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Latest Acquisitions Revisited!
- Thread starter tomwes
- Start date
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Latest Acquisitions
The greenhouse parts are gorgeous! Perfectly clear and distortion free. They also have a fair amount of inside framing on them. Can't dip them in Future though as it would mess up the fine framing. Probaby some light Novus polishing will take the slight surface haze on a couple of parts off.
As thin as the parts are, I found minimal to no warping! The tail booms are as straight and as thin as you would find on an injection kit (if not thinner).
The Me-410 is also on my list and I should have the BIG one in my hands in a couple days.
The greenhouse parts are gorgeous! Perfectly clear and distortion free. They also have a fair amount of inside framing on them. Can't dip them in Future though as it would mess up the fine framing. Probaby some light Novus polishing will take the slight surface haze on a couple of parts off.
As thin as the parts are, I found minimal to no warping! The tail booms are as straight and as thin as you would find on an injection kit (if not thinner).
The Me-410 is also on my list and I should have the BIG one in my hands in a couple days.
phantom II
Master at Arms
Latest Acquisitions
:frantic Ahhhh , don't build these for a while .
I have a 1/48 version and a 1/72 that has lots of extras with it.
A very interesting plane but it will distract me to no end if you start building it now :fencing
:frantic Ahhhh , don't build these for a while .
I have a 1/48 version and a 1/72 that has lots of extras with it.
A very interesting plane but it will distract me to no end if you start building it now :fencing
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Latest Acquisitions
Never fear Christian! This is going into the stash and my Meng 1/48th night fighter will be up for sale. (something about it that has never set right with me)
I will do an opening the box review as soon as I get the photos put together. I believe the cost versus value is quit high on this kit as compared to an injection kit with aftermarket, or even some of the more recent high end kits from Tamiya, Zoki Mura, and HK.
Never fear Christian! This is going into the stash and my Meng 1/48th night fighter will be up for sale. (something about it that has never set right with me)
I will do an opening the box review as soon as I get the photos put together. I believe the cost versus value is quit high on this kit as compared to an injection kit with aftermarket, or even some of the more recent high end kits from Tamiya, Zoki Mura, and HK.
phantom II
Master at Arms
Too easily distracted now days 
ausf
Master at Arms
Latest Acquisitions
Wow.
Did you buy direct from them or is there US distribution?
Got my first HPH resin kit and am quite impressed. I had read about how these kits are almost like building a higher end plastic kit and the resin moldings are very thin and superbly well done. A better kit than some of the plastic out there for sure.
I have some more photos of the kit parts all pulled out and set on display. The surface detail is definitely top notch! The clear castings for the glass is clear and virtually distortion free with nice internal detail as well as external.
I would love to see a BV-141 B by these folks in 1/32. It would be awesome!
Wow.
Did you buy direct from them or is there US distribution?
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Latest Acquisitions
Hey Jeff, I got mine from a guy on ebay. I think Sprue Brothers gets some occasionally but can be quite expensive still. Looked on SB the other day and the PBY-5A Catalina from HPH was $900 something which I would be hard pressed to cough up for. I have one I picked up off ebay for about 2/3 that and am now waiting for it to arrive. Hope it is as warp free as this one appears.
The PBY is for a commemorative build I want to do in memory of a friend Jack Foley that flew PBY sub patrol during WW2. :drinks
With patience you can find some fair deals on ebay, just have to watch and wait. :hmmm
Hey Jeff, I got mine from a guy on ebay. I think Sprue Brothers gets some occasionally but can be quite expensive still. Looked on SB the other day and the PBY-5A Catalina from HPH was $900 something which I would be hard pressed to cough up for. I have one I picked up off ebay for about 2/3 that and am now waiting for it to arrive. Hope it is as warp free as this one appears.
The PBY is for a commemorative build I want to do in memory of a friend Jack Foley that flew PBY sub patrol during WW2. :drinks
With patience you can find some fair deals on ebay, just have to watch and wait. :hmmm
Duke Maddog
Well-known member
Latest Acquisitions
Wow, you are a braver man than I Gunga Din! I have a tough enough time with Resin; this would push me over the edge.
I'm looking forward to watching this come together. It will be a thrill to watch a Master at work.
Got my first HPH resin kit and am quite impressed. I had read about how these kits are almost like building a higher end plastic kit and the resin moldings are very thin and superbly well done. A better kit than some of the plastic out there for sure.
I have some more photos of the kit parts all pulled out and set on display. The surface detail is definitely top notch! The clear castings for the glass is clear and virtually distortion free with nice internal detail as well as external.
I would love to see a BV-141 B by these folks in 1/32. It would be awesome!
Wow, you are a braver man than I Gunga Din! I have a tough enough time with Resin; this would push me over the edge.
I'm looking forward to watching this come together. It will be a thrill to watch a Master at work.
ausf
Master at Arms
Latest Acquisitions
An AC kit gives me sweats, a resin AC kit will give me the shakes. :gogo
I'm really interested in the casting though, so who knows, I may try my hand. I think I'd probably either go for the Reichenberg + Ohka kit or chicken out and just build the Arado catapult.
An AC kit gives me sweats, a resin AC kit will give me the shakes. :gogo
I'm really interested in the casting though, so who knows, I may try my hand. I think I'd probably either go for the Reichenberg + Ohka kit or chicken out and just build the Arado catapult.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Latest Acquisitions
Jeff, resin isn't all that difficult. I have been making masters for small parts, then the rubber molds and then multiple parts for several years now. It is actually kind of fun to do. There are tricks to it and basic rules, but overall not scary at all.
In fact the casting process can be a lot of fun. I don't mind making 10 castings so that I can end up with 2 nice parts in the end. The biggest problem is chasing out the odd air bubble usually. I do end up with old resin that will do odd things like make it's own air bubbles as it cures.
You can see them come from nowhere and grow while it sets up. 
Am learning what contributes to that though so usually not a big issue. Bad part? Make another. 
The real trick with resin is to have the tools to cut off the gates, then the sanding and filing things down to the correct size and shape. I do that with a styrene kit so pretty much the same thing when working with resin. Just have to take your time, test fit, adjust, test fit some more, adjust etc. Only thing that is different is that solvent glues don't work. You have to use superglue or epoxy. The grey sci-fi ship in my signature was a real POS compared to this kit. It was a warp city mother and you can see that it went together fairly well (though the walls needed repaint from the sailor language that vented) All it really needs at this point is paint to finish it.
All I can say is that a good resin kit can beat a poor plastic kit any day.
Jeff, resin isn't all that difficult. I have been making masters for small parts, then the rubber molds and then multiple parts for several years now. It is actually kind of fun to do. There are tricks to it and basic rules, but overall not scary at all.
In fact the casting process can be a lot of fun. I don't mind making 10 castings so that I can end up with 2 nice parts in the end. The biggest problem is chasing out the odd air bubble usually. I do end up with old resin that will do odd things like make it's own air bubbles as it cures.
You can see them come from nowhere and grow while it sets up. Am learning what contributes to that though so usually not a big issue. Bad part? Make another. The real trick with resin is to have the tools to cut off the gates, then the sanding and filing things down to the correct size and shape. I do that with a styrene kit so pretty much the same thing when working with resin. Just have to take your time, test fit, adjust, test fit some more, adjust etc. Only thing that is different is that solvent glues don't work. You have to use superglue or epoxy. The grey sci-fi ship in my signature was a real POS compared to this kit. It was a warp city mother and you can see that it went together fairly well (though the walls needed repaint from the sailor language that vented) All it really needs at this point is paint to finish it.
All I can say is that a good resin kit can beat a poor plastic kit any day.
ausf
Master at Arms
Latest Acquisitions
Thanks for taking the time to write that Paul, but I'm no stranger to resin itself, going back many years professionally. I have both vacuum and pressure systems in my shop and have poured more polyester and urethane resins over the years than I care to think of.
My apprehension is the resin AC kit itself, mainly because my modeling background is in armor and figures, both of which easily take to plenty of surface manipulation. AC on the other hand, does not, so I'm always overly cautious regarding surface detail and panel lines. Compound that with the glue issue and the 'spin the wheel' gamble of garage kits, you can see why I'm shy.
I do appreciate that these newer kits are serious efforts of larger companies and will give it a go, but my first reason is the same as always, I'll buy one just to see how they approached the molding, especially the clear parts. Clear resin is an art upon itself and the materials are beyond what a hobbyist should be using in house due to the compounds. Years ago I used to use a Methyl methacrylate for clear on eyeballs, it required stone molds in brass mothers, compressed and cured in a water bath. Today's clear resins are leaps and bounds ahead in terms of ease of work, but come with a heavy price in terms of toxicity.
Another thing is I have never fully trusted CA. When I secure resin, it's usually epoxied and pinned together, impossible with a fuse half, so I have to overcome my skepticisms to expect the assembly to last.
Thanks for taking the time to write that Paul, but I'm no stranger to resin itself, going back many years professionally. I have both vacuum and pressure systems in my shop and have poured more polyester and urethane resins over the years than I care to think of.
My apprehension is the resin AC kit itself, mainly because my modeling background is in armor and figures, both of which easily take to plenty of surface manipulation. AC on the other hand, does not, so I'm always overly cautious regarding surface detail and panel lines. Compound that with the glue issue and the 'spin the wheel' gamble of garage kits, you can see why I'm shy.
I do appreciate that these newer kits are serious efforts of larger companies and will give it a go, but my first reason is the same as always, I'll buy one just to see how they approached the molding, especially the clear parts. Clear resin is an art upon itself and the materials are beyond what a hobbyist should be using in house due to the compounds. Years ago I used to use a Methyl methacrylate for clear on eyeballs, it required stone molds in brass mothers, compressed and cured in a water bath. Today's clear resins are leaps and bounds ahead in terms of ease of work, but come with a heavy price in terms of toxicity.
Another thing is I have never fully trusted CA. When I secure resin, it's usually epoxied and pinned together, impossible with a fuse half, so I have to overcome my skepticisms to expect the assembly to last.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Latest Acquisitions
Hey Jeff, When it comes to CA you will have to find what works for you. Not all CA is the same, and as it ages it's setting up properties change as well. I find that for me what works best for initial assembly is a mix of medium and thin. I do this by placing a drop of medium on the underside of a defunct gents sapphire watch crystal, then add a drop of thinto it and mix. Then using my applicator I add it to a seam until filled and joined. Only thing that doesn't seem to bond strong and hard is PE. PE usually bonds moderately but can be broken loose. Anything else is pretty much bonded for the duration. Another thing I will do is tack parts together with a little medium viscosity. Then will add thin, or a thin+medium mix to the seam and until it is filled. I never appply from the bottle, always with my little wire applicator from a drop on the watch crystal.
Experiment a little is all I can say. Also smooth surfaces, like glass smooth don't seem to bond as well. Slightly roughing up the surface (say 400 or 600 grit) will improve the bond a lot on long seams.
Hey Jeff, When it comes to CA you will have to find what works for you. Not all CA is the same, and as it ages it's setting up properties change as well. I find that for me what works best for initial assembly is a mix of medium and thin. I do this by placing a drop of medium on the underside of a defunct gents sapphire watch crystal, then add a drop of thinto it and mix. Then using my applicator I add it to a seam until filled and joined. Only thing that doesn't seem to bond strong and hard is PE. PE usually bonds moderately but can be broken loose. Anything else is pretty much bonded for the duration. Another thing I will do is tack parts together with a little medium viscosity. Then will add thin, or a thin+medium mix to the seam and until it is filled. I never appply from the bottle, always with my little wire applicator from a drop on the watch crystal.
Experiment a little is all I can say. Also smooth surfaces, like glass smooth don't seem to bond as well. Slightly roughing up the surface (say 400 or 600 grit) will improve the bond a lot on long seams.
Latest Acquisitions
Snark! Say it through your nose.
Snark! Say it through your nose.
Swordsman
Active member
Latest Acquisitions
Nice scores fellers ... I've been kinda out of pocket lately ... but I did manage to score a new item ... I have purchased many ... but personal troubles have taken over my modeling life ... so I tried the new flavor of Blue Bell Ice cream ... which I acquired from the local establish-atory
Not too bad ... but Cookie Two Step (the other new one) is better ... Ya'll enjoy life it is short ... :salute Very interesting Camo pattern if I must say ... :woohoo:
Nice scores fellers ... I've been kinda out of pocket lately ... but I did manage to score a new item ... I have purchased many ... but personal troubles have taken over my modeling life ... so I tried the new flavor of Blue Bell Ice cream ... which I acquired from the local establish-atory
Not too bad ... but Cookie Two Step (the other new one) is better ... Ya'll enjoy life it is short ... :salute Very interesting Camo pattern if I must say ...
:woohoo:
Latest Acquisitions
too bad no decals for this:
Regards,
I have been on a purchase hiatus lately, but this screamed at me
too bad no decals for this:
Regards,
Latest Acquisitions
From Barnes and Nobles 40% off coupon, I was able to order this:
but had to buy this as the price dropped below the $25USD needed for free shipping!
Regards,
From Barnes and Nobles 40% off coupon, I was able to order this:
but had to buy this as the price dropped below the $25USD needed for free shipping!
Regards,
