Very clean line work Tim. 
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1/96 scale USS Constitution build.
- Thread starter Tim A.
- Start date
Tim A.
Well-known member
Thanks Bob. Because I'm modifying each pulley block and using actual Bullseyes, deadeyes hearts etc it can take me a few hours to rig just a couple of lines. That can make for a pretty boring build to follow.Very clean line work Tim.
Tim A.
Well-known member
Thanks Steve. It's my 3rd go around with this kit. This is farther then I've gotten with the previous attempts. I'm realizing that whoever drew up the kit's rigging plan wasn't to sure where the lines went either...lol.
Rhino
Super Moderator
Can you imagine the mess Trumpeter might have made of such instructions in translation?
"You tree-trunk long thingies in holes in floor. Put on wire spider-web rope thread to hold tree trunk up. Stick big blankie bed cloth to tree branch. Do best work boat play model, Yankee Plick!"
"You tree-trunk long thingies in holes in floor. Put on wire spider-web rope thread to hold tree trunk up. Stick big blankie bed cloth to tree branch. Do best work boat play model, Yankee Plick!"
Tim A.
Well-known member
You did that well, almost to well...like your really the guy that writes thier instructionsCan you imagine the mess Trumpeter might have made of such instructions in translation?
"You tree-trunk long thingies in holes in floor. Put on wire spider-web rope thread to hold tree trunk up. Stick big blankie bed cloth to tree branch. Do best work boat play model, Yankee Plick!"
.
Tim A.
Well-known member
Today was kind of all over the map with the build. First I had to replace all of the mast's (there's 16 on the channels) backstay deadeyes. They are smaller than the shroud deadeyes. I knew this yet I still did them the wrong size
.
Then I realized I had forgotten to add the Spencer mast when I glued the mizzen mast to the hull. With a little modification and fidgeting I was able to get it installed.
Third pic is how I'm modifying the kit's pulley blocks. I cut off the moulded on strop rings and file notches in the corners to catch the line. Their much better without that clunky ring.
. Then I realized I had forgotten to add the Spencer mast when I glued the mizzen mast to the hull. With a little modification and fidgeting I was able to get it installed.
Third pic is how I'm modifying the kit's pulley blocks. I cut off the moulded on strop rings and file notches in the corners to catch the line. Their much better without that clunky ring.
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Holy Crap, on all of them? Looks well worth the effort. Looks great.
Tim A.
Well-known member
Haven't timed myself but it takes about 5 minutes to do a block.Holy Crap, on all of them? Looks well worth the effort. Looks great.
Rhino
Super Moderator
Great Gobs of Goose Poop! 5 minutes for EVERY block? Are there 100 blocks? Nevermind about boring ME!
I am enthralled by this whole build AND I'm taking notes!
Tim A.
Well-known member
Right!
Tim A.
Well-known member
Glad your following along Rhino!Great Gobs of Goose Poop! 5 minutes for EVERY block? Are there 100 blocks? Nevermind about boring ME!
I am enthralled by this whole build AND I'm taking notes!
Rhino
Super Moderator
I found this guide to the mast & sail nomenclature of HMS Bounty. Rest your mouse on the part of the masts & rigging you want to the name of.
This way those of us that are curious will seem well versed in sailing ship part names.
SHHHhhh! Don't tell Tim how we're cheating!
Tim A.
Well-known member
Cool
There was a lot of interest to restore the ship back to it's former glory in the 1920's. The restoration began in 1927 I think.
Tim A.
Well-known member
Cool
A good reason to put on popcorn and the tricorn.
Tim A.
Well-known member
The mizzen mast's top, topgallant and royal stays as well as it's backstays are done. I'm glad I replaced the kit's plastic topgallant and royal masts with wood. The line tension would make it near impossible to keep the plastic ones straight. It's hard enough to do it with the stiffer wooden ones. Everything has to be done in a proper sequence to keep from warping these smaller masts.
For adding the stays the kit instructions say to start at the foremast then the main and finally the mizzen. But the jib lines wanted to pull the foremast out of alignment. So, I'm doing the opposite, rigging forward. It seems to be working better for me. All of the shroud's ratlines will be added later on down the road because they'll be all in the way when doing the running rigging.
the main mast's stays will keep the foremast from bending forward.
For adding the stays the kit instructions say to start at the foremast then the main and finally the mizzen. But the jib lines wanted to pull the foremast out of alignment. So, I'm doing the opposite, rigging forward. It seems to be working better for me. All of the shroud's ratlines will be added later on down the road because they'll be all in the way when doing the running rigging.
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Man that's tall!
