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Latest Acquisitions Revisited!

Latest Acquisitions

Have a few little things to add to the list and one big one. First the big one.

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Then I noticed last Friday that Sprue Bros had one of the Zoki Mura PE sets I was wanting. Looked a little further and they also had the Kettenkrad and the PE set for it too. Then looked at the daily special and spotted something that piqued my interest for a good price.

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The only bad thing about the ZM aftermarket PE is that all the instructions are in Japanese. That and no little cryptic symbology to help just their unreadable print. :bang head You would think that they would have at least some English explanations for the odd important stuff since the only folks that can read Japanese are the Japanese. (and not always them!) I could translate most European languages with a little work but not the Asian stuff.

That's all for now.
 
Latest Acquisitions

The only bad thing about the ZM aftermarket PE is that all the instructions are in Japanese. That and no little cryptic symbology to help just their unreadable print.

If Eduard etched them, I am sure they probably have some instructions for their version or a similarly engineered one.

Regards,
 
Latest Acquisitions

Got some things in but the camera is holding my pics hostage. So got a Roden Fokker Dr I with PE and decals and a Roden Albatros D.III. Also from Shapeways I got some cool goodies that look better from their site than from my camera anyways. Some trolley wheels for my HB W.29 and W.12. These are spoked and look more interesting the the kit parts. Either trolley wheel works though.



A Davis recoiless rifle for my Felixstowe



And to give an idea of what it will look like.

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And a drivers compartment for my Meng Shilka.


Just press the pic for a link.
Monday will bring a bunch more goodies :)
James
 
Latest Acquisitions

Nice haul, love the vacuum pump. Main things to check are if it pulls a full 29 inches of Mercury and how long it takes. With resin you want to choose the pot life so you can mix and pull the vacuum with plenty of spare time (but not too much extra). The silicone has to be vacuumed as well and best if you pull it again after the mold pour.

Keep in mind the oil needs to be clean, moisture free and changed often. You can get it from HVAC suppliers. Anyway you have/can get the manual?

The chamber size should be fine. Everything expands to about 4 times the volume so you run out of room fast and you can't open it to stop spillage. Resin is especially weird under vacuum due to it's viscosity, it expands and then 'boils out'. Those bubbles get everywhere and easily get sucked into the intake if you're not careful.
 
Latest Acquisitions

Nice haul, love the vacuum pump. Main things to check are if it pulls a full 29 inches of Mercury and how long it takes. With resin you want to choose the pot life so you can mix and pull the vacuum with plenty of spare time (but not too much extra). The silicone has to be vacuumed as well and best if you pull it again after the mold pour.

Keep in mind the oil needs to be clean, moisture free and changed often. You can get it from HVAC suppliers. Anyway you have/can get the manual?

The chamber size should be fine. Everything expands to about 4 times the volume so you run out of room fast and you can't open it to stop spillage. Resin is especially weird under vacuum due to it's viscosity, it expands and then 'boils out'. Those bubbles get everywhere and easily get sucked into the intake if you're not careful.

Thanks for the heads up and advice Jeff! Some of that I was aware of already. As to the unit I'm not sure how long it had been setting. That is part of why I am going through it. The bottom board under the motor and pump is pretty oil soaked and nasty. I will be replacing it with some new plywood. Also the rubber feet under the motor/pump plate are pretty much gone. The oil that I drained out of the pump was pretty nasty also though didn't seem to have any moisture in it.

The biggest thing I started worrying about was debris in the pump. Took a side plate off under the intake and there was a big filter screen cup in there full of gunk. The rest of that area was pretty clean though so that is a good thing. Have not opened the case yet though. I know the seal around the sight window for oil level is completely gone and oil has leaked from that spot on the side of the pump case. Went to wipe it off and the window pressed into the case so it has to be opened up. Am sure I will have to make new gaskets from gasket paper sheet but that is something I have done before on doing old car restoration.

As to a manual on a near 70 year old unit, you are kidding aren't you? :blink :S :rotf
 
Latest Acquisitions

The only bad thing about the ZM aftermarket PE is that all the instructions are in Japanese. That and no little cryptic symbology to help just their unreadable print.

If Eduard etched them, I am sure they probably have some instructions for their version or a similarly engineered one.

Regards,

Saul, Eduard made the PE for them as an O.E.M. deal as these are not available from Eduard, only from Zoki Mura. I have seen that with other PE where Eduard has done the etching for the manufacturer. Makes sense to me as their PE etching is really well done. Where Eduard falls down it seems is getting the parts the right size or a correct shape when Eduard is designing it. I can work with their stuff, but sometimes the person they have designing the PE goofs on the layout which carries over to the finished part. Duh!

Hey, I am a watchmaker, people are always bringing stuff in to get repaired and it is an oddball watch that we have to pull the disassembly procedure out of our south end. Most of this is fairly straight forward, just have to study it a bit to figure out what they are doing. Pictures and drawings do help.
 
Latest Acquisitions

Where Eduard falls down it seems is getting the parts the right size or a correct shape when Eduard is designing it.

This is usually from Eduard designing their etching lay out from previous releases of similar subjects. So the parts do not actually fit the intended kit since it was designed for another. So, it is why I stated to look at similar frets Eduard has for the subject and you may recognize the details and how to fold them.

Regards,
 
Latest Acquisitions

The only bad thing about the ZM aftermarket PE is that all the instructions are in Japanese. That and no little cryptic symbology to help just their unreadable print.

If Eduard etched them, I am sure they probably have some instructions for their version or a similarly engineered one.

Regards,

Saul, Eduard made the PE for them as an O.E.M. deal as these are not available from Eduard, only from Zoki Mura. I have seen that with other PE where Eduard has done the etching for the manufacturer. Makes sense to me as their PE etching is really well done. Where Eduard falls down it seems is getting the parts the right size or a correct shape when Eduard is designing it. I can work with their stuff, but sometimes the person they have designing the PE goofs on the layout which carries over to the finished part. Duh!

Hey, I am a watchmaker, people are always bringing stuff in to get repaired and it is an oddball watch that we have to pull the disassembly procedure out of our south end. Most of this is fairly straight forward, just have to study it a bit to figure out what they are doing. Pictures and drawings do help.

In my opinion if the parts don't fit then they're NOT well done. If you were building/restoring a car engine and the parts didn't fit you'd say they were poorly done. Poor fitting PE parts is largely why I got turned off of PE. If I pay out the big $ that a lot of PE sets cost then I want them to fit. If the PE stuff is oversize you might be able to file/grind it to fit but if it's undersize yo're SOL and out a fair bit of money too.

YMMV

Cheers
 
Latest Acquisitions

Guys! You are missing the point of what I was trying to explain!!! Really has nothing to do with Eduard or their PE. :smack

THIS:
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Is aftermarket PE designed by ZM! The instructions are by ZM! The only thing Eduard did was etch the brass sheet for ZM. It has nothing to do with other Eduard products. :bang head

(Alright I am a bit tired and testy so slap me) :smack

Part of the problem is that there are some machined parts in it as well (on a lathe probably from Master Model). Two of those parts are the railings on the side that have to be bent to shape. No pictures showing where to bend them or how much, it just shows the parts bent to shape with a paragraph of Japanese explanation. There are a number of places in the instructions where there are notes in Japanese about "something" to do with the build, but no way to tell what they are explaining.

Here is a pic of the instruction sheet and why I was commenting on all the Japanese text. Has nothing to do with Eduard at all.

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All I am saying is that they could have explained it using a more universal language than Japanese. Russian would be easier to translate. I guess I will figure out what they are trying to explain when I get around to building it.

As to Eduard PE, I am beginning to see where it isn't all well and good. There always seems to be a percentage that is just a bit over the top or screwed up. The set for the Meng T-90 has a little that is a plus, but probably could have done without it on that kit. I will do an after build write up on that PE set and it probably won't be pretty. :bat

Enough on this now. Who has something new? :woohoo:
 
Latest Acquisitions

Bottom left of instructions, designed and produced by Aber (which makes sense as they offer turned metal products as well as PE).

(Alright I am a bit tired and testy so slap me) :smack

Step away from my antique gold Hamilton! :)


I seem to understand the gist fine but you can contact Volks-USA for a translation.

Email: [email protected] | Phone: 310-782-8324
11:00AM - 6:00PM (Closed on Saturday and Sunday,Holiday)

What I understood from the hieroglyphics ...
Upper left is asking you to emboss the vertical channels into parts 19. Use hard rubber under it.
Next, go down (not to the right) where it repeats to bend to shape using kit parts as example. On the bottom it is showing you the orientation of PE parts 19 to kit parts A-1 and A-2.

Upper right shows you what to remove from kit part A-1 (surely A-2 as well) to replace with metal.

Hope this help s a bit (especially after you rest).

Regards,
 
Latest Acquisitions

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Now back to our regularly scheduled post. I seem to forget what I buy and end up with two!

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Regards,
 
Latest Acquisitions

Thanks Saul! I really wasn't too worried about it. I have a 1/9th scale Kettenkrad on the shelf of doom and a bunch of info to go with it.

Yeah I was a bit testy it was after 2 am and I had been working on several projects late. Got the vacuum plate fully de-rusted (yay) by letting it soak under some stuff called OSPHO which has phosphoric acid in it. I'd let it soak for a couple of hours then rinse and scrub with a little brass wire brush then repeat. After the final soak I scrubbed it with a hard wire steel brush. All rust gone and nice and shiny even though it has some pitting. Primer it and paint now and off on some other stuff.

I do kind of envy you guys that can speak multiple languages. I only speak one other language (usually when overly tired).

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Oh and your Hamilton would be safe with me, I don't touch em when I get tired. Had a watch come in once that we thought was just a calendar watch which turned out to be an annual perpetual calendar (after I disassembled it) . :facepalm Doesn't do the February change but does all the other 30 day and 31 day months. Got to figure out how to set that up from scratch. :hmmm Must have done it right as the customer hasn't complained and it has been over a year. :dance
 
Latest Acquisitions

I have not been able to get pictures, but I got my panzer IV ausf a, some decals for Canadian Sherman including a number from my regiment, the 1st Hussain. I also got the HK B-25J which will be a prize in CTA3.
James
 
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