for the tip about Tamiya... I'll have to check the store in my new town...

Vaelljo just would not work for me... I tried the retarder, their thinner anything I could think of... it just always spit and when I did get a good coat down... it would pull off... might be just me...

I can't run my compressor in the apartment... WAY too noisy... I tried it and even though I know the downstairs neighbor won't complain (he practices his bassoon and gives lessons) I am not too sure of the 85 year old "unplucked rose" on the first floor... looking for a seperate airtank.

Meanwhile... thanks for the AB tips... what about brush painting?
 
Sounds like an interesting neighborhood, Barney! I do all my brushwork with Vallejo standard paints- oh, and Lifecolor, too. I've heard they're vinyl-based, much like animation cell painting stuff. Goes on like magic!

Good luck in the new joint, my friend!
 
I would ask Hubert (Dewertus) as he exclusively brush painted before he got his airbrush and did a fantastic job. The paints he uses are from Agama.

Regards,
 
Chuck: Thanks for the tip about Tamiya... I'll have to check the store in my new town...

Vaelljo just would not work for me... I tried the retarder, their thinner anything I could think of... it just always spit and when I did get a good coat down... it would pull off... might be just me...

I can't run my compressor in the apartment... WAY too noisy... I tried it and even though I know the downstairs neighbor won't complain (he practices his bassoon and gives lessons) I am not too sure of the 85 year old "unplucked rose" on the first floor... looking for a seperate airtank.

Meanwhile... thanks for the AB tips... what about brush painting?

Many of the smaller airbrush compressors are fairly to very quiet. So maybe in the future a new upgrade may help.

Also if you put your compressor on a sound deadening mat and/or in a cabinet, that too can reduce the ambient noise.

Sound deadening material can be found at any big box store and also get Soft Rubber feet to put your compressor on (replacing any hard rubber feet).
Sound and vibration are not your friends so any reduction of either or both will go along way to a happier life
 
Chuck: Thanks for the tip about Tamiya... I'll have to check the store in my new town...

Vaelljo just would not work for me... I tried the retarder, their thinner anything I could think of... it just always spit and when I did get a good coat down... it would pull off... might be just me...

I can't run my compressor in the apartment... WAY too noisy... I tried it and even though I know the downstairs neighbor won't complain (he practices his bassoon and gives lessons) I am not too sure of the 85 year old "unplucked rose" on the first floor... looking for a seperate airtank.

Meanwhile... thanks for the AB tips... what about brush painting?

Maybe she's hard of hearing...

I have a noisy Sears air compressor, the kind for nail guns, small air tools, in the closet of my
model room. It is noisy, but only runs about 2 minutes, then I have enough air for a good air brush
session.

Tom
 
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