That's the spirit Paddy, tear it down and see what's a foot. 
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Scammell Pioneer FINISHED
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I would suggest a light tack maybe with CA until you get it for sure. I have done that before by using minimal amounts to tack parts together. Then when it needs to come apart, a slight tweak and it pops right apart. Yeah the assembly is delicate, but then once it is all good, take some super thin CA and feed it into the joins to make it solid.
paddy
Well-known member
OK so it looks like the Main spars twists once glue is applied as they are temporarily softened by the glue . By putting a block under each side of the crossmember it beefs up the whole section and doesnt allow it to twist like this
The loop on the back of the steering assembly is supplied in 2 parts and i dont think they are symmetrical so double check this as it throws the rear mount off centre. Also make sure the button that fits too the back is central, you may have to slot it over .0.5mm
Finally check the front pivot point on the front axel is central, mine is over 0.5mm out ( its the hole at the bottom of this picture) I didn't move this but i did move the bit that fits in this hole to compensate
You can centre most of the cross bars, for example if its 1mm out just shave .5mm off one side and pack out the other side by .5mm
With care you will end up with everything centred and symmetrical like this
.
I can now proceed. The gear box still doesnt fit but thats a fault with box itself and not an alignment problem to do with the above
Sorry this is a bit boring but it may help someone else building one of these
The loop on the back of the steering assembly is supplied in 2 parts and i dont think they are symmetrical so double check this as it throws the rear mount off centre. Also make sure the button that fits too the back is central, you may have to slot it over .0.5mm
Finally check the front pivot point on the front axel is central, mine is over 0.5mm out ( its the hole at the bottom of this picture) I didn't move this but i did move the bit that fits in this hole to compensate
You can centre most of the cross bars, for example if its 1mm out just shave .5mm off one side and pack out the other side by .5mm
With care you will end up with everything centred and symmetrical like this
I can now proceed. The gear box still doesnt fit but thats a fault with box itself and not an alignment problem to do with the above
Sorry this is a bit boring but it may help someone else building one of these
Not boring at all, like how you're over coming this. Press on!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
As Bob said, not boring! It is this kind of info on a build that can make a difference. Being able to see and correct these issues is what makes an adequate modeler into an expert.
@paddy, DEFINITLEY not boring to whoever spends the small fortune to buy this kit. I have seen too many malign Thunder Models, and their Irish inspiration Mirror Models (plastic branch of LZ Models), because of alignment and extremely close tolerances.Sorry this is a bit boring but it may help someone else building one of these
Regards and thanks,
Guess how I knew about that problem? Mirror Models' kits! Thankfully, this one has FAR less etch than the Irish kits. Easy to trim plastic to fit, not so much with precision PE. Even Libor Zachoval (the 'LZ' in LZ Models and Mirror Models' owner) tripped himself more than once during his builds.Saul told me not to fall down the hole and i fell down the hole anyway
Regards,
Wow, looks like it could be most anything at this point.
I know that too well. I would call it a tedious kit... it makes me work for all that lovely detail. What would you call it?Its not getting any easier yet
Regards,
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looking GOOD Paddy!
paddy
Well-known member
By way of a change i decided to to do a bit on the cab
you can see its quite large from the paint pot
However i now find that its impossible to attach the back of the cab now, the instruction sequence is wrong and it should have been attached to the floor before the rear set assembly was fitted. Without trying to unstick the whole thing i will have to cut the rear panel, fit then re-join and fill. Picture also shows some filling of ejection pin holes underway as well
you can see its quite large from the paint pot
However i now find that its impossible to attach the back of the cab now, the instruction sequence is wrong and it should have been attached to the floor before the rear set assembly was fitted. Without trying to unstick the whole thing i will have to cut the rear panel, fit then re-join and fill. Picture also shows some filling of ejection pin holes underway as well
paddy
Well-known member
Also i found this which is what we are aiming for
I am beginning to think the mix i was given for light stone is completely wrong ? i now have a bottle of Mig ammo light stone and its very much as above.. the mix i was given of white x2 yellow x2 and desert yellow x7 seems way too yellow ( XF2 XF3 XF59 )
I am beginning to think the mix i was given for light stone is completely wrong ? i now have a bottle of Mig ammo light stone and its very much as above.. the mix i was given of white x2 yellow x2 and desert yellow x7 seems way too yellow ( XF2 XF3 XF59 )
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Looks like a brute of a truck, tractor...
