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Tornado ASSTA 3.1, Revell 1:48

Interesting approach Greg, watching with curiosity as grey and metal jet finishes are a new thing for me and i can see huge scope for technique and invention :)
 
Well, the aluminum paint went on well. I had to constantly clean the nozzle as it would gum up quickly; but I made it through.
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I painted the entire surface with the marbling lines. I want this plane to be relatively clean looking so instead of pre-shading the panel lines in black, I used Dark Iron grey. I am going to let this dry overnight the paint the final colors.
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One coat of a mixture I will never replicate but may never need to since I mixed about 4 oz. of it. Add color, shake it, add different colir, shake it, I did that until I was satisfied but ended up with a lifetime supply. I am using Mr Color leveling thinner. The odor is mild and so far my over-sensitive wife hasn't complained much to my astonishment.
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It is isn't it, and some get their shorts in a wad over the color in a photo not being "just" right.
 
For my next trick I added some white and a little more thinner to the mixture (just in the airbrush pot, not the whole jar) and spreayed the centers of the panels.
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Honestly, after staining the panel lines, that is all the weathering I will do on this one.
 
I repainted a fender and bumper cover on my van. To my eye in bright light and low light the color is such a close match that it is NOT noticable. With my camera however:
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For some reason the camera picks up some different elements of the paint differently and shows the fender panel as slightly lighter. It really isn't, but that is what cameras tend to do.
 
So, I have been painting the little parts like landing gear and such with Tamiya X and XF paints, and have noticed that the light colors turn brown the more I brush to get it smooth. I guess I will put a coat of gloss varnish on the grey and see it that stops the paint from turning brown. I just think it is weird that it turns brown and not grey. You cannot see the color change in this photo. I am just showing my progress...
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Looking good. I like the pre shading, but I just dont have the patience for do it. It does increase the appeal though. Watching with interest.
James
 
I had a lot of trouble with the canopy hardware. At the end, both top latch hardware had broken off and vanishe so I used tiny brass tubing to replace them, along with some styrene "hardware". I cit the bottom lift pistons and replaced then with brass tybing also, angling the ends with a file to match the angles of the joint location. It is probably messy; the superglue kept hanging on andbit took ten or fifteen tries for each side end up where I wanted it. I may let it cure and clean it up.
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A bit over kill on this maybe but what i do is....
I usually use .5mm bore tube on cars and i keep some .5mm piano wire, both available in my model shop and then if i wanted to fit a part like your lift rod i just cut the rod to length then cut a bit of piano wire 2-3 mm longer to go inside the tube. then you can pre drill .5mm holes on the canopy and cockpit and it just takes the strain off the glue as all you need is a smallest amount on the piano wire protruding and not on the brass. it also makes it a lot stronger
 
Ok, except for the bombs and tanks which will interfere with decals, all of the actual parts are appied to the plane. This is how we look pre decal marathon...
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This, I think, is the cleanest build I have ever done. I have had to manufacture several part that were lost in the abyss somewhere. I am excited about getting tha decals applied! Then I have to figure out my weathering plan. I have thought about it for seseral days. I have a Bandai panel pen in grey. I want the lines to look weathered but not BLACK. Something more subtle. Anyone reading can give me an idea of how you would approach the final weathering.
 
paddy said:
A bit over kill on this maybe but what i do is....
I usually use .5mm bore tube on cars and i keep some .5mm piano wire, both available in my model shop and then if i wanted to fit a part like your lift rod i just cut the rod to length then cut a bit of piano wire 2-3 mm longer to go inside the tube. then you can pre drill .5mm holes on the canopy and cockpit and it just takes the strain off the glue as all you need is a smallest amount on the piano wire protruding and not on the brass. it also makes it a lot stronger
Click to expand...
I have those things! What a great idea. I could still do that 🙂
 
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