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AMT International Scout II
- Thread starter Greg Kimsey
- Start date
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Good to see this progressing Greg! Also glad to hear you are doing better. Take it easy and hope it all is fixed this time.
Undersize radiator is going to led to overheating. I can't think of a beach trip we made in my mom's 67 chevy station wagon we didn't have to top to let the 327 small block cool off.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
I wanted to show the modified suspension. Dunno why it makes me so nervous hacking up kit parts to make them (hopefully) better. The leaf springs are def better. I may try to make nuts to go over the plastic ends on the spring plate. I tried using scale thickness strips for the springs but it wouldn't hold the weight. None of my vendors has metal strips more narrow than 1/4". Does anyone know a source for thin & narrow metal strips? K&S doesn't have them, or if they do then my vendors don't stock them.
Any one who's a 4X4 nut would be replacing the stock suspension and putting a lift kit on it anyway. Did you use the kit axel?
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Yes, but I need to shorten it so I will prolly use a metal tube instead.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Gettin' a bit crowded and hard to add something without breaking off something else. Is there such a thing as a glue that holds? I have not found one yet. Three quarters of my time spent on this is regluing something I put on earlier. The seats have come unglued countless times so now the beautiful carpet I made looks like hammered $hishcabob. I am close to finishing but would be closer if I didn't have to do everything six times 
Yes, the plug wires are too big. In scale they would be 1/2" thick which is larger than racing plug wires. I have this size and the size of the small yellow and red wires which equate 3/16" which is too small. I opted for larger than smaller...
Yes, the plug wires are too big. In scale they would be 1/2" thick which is larger than racing plug wires. I have this size and the size of the small yellow and red wires which equate 3/16" which is too small. I opted for larger than smaller...
Rhino
Super Moderator
Not very many kinds of glue adhere to painted surfaces very well, is this, perhaps your trubble, Suh?Gettin' a bit crowded and hard to add something without breaking off something else. Is there such a thing as a glue that holds? I have not found one yet. Three quarters of my time spent on this is regluing something I put on earlier. The seats have come unglued countless times so now the beautiful carpet I made looks like hammered $hishcabob. I am close to finishing but would be closer if I didn't have to do everything six times
View attachment 167182
Yes, the plug wires are too big. In scale they would be 1/2" thick which is larger than racing plug wires. I have this size and the size of the small yellow and red wires which equate 3/16" which is too small. I opted for larger than smaller...
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Entirely possible. It's why I am using Cyano instead of plastic cement. When I have the opportunity I use the Tamiya and it usually holds. But, like, gluing a plastic coated wire into a resin hole is mostly where the issues are worst. IDK. I think I may be getting tired of working on this one. I am ready for what's next! I have trouble with multiple builds space-wise, so I need to finish this before moving on. I may change gears and go draw for a while. I feel like drawing...
I think when you get the breather on and the water hoses it may look busy enough to not notice the wire scale. 
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
I worked a little on Bob's version today. Nothing but kit parts for this one; this one is about the paint. I want this to look extremely well loved and used. I tried a new chipping technique (for ne anyway) where I painted various shades of rust color over the whole model, then seal with either lacquer or enamel. When that dries use a small sponge and kids washable glue and put it where you want rust. Allow to dry then two or three light coats of waterbased paint and allow that to dry. I gave it a couple of hours but think 24 would be better. Wet a toothbrush and start scrubbing. When the paint starts ti loosen up ease off the scrubbing and use more finesse to remove paint just where you want rust. It seems to work OK. I need more practice with it for sure. I forgot to mask off for the stripes so I did that after the initial scrub and put chipping medium just where the rust showed in the masked area.
Three light coats of white later and a toothpick to pick out the rust. It looks OK I think. It is one beat to crap old Scout!
Three light coats of white later and a toothpick to pick out the rust. It looks OK I think. It is one beat to crap old Scout!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
That is looking good Greg! This looks appropriate for the vehicle and type. I see so many folks go all chipped paint and rust crazy with WW2 vehicles and such. They didn't get that bad! They would get some rust on tracks due to wear, but there wasn't much in the way of rust on vehicles in North Africa. There also wasn't salt used on roads during winter, so again unless something was sitting in water, there wasn't usually much in the way of rust.
Nice touch! 
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
There is still some to do. I forgot to make shock absorbers so that is my mission for tomorrow. I tried to make the hood support like the 1/1 vehicle but never could get it to work so I made a prop rod instead. There is some paint touch up as well that needs to be done. She is in the home stretch though...
It has been a skill-set stretching endeavor to say the very least, but I am glad I gave it a go. Some of the hinges (all of the hinges) are fragile AF, so this will be a displayed open Scout without a lot of opening and closing stuff. There has to be a better, more sturdy way to attach the pivot tube for the hinges than epoxy or cyano. I will ponder that. I can hopefully finish this AND Bob's version tomorrow!
I have PT with Tracy, my gorgeous in-home PT therapist. Yay full coverage insurance! Dang, she is cute. ...but 9am? Yucky!! Then, back to the bench to finish up!
It has been a skill-set stretching endeavor to say the very least, but I am glad I gave it a go. Some of the hinges (all of the hinges) are fragile AF, so this will be a displayed open Scout without a lot of opening and closing stuff. There has to be a better, more sturdy way to attach the pivot tube for the hinges than epoxy or cyano. I will ponder that. I can hopefully finish this AND Bob's version tomorrow!
I have PT with Tracy, my gorgeous in-home PT therapist. Yay full coverage insurance! Dang, she is cute. ...but 9am? Yucky!! Then, back to the bench to finish up!
Funny, Cindy only had guys coming out doing her PT. 
This is sharp! I know you're proud of the floor board but a truck that used would have some nasty rug in side. I had a truck that literally had grass growing inside (spilt some fescue seed).
This is sharp! I know you're proud of the floor board but a truck that used would have some nasty rug in side. I had a truck that literally had grass growing inside (spilt some fescue seed).
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Floor board! Yes, I wanted to make floor mats. Also, I forgot the mufflers, which was what all the soldering huballoo was all about. I may not get as far as I had hoped today LOL. I have never made floor mats. Is there advice on what to use? I thought of doubling Tamiya tape sticky to sticky then painting it. If there is a better suggestion I am all ears for it!Funny, Cindy only had guys coming out doing her PT.
This is sharp! I know you're proud of the floor board but a truck that used would have some nasty rug in side. I had a truck that literally had grass growing inside (spilt some fescue seed).
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Thank you so much Paddy! Not going to lie, you are a big part of me stretching my boundaries, so this comment means a lot to me.
Sounds like it'll work. I have no suggestion.
