Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
On a modelling related note finally; I want to solder brass. I have liquid flux and it does not work for brass...at..all. Do I get the stuff for soldering brass fittings from the plumbing isle instead?
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AMT International Scout II
- Thread starter Greg Kimsey
- Start date
not sure what liquid flux you have and the stuff for plumbing is a bit dirty for detail stuff we do. Let me dig some links up, we have all sorts of articles here about it but the photos are probably hosed up.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
This is what I have
you'd think that would be the stuff then. You want to find a good grade solder paste. Again let me do some digging. Work has hit like a ton of bricks this am.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
I thought it would too. I brush the flux. Give it a second and lay solder along the joint. When I apply heat I usually end up with three little perfectly formed marbles to roll around.
are you scrubbing the surfaces you're joining? what exactly are you joining?
Soldering method-1 “Tools”
Soldering is basic technique of the metal working. Presumably many people studied soldering in the electronic work lessons at school and I think this experience causes trouble with soldering in small scale. In the class of the electronic work...
modelersalliance.org
Soldering method-2 “Basic technique”
1.Preparations for work In the electronic work the adhesion quality of the solder is controlled by pushing the solder to the heated base. But in modeling you better chop a little solder from the wire for the iron tip to control the quantity of...
modelersalliance.org
Soldering method-3 “Slight applied technique”
1. Assembling plural parts When you assemble plural parts sequentially, you will face trouble very easy - the part which you assembled earlier comes off because of the heat. If you are used to soldering, you will be able to assemble a part with...
modelersalliance.org
Some very old articles. All the images are gone but the text remains. Watanabesan was very talented modeler, I have no idea what happened to him.
paddy
Well-known member
Usual problem with soldering is over heating, once you over heat you will have problems and need to clean the brass manually. heat the brass and apply the flux, it should just boil on the surface not go fut in a puff of smoke and disappear 
A soldering iron will be better than a flame on a small part. You might even need to flatten your solder and cut it down the middle so its half as thick..
Glad you are home and thinking models again
A soldering iron will be better than a flame on a small part. You might even need to flatten your solder and cut it down the middle so its half as thick..Glad you are home and thinking models again
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
I will read through those Bob, thank you. Paddy, I have tried flame and hot iron. I am going to cut solder into smaller pieces.
I am trying to make a dual exhaust for the scout. I squished a piece of 21mm long ¹/4" alum pipe but didn't like the resulting shape so I was going to "skin" over it. I don't have anything thin enough except in brass so I used that. I used a file to scuff where the joint will be for mechanical adhesion.
I have an in-home nurse visit any time now and after that I will have Gail take me to the store to get my soldering iron (I thought it was here) and some thinner sheet metal in silver.
I am trying to make a dual exhaust for the scout. I squished a piece of 21mm long ¹/4" alum pipe but didn't like the resulting shape so I was going to "skin" over it. I don't have anything thin enough except in brass so I used that. I used a file to scuff where the joint will be for mechanical adhesion.
I have an in-home nurse visit any time now and after that I will have Gail take me to the store to get my soldering iron (I thought it was here) and some thinner sheet metal in silver.
Sometimes I use solder paste but it is expensive and has a short shelf life:
Most of the time, I do as others have suggested, flatten solder wire and cut thin strips as needed.
Most of the time, I do as others have suggested, flatten solder wire and cut thin strips as needed.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Uhhh, huh?Ponkin'.........................
Is is time for an intervention?
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I worked in electronics for over 20 years as a draftsman/tech. The last 10 years were doing PC board layouts, Making film, etching prototype boards, and then placing the electronic components into the boards. Lots of soldering experience.
What I use is Kester soldering paste. I place a tiny little bit on the area I am going to solder, "LIGHTLY" pre-tin the areas on the parts to be soldered, and then place the parts together and start tacking the joint together (when it is sheet metal.) Once it is tacked together I then run the soldering iron (with a little wet solder drop on it) along the rest of the joint to finish joining it fully along the length.
Here is a small section from a build that I have part way done. You might find it interesting.
The PE for this build had a lot of sheet metal to replace fenders, turret, and other items.
This is in my "finish the started builds" pile and will be along sometime after I finish the Ju87A rebuilder. If anyone has any questions, feel free to send a PM or give me a call.
What I use is Kester soldering paste. I place a tiny little bit on the area I am going to solder, "LIGHTLY" pre-tin the areas on the parts to be soldered, and then place the parts together and start tacking the joint together (when it is sheet metal.) Once it is tacked together I then run the soldering iron (with a little wet solder drop on it) along the rest of the joint to finish joining it fully along the length.
Here is a small section from a build that I have part way done. You might find it interesting.
The PE for this build had a lot of sheet metal to replace fenders, turret, and other items.
This is in my "finish the started builds" pile and will be along sometime after I finish the Ju87A rebuilder. If anyone has any questions, feel free to send a PM or give me a call.
I've burned my fingers often on soldering.
I did this with a flame, if I had the soldering station I have now. this would have been another show.
I did this with a flame, if I had the soldering station I have now. this would have been another show.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looks like you have it down Paddy! I only use flux as sometimes the brass isn't as clean as it needs to be and the flux helps the solder to flow and bond.
paddy
Well-known member
About 15 years ago now when i was in engineering full time they did away with lead in solder and most of the jobs i used to do, even soldering brass became a nightmare.
The problem is lead had a very low melting point so you could melt the solder at a reasonably low temp. The modern lead free solders need more heat and that causes real problems. basically if you are using lead free solder your chances of melting the solder without burning off the flux are slim now. Once you have burnt the flux it just works against you by making the brass dirty. in most cases once the joint is over heated or shows darker discoloration you have had it.
Try and find some lead solder and life will be so easy
The problem is lead had a very low melting point so you could melt the solder at a reasonably low temp. The modern lead free solders need more heat and that causes real problems. basically if you are using lead free solder your chances of melting the solder without burning off the flux are slim now. Once you have burnt the flux it just works against you by making the brass dirty. in most cases once the joint is over heated or shows darker discoloration you have had it.
Try and find some lead solder and life will be so easy
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I have plenty of old electronics solder for the little things I will be working on. lf I ever end up needing more than what I have I probably shouldn't be doing the build.
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Sorry for the absense. I HAVE been feeling better. My bout with a tummy bug was no fun what-so-ever, but I have been healing despite that. Oddly enough, the worst pain comes from my ab muscles, not my back incision. They had to separate my ribs on the left side to work between them and deflate my left lung to get to the vertebrae so I guess that has something to do with it. IDK really. No one else does either. I have muscle relaxers to help with that finally.
I have worked on the Scout as I feel up to it. As with most of my models, as well as my chess game, my opening and mid-game moves are pretty strong, then things deteriorate toward the end-game. I do have the model painted and the decal, as difficult as it was, is in place. I was afraid I was going to have to mask and paint the graphics!:
Due to the way I am building and accessorizing I found that I had to put the body onto the chassis before I would have liked to. All of this scratch building and kit changing is not fluid for me yet. So, I will have to add the windshield and other glass after final painting and weathering, which I hope I can do. Fortunately, they are all flat with no curves or fiddly parts to deal with. I had the radiator in place but found that the engine would not go in due to the thickness, despite measuring. I never saw a way to test fit anything really. So, I removed the radiator, took it apart and thinned the main body about .5mm, then trimmed the grill placement area another .5mm. I also moved the engine mount back about 4mm. Test fitting looked promising. I will need to shorted the drive shaft by 4mm:
The engine has gone better than expected with all of the additions. I still have not worked out the steering box and shaft. I hope it can still be done. I finally gave up after 2 days trying to make spark plug boots and cheated, buying some 3D printed ones which came in today. I will install the wires before installing the engine, then see what I need to do with the radiator.
I have worked on the Scout as I feel up to it. As with most of my models, as well as my chess game, my opening and mid-game moves are pretty strong, then things deteriorate toward the end-game. I do have the model painted and the decal, as difficult as it was, is in place. I was afraid I was going to have to mask and paint the graphics!:
Due to the way I am building and accessorizing I found that I had to put the body onto the chassis before I would have liked to. All of this scratch building and kit changing is not fluid for me yet. So, I will have to add the windshield and other glass after final painting and weathering, which I hope I can do. Fortunately, they are all flat with no curves or fiddly parts to deal with. I had the radiator in place but found that the engine would not go in due to the thickness, despite measuring. I never saw a way to test fit anything really. So, I removed the radiator, took it apart and thinned the main body about .5mm, then trimmed the grill placement area another .5mm. I also moved the engine mount back about 4mm. Test fitting looked promising. I will need to shorted the drive shaft by 4mm:
The engine has gone better than expected with all of the additions. I still have not worked out the steering box and shaft. I hope it can still be done. I finally gave up after 2 days trying to make spark plug boots and cheated, buying some 3D printed ones which came in today. I will install the wires before installing the engine, then see what I need to do with the radiator.
