Medium sea gray...I'll see if I got a match. Anyone calls me on it I'm sending them to you! 
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Wingnut Wings Moon Pup
- Thread starter moon puppy
- Start date
bobs_buckles
Beginner
You will always have someone more qualified than me to put you right ;-)
Happy days!
Von Buckle
Happy days!
Von Buckle
Fashion statement? I got nothin'....
jknaus
Administrator
props
"Reinforcing the Wood
All wooden propellers, with rare exceptions, are laminated. This has more to do with the efficiencies of cutting, drying, and milling of the materials than anything else. Additional strength could be obtained by using additional materials, like fabric and metal.
Many wooden propellers have fabric wrapped around the tips, or sometimes extending the length of much of the blade. Some early propellers even used animal hide, such as pigskin for this purpose. The wrapping improved the strength of the ends of the propeller, particularly to splitting. As testimony to the strength of oak mentioned above, it should be noted that many oak propellers do not have fabric tips, whereas almost all mahogany and walnut propellers do (at least as originally manufactured.) Most propellers that appear to have painted tips, on closer inspection will be found to have fabric beneath the paint.
Metal sheathing was added to some early propellers, but by 1913 there were so many fatal accidents in Europe from throwing off sheet metal that the whole practice of sheathing was nearly abandoned for some time. The need for sheathing, however, became apparent with propellers used by flying boats, so after carefully calculating and testing the methods for attaching the sheathing, the practice was re-instituted several years later. Copper, tin, and monel were all used along the tips and leading edges of many propellers. Typically, the sheathing was applied to the tips and held in place with either screws or through rivets, the exposed heads of which were then soldered and smoothed down. Sheathing has continued to be used in manufacturing of propellers to this day, although plastic and epoxy have replaced the traditional metal in most of them. "
Cool search. Interesting stuff.
James
"Reinforcing the Wood
All wooden propellers, with rare exceptions, are laminated. This has more to do with the efficiencies of cutting, drying, and milling of the materials than anything else. Additional strength could be obtained by using additional materials, like fabric and metal.
Many wooden propellers have fabric wrapped around the tips, or sometimes extending the length of much of the blade. Some early propellers even used animal hide, such as pigskin for this purpose. The wrapping improved the strength of the ends of the propeller, particularly to splitting. As testimony to the strength of oak mentioned above, it should be noted that many oak propellers do not have fabric tips, whereas almost all mahogany and walnut propellers do (at least as originally manufactured.) Most propellers that appear to have painted tips, on closer inspection will be found to have fabric beneath the paint.
Metal sheathing was added to some early propellers, but by 1913 there were so many fatal accidents in Europe from throwing off sheet metal that the whole practice of sheathing was nearly abandoned for some time. The need for sheathing, however, became apparent with propellers used by flying boats, so after carefully calculating and testing the methods for attaching the sheathing, the practice was re-instituted several years later. Copper, tin, and monel were all used along the tips and leading edges of many propellers. Typically, the sheathing was applied to the tips and held in place with either screws or through rivets, the exposed heads of which were then soldered and smoothed down. Sheathing has continued to be used in manufacturing of propellers to this day, although plastic and epoxy have replaced the traditional metal in most of them. "
Cool search. Interesting stuff.
James
Thanks James. I really did think the tips were painted just for visual warning. So, my prop will be painted with some wood grain exposed.
I am amazed how quickly the build goes once you get out of the cockpit. glad I didn't obsess to much over the throttle because you like totally can't see it now.
Did a lot of neat things in there. shame I didn't get any shots of it before sealing it up. Can't see it now. Busted both my #80 and 79 drill bits drilling out the holes for the elevator control cables. Calling up Drill Bit City in the morning to replenish.
Moving forward now and I guess the next thing to do is start painting black.
Did a lot of neat things in there. shame I didn't get any shots of it before sealing it up. Can't see it now. Busted both my #80 and 79 drill bits drilling out the holes for the elevator control cables. Calling up Drill Bit City in the morning to replenish.
Moving forward now and I guess the next thing to do is start painting black.
Thanks James. Mike had asked me the other day how it was going together, I forgot to answer him. It's going together like a dream. I really love the positive positioning tabs and alignment of the kit. Can't wait to get my hands on another. Another thing about this, after the number of 1:32 scale aircraft I've done, you get a sense of how small these aircraft were. Those were brave men who first flew those flying machines.
Laura, you were going to coach me on this, I know you don't want me spraying straight black. can't remember what mix I'm doing now.
Laura, you were going to coach me on this, I know you don't want me spraying straight black. can't remember what mix I'm doing now.
phantom II
Master at Arms
Hey Bob,
just when I though you got hospitalized for overindulging you show up
.
The kit looks really good. All i have heard and read about these kits have been very positive. Keep up the good work.
Keep us apraised on the black paint job. I have been somewhat intimidated by those night fighter paint jobs.
Cheers, Christian B)
just when I though you got hospitalized for overindulging you show up
.The kit looks really good. All i have heard and read about these kits have been very positive. Keep up the good work.
Keep us apraised on the black paint job. I have been somewhat intimidated by those night fighter paint jobs.
Cheers, Christian B)
I'm well practiced at overindulgence sir, the idea of having to be hospitalized for something I'm born for..
I ran into one little problem but it was self inflicted and will know better on the next Wingnut Wing build I do. Basically I just over thought the situation and forced something in place that didn't need forcing.
I ran into one little problem but it was self inflicted and will know better on the next Wingnut Wing build I do. Basically I just over thought the situation and forced something in place that didn't need forcing.
Tally Ho! Bob's Buckles showed up. Worked on the engine some, very nice design, simple yet well detailed.
Looking forward to start painting. Getting my ducks in a row, should not be long.
Looking forward to start painting. Getting my ducks in a row, should not be long.
Painting black, didn't really know it was so much to it. Taking Laura's suggestion I mixed about a 7-3 ratio of black to flesh, in my case it was tan, maybe not as light as what flesh would have been. That was the base coat. Then adjusted the mix darker and darker till I got pretty close to pure black and I hit that on the rib tape and leading/trailing edges. The mixed color seemed to be more semigloss than glossy. I will come back with a clear gloss coat to get a uniformed finish for the decals. Then some filters, washes weathering...and RIGGING!
I forgot the upper wings will be PC10 (OD) on the outer parts. Just that central section is black.
I like this angle...
Here's the engine installed. Various metalizers, need spark wires and some washing. The cowl has it's base coat curing before alclad goes on. I don't know why the alclad on the side panle pealed away with the mask. Just means I have to do it again. Easy touch up.
Here's my estimation of CDL, that's Clear Doped Linen for the uninitiated. This is Floquil Railroad Colors Antique White. Based on what everyone was telling me about the CDL I figured this was a good match. I started masking the rib tape for a misting of white but I got bored and wanted to paint the black stuff. The masking still waits for me...
I forgot the upper wings will be PC10 (OD) on the outer parts. Just that central section is black.
I like this angle...
Here's the engine installed. Various metalizers, need spark wires and some washing. The cowl has it's base coat curing before alclad goes on. I don't know why the alclad on the side panle pealed away with the mask. Just means I have to do it again. Easy touch up.
Here's my estimation of CDL, that's Clear Doped Linen for the uninitiated. This is Floquil Railroad Colors Antique White. Based on what everyone was telling me about the CDL I figured this was a good match. I started masking the rib tape for a misting of white but I got bored and wanted to paint the black stuff. The masking still waits for me...
Kreighshoer
Active member
oooooooh i love it! the pup looks splendid!
black's such a beautiful color!
black's such a beautiful color!
Yeap, a little too late but it does present some nice detailing options for stuff still in the works. Like the tubing for the pitot tubes.
Thank you Laura, I take that for the seal of approval!
randy_ditton
Master at Arms
Really Suberb, MP, the black looks great. Any more pics of the engine? Did you have to add any extra detail too it( the engine) ?
Looking forward to the next update! Randy
Looking forward to the next update! Randy
