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Stratojet B47

Great movie David, Strategic Air Command

They missed a great shot, if they had only gotten footage of Jimmy Stewart actually at the controls during the refueling.
 
Sanding the ol' fuselage again. Raised panel lines get wiped off but now we have...



h6ca6fd6.jpg


Archer Fine Transfers Raised Panel Lines. (y)

They are resin decals that go on prior to painting. Might need some clean up later one but I like the idea. I wonder if they have doors, hatches or access panels, even curved lines would be helpful as I couldn't get this to make a turn.
 
No sir, cold beer works fine for me. :rotf

might try that Chris, thanks. Let you know how it works tomorrow.
 
They are resin decals that go on prior to painting. Might need some clean up later one but I like the idea. I wonder if they have doors, hatches or access panels,

even curved lines would be helpful as I couldn't get this to make a turn.
Click to expand...


Hope I read this correctly, making the resin curved for the model contours,

if these are to be used like decals then hot water will release them from the backing sheet making them very hard to handle? they must be fairly fine and easily broken,

if you want some of them to curve, use masking tape to hold them on the fuselage them put the area under a 60 watt clear electric globe, the heat will make the resin softer and curve where you want it, you can use your fingers to push the warm resin lines over the curved area until set, when it's time to apply them they are still on the decal backing sheet.
 
Not the contours Phil, they conform well to the model. They do not bend around to make a door corner or such. I'm going to try the hot water trick today. Will let y'all know.
 
Archer has instructions and videos on how to use that stuff and of course their infamous guarantee if things go wrong. Sounds like a win/win proposition. OK, that's it for me for today. (y)
 
Man I tell ya what. I must have something in my skin. I picked up the ol' F86 again, stripped it down to the Black Gloss I had then hit it with Chrome AlcladII (there was a theory working there). It was a pretty finish as close to mirror like as I could get. So I knew i had to seal it to work further, hit it with the Alclad Aqua Clear and it went dead flat. Ugly, and finger prints everywhere. I didn't touch the damn thing! :bang head :bang head :bang head

That's it, I'm Foilin' this SOB!
 
moon puppy said:
Man I tell ya what. I must have something in my skin. I picked up the ol' F86 again, stripped it down to the Black Gloss I had then hit it with Chrome AlcladII (there was a theory working there). It was a pretty finish as close to mirror like as I could get. So I knew i had to seal it to work further, hit it with the Alclad Aqua Clear and it went dead flat. Ugly, and finger prints everywhere. I didn't touch the damn thing! :bang head :bang head :bang head

That's it, I'm Foilin' this SOB!
Click to expand...


:coolio I thought that the beauty of the Alclad was that it did not need to be sealed ? :facepalm

Is the alclad II different ? Says the guy that likes dull finishes :smack

Cheers, Christian B)
 
Chris the High Shine Alclads need to be sealed. I don't understand what happened. This was the same stuff i used on the Thunderjet that got a pretty good result.
 
Damn Bob if anyone has the curse of the black jellybean you do!

Consider this sealer, if you remember I used this over my B-25J for the CTA GB, no thinning, and it didn't dull the finish - I used Mr Metal Aluminum on the '25.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHE75
 
Phil said:
Damn Bob if anyone has the curse of the black jellybean you do!

Consider this sealer, if you remember I used this over my B-25J for the CTA GB, no thinning, and it didn't dull the finish - I used Mr Metal Aluminum on the '25.

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHE75
Click to expand...

Will do Phil, I wonder if humidity or some other enviromental thing caused this. I used the Alclad Aqua Clear before.
 
Bob, how long did you let the Alclad Chrome cure for?

did you give it a wash with a dampened micro fiber cloth then a dry one then leave alone to make sure it was fully dry.

the fingerprints are a mystery, were they on the Chrome? or is that paint so thin they showed through the finished shine, the thickness of AB paint must be in micro millimeters.

What was the weather/humidity like when you sprayed the Aqua clear, is it water based?

What was the last thing you sprayed with the AB Before you used the Aqua clear.


There must be a way to help you conquer this Alclad beast!
 
Phil said:
Bob, how long did you let the Alclad Chrome cure for?

did you give it a wash with a dampened micro fiber cloth then a dry one then leave alone to make sure it was fully dry.
Click to expand...

Long enough to get the dust off that builds up. I used flannel rag to clean it up. I'm tell ya the Chrome was looking great at that point. No wash, just dry rub.

Phil said:
the fingerprints are a mystery, were they on the Chrome? or is that paint so thin they showed through the finished shine, the thickness of AB paint must be in micro millimeters.
Click to expand...

Long enough to get the dust off that builds up. I used flannel rag to clean it up. I'm tell ya the Chrome was looking great at that point. No wash, just dry rub.

Phil said:
the fingerprints are a mystery, were they on the Chrome? or is that paint so thin they showed through the finished shine, the thickness of AB paint must be in micro millimeters.
Click to expand...
Yes the Alclad layer is very thin, it does not take much with this high shine product.


Phil said:
What was the weather/humidity like when you sprayed the Aqua clear, is it water based?
Click to expand...

Dry and cool.

Phil said:
What was the last thing you sprayed with the AB Before you used the Aqua clear.
Click to expand...

Would have been the Chrome. I flushed the AB with lacquer thinner to clean, then windex to flush, then water. It was dry. Alclad Aqua Clear is an acrylic.

Phil said:
There must be a way to help you conquer this Alclad beast!
Click to expand...

What makes this frustrating is I went back to check my notes on the Thunderjet, should have turned out just like that. Maybe what I need to do is work in small panel sections. This High Shine product seems to work better on small parts as oppose to a completed model.
 
I flushed the AB with lacquer thinner to clean, then windex to flush, then water. It was dry. Alclad Aqua Clear is an acrylic.


Man what a dilemma, everything you have said and did seems the right way to go.

as you said, the Chrome was looking great at that point. No wash, just dry rub.

what I would do, is spray the Chrome onto a new flat plastic evergreen card, prep it like you would a kit, flush the ab the same way, leave it dry for the same time, add the Aqua clear as norm, but add a drop or two of water mix it in then spray the chrome on the plastic card - see if it goes flat again.

The only thing that I can see is some moisture left in the AB somehow, which just may be the cause of the flat result.

If you used the Badger Krome AB I notice sometimes when I clean and flush mine that it does retain some moisture in it some where, now I fully disassemble it to be sure it is fully dry.

It's got to be damned frustrating to get to that point with Alclad to see it go down the drain time after time, this time though the Alclad was ''looking great at that point'' (and by the way did you spray that in one big spray?) so I'd be looking at the Aqua clear as the culprit,or one of the flushing stages rather than the Alclad.
 
If you touched the base coat with bare fingers, then that contaminated the surface. I used to use a pair of thin cotton gloves when painting my car bodies, still have a bagful and i'll give you a pair. B)
 
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