AMT International Scout II

[Greg Kimsey]

I had started on the bumper several days ago but was waiting for some steel plating styrene to come in. This is the bumper and winch I am replicating

Here are my parts so far:

If anyone has a suggestion on how to make the tow hook I would be grateful. None of my sources have them in 1/24 scale. The cable I have. Thanks for looking!

 

[Heavens Eagle]

When working with carbide bits, they are super for drilling holes, but as they are carbide, they will break. When drilling things out like you did Greg, I found it works best to use a Dremel with the separate speed control to slow it way down. Then let the Dremel and drill do the work. When you try to drill the holes by hand it is almost impossible to keep from moving the bit side to side and such. Also if you put any force on the bit it will snap immediately. Here is an example:

Clear plastic is usually harder and more brittle than colored plastics. I used one drill bit to drill all the holes without any trouble, but used my Dremel and just drilled the holes straight through at the panel line.

To slow the Dremel down I use the very old separate speed control which makes drilling holes in plastic a breeze. It also helps when cutting grinding and doing just about anything as Dremels always run too fast, even the ones with speed control on them (like the one below) Note that the speed control on the Dremel itself is at full speed. The separate speed control does all the work.

If you are interested in finding one of the speed controls they are easy to find for reasonable prices on ebay. I use mine ALL THE TIME!

 

[Greg Kimsey]

When working with carbide bits, they are super for drilling holes, but as they are carbide, they will break. When drilling things out like you did Greg, I found it works best to use a Dremel with the separate speed control to slow it way down. Then let the Dremel and drill do the work. When you try to drill the holes by hand it is almost impossible to keep from moving the bit side to side and such. Also if you put any force on the bit it will snap immediately. Here is an example:

Clear plastic is usually harder and more brittle than colored plastics. I used one drill bit to drill all the holes without any trouble, but used my Dremel and just drilled the holes straight through at the panel line.

View attachment 165868

To slow the Dremel down I use the very old separate speed control which makes drilling holes in plastic a breeze. It also helps when cutting grinding and doing just about anything as Dremels always run too fast, even the ones with speed control on them (like the one below) Note that the speed control on the Dremel itself is at full speed. The separate speed control does all the work.

View attachment 165869

If you are interested in finding one of the speed controls they are easy to find for reasonable prices on ebay. I use mine ALL THE TIME!

I have the dremel with speed control and a foot pedal with further speed control and that is what I used to cut away the openings with a very slow speed. I only had two carbide bits that were small enough and each worked for a long time before breaking, but both eventually did. I don't have a dremel bit smaller than 1/8" which is WAY too big. I have a set of diamond dust bits that are small, but almost worthless...for anything really. I used the smallest one and scraped by hand and it was faster than using the dremel. It got done though.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Bumper and winch continued. It went well enough. The tank on the left is for oil I guess since it has a screw cap. For the "bolts" I used various sizes of hex styrene rods. Man, it is hard to cut those little suckers straight. Here are some progression shots...

For the cable I put two strands of .085" wire into a pin vice and spun it to make a nice tight cable. It is wrapped around the center cylinder and glued down. No, it is NOT going to actually work, sorry!
I used .04od brass tube for the connecting rods and put a .02 brass rod through it and into drilled holes in the .02" styrene sheet squares at each end of the center cylinder

I cut the opening in the bumper and superglued the winch in place.

I cut a rectangle hole for the cable rollers and used .07 half round styrene rod to simulate the horizontal rollers and .065"od brass tube for the vertical rollers. .01" styrene sheet was cut to shape for the roller brackets and superglued top and bottom, with a small hex "bolt" for each roller.

Next I need to figure out how to make the tow hook.
That's it! You are up to date. Thanks for looking!

 

[moon puppy]

Looks really good. The screw cap you talk about is the rubber rain cap for the remote control connecter, or could be power. Pretty sure the one you are modeling is not hydraulic. Looks great!

 

[Rhino]

Shapes and Shaping, Baby! Well played, Mr. (F) Artfull!!

 

[Greg Kimsey]

I figured out a way to make the hook. I used my smallest brass tube and bent it into a hook shape with my round nose pliers then used a hammer to schmoosh it flat, hammering just the hook part. I cut off the tube, leaving a little tube at the top of the hook. I used my flat smooth jaw pliers and flattened that remaining portion of the tube at 90° from how the hook was flattened. I shaped it with a file into a rounded end then drilled a .02" hole for a short piece of wire to pass through. I made a loop with the wire and twisted it to hold it fast the slipped the end into the roller hole and superglued in place. You guys will be the only ones who knows it isn't actually connected to the winch. Please don't tell anyone!

 

[moon puppy]

Now that's fabrication!

 

[Heavens Eagle]

So far so good Greg!

 

[Greg Kimsey]

I thought I'd have a go at the windshield defrost vents. They are a little raised in the reference with a small lip around the opening. I took Paul's (@Heavens Eagle )advice and drilled holes first then routing them out with the Dremel. I thought I took a photo of the series of holes but must have been mistaken. To make the raised lip I am cutting oversized openings, then will use .08 styrene to fill the void, letting it sit a little proud of the surface.

Still using Paul's drill/route trick I scribed a line down the center to help keep the bit in line as much as possible.

I had to make several attempts to keep from blowing out the sides.

The one on the left is one if the fails.

Well, I must have forgotten to take sequence photos again, because here is the final result and a lot happened between that last photo and this one.

Anyhow, just another day at the office. I am working on the radiator and fan shroud next.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

So far so good Greg!

Honestly, yeah, so far so good, but the farther I get into it, the less confident I feel about being able to accomplish what I have set out to do. To take a bare minimum piece of crap kit and make it spectacular. Whatever happens, I know I will have done my best.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

The radiator and shroud is done. I used .08 styrene for the radiator. I applied a metal mesh screen from KA Models' "Detail Excites" line to both sides. I used two laters of .01" styerene to the shroud side; one to space for the screen thickness, and the other as a base for the shroud. I cut a .65" circle with my little circle cutter

Then used .015"x.025" styrene strip to encircle the opening. I scraped several times with a hobby knife to make the styrene bow into a circle much like scraping ribbon to make curly q's for party decorating.

The cap is a .125" tube with .08" rod inside, then topped with the head of an ento pin. A little piece of ento pin stick out for the overflow. The "screws" are tiny pieces of .02" styrene rod.

I cut out the molded radiator mesh from the front so the much better looking metal mesh can show. I covered the openings that were to either side of that with .02 styrene.

Hopefully this will all line up with the engine fan!

 

[moon puppy]

 

[paddy]

Blimy, i look away for a few days and you almost finished , i do agree with the why not buy a better kit thing but like you i bought Revells e-type because there is nothing better on the market, even the DeAgostini £1000 job is bloody awful...BUT...that's the challenge of modeling to maybe build something other than the norm. Imagine going to a show and seeing 200 1/32 Tamiya spitfires and nothing else..

Those micro drill that are flooding the market/ebay are PCB drills ,over here you can still buy HSS drills down .3mm or about 7thou
Great job you are doing and it looks like its a lot of fun and thats what its all about.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Blimy, i look away for a few days and you almost finished , i do agree with the why not buy a better kit thing but like you i bought Revells e-type because there is nothing better on the market, even the DeAgostini £1000 job is bloody awful...BUT...that's the challenge of modeling to maybe build something other than the norm. Imagine going to a show and seeing 200 1/32 Tamiya spitfires and nothing else..

Those micro drill that are flooding the market/ebay are PCB drills ,over here you can still buy HSS drills down .3mm or about 7thou
Great job you are doing and it looks like its a lot of fun and thats what its all about.

I am having a blast and it has been hard to leave the worktable! Gail asks why am I so obsessed with this one. I don't have an answer for her...

I have done a lot of things I have never done or tried on this one. I even put the ceiling detail panels which will be nearly impossible to see, but the reference does so I put them. Thank you for the great encouragement!

 

[Heavens Eagle]

So far so good Greg. The more you do this the pickier you will get with doing more and more detail. Little did you know how bad AMS was going to strike.

 

[Greg Kimsey]

I thought I would give the coolant and windshield washer fluid reservoirs a go. I am mostly guessing at the sizes, but I think I will be in the ballpark. The shapes are close, but I think impossible (for me) to make them accurately in clear polystyrene sheet. I have given thought to using translucent Sculpey, but am trying this first. Since the real ones are translucent but not clear I have sanded the outside surface. The color is resin colored with either Tamiya clear blue or green. The little black thing is the pump for the washer fluid.

 

[moon puppy]

Very creative!

 

[Greg Kimsey]

Two things got done today, well, 3, but one only took about 5 minutes.
I am making this bumper for my Scout...

I started with a doodle sketch to work out the parts list...

Then a real size scale sketch. I put measurements on it later.

The humble beginnings. Backplate and bottom plate .

I glued the .2 square styrene tube mounting bar to the underside.

I really really meant to take more sequence photos. A whole lot of stuff happened between that last photo and this one...but it's done. To wrap the .03 styrene around the curves I cut a piece of .04 styrene the same shape as the top plate but a little smaller so it was inset a little. I then did my scraping curly Q trick to get the curve started. I decided to use medium viscosity CA glue and accellerant so that the Tamiya glue would not split the plastic like it seems happens on these thicker pieces.

The bottom is hollow like the bumper on the reference. The back plate is shorter so it sits inside the body panel inner width, and the bumper extends past the body

A teaser "in place" shot from the back and bottom.

Next up was the 5 minute oil filter replacement. .125 styrene round rod makes the top portion and matching hex styrene rod makes the bottom ¼. There is a .04 styrene rod through both pieces and into the engine. It comes off for painting.

Next up, and I sincerely apologize for not taking sequence photos of this because it is pretty cool. There is still some fine sanding to do, but the shapes are all made and assembled.
Booster and Master Cylinder. The whole thing is styrene except the cap hold down wire which is size 15 fly tying lead.

That's it. It has been a long day and I am tired! G'night y'all!

 

[moon puppy]

Love it, from a technical perspective that receiver for the hitch would be attached to that cross member not the bumper. Just add a bit of triangular stock as a flange on either side of the receiver and you're golden.