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Messerschmitts X 3

Thank you Mike!

Most all of the decals are now on the Me 262, the two remaining decals that have yet to be put on the model go on the nose gear door and I need to wait until the model is almost finished before I can do that.

If the weather clears up I hope to get some in-progress pictures later today.

Matrixone
 
Thank you Mike!

Most all of the decals are now on the Me 262, the two remaining decals that have yet to be put on the model go on the nose gear door and I need to wait until the model is almost finished before I can do that.

If the weather clears up I hope to get some in-progress later today.

Matrixone

(y) :zen :zen
 
Thanks Ed!

Very late in the day the sun finally broke through and I was able to get some snaps of the Me 262. :)

When ''white 1'' was captured at the end of the war the paint job was still in good condition so I won't bother with any paint fading effects...just some light paint chipping/scuff marks will be needed on this model.
h9013486.JPG


h51f573b.JPG


h5c08014.JPG


hefd2e15.JPG


h2093f89.JPG


Two pictures of the undersurfaces....now that the markings are on the model the pre-shading is just barely seen now.

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After the decals are 100% dry a thin coat of Future will be sprayed on to seal in the decals and protect them from oil paint pin washes.


Matrixone
 
very nice Lestt looks very very good I'll be watching for the finish on this one I'm sure it will be excellent ......... :eek:ldguy :ro: :dude (y)
 
Thanks Ed!

Very late in the day the sun finally broke through and I was able to get some snaps of the Me 262. :)

When ''white 1'' was captured at the end of the war the paint job was still in good condition so I won't bother with any paint fading effects...just some light paint chipping/scuff marks will be needed on this model.
h9013486.JPG


h51f573b.JPG


h5c08014.JPG


hefd2e15.JPG


h2093f89.JPG


Two pictures of the undersurfaces....now that the markings are on the model the pre-shading is just barely seen now.

h2a569d3.JPG


h412ece0.JPG


After the decals are 100% dry a thin coat of Future will be sprayed on to seal in the decals and protect them from oil paint pin washes.


Matrixone

:good:
 
Thanks for following along guys!

The 262 will have to set a day or two before I can do much more with it but thats no problem, this way I can do more on the Revell G-10. :)

I admit I have been putting off working on the Revell 'Erla' G-10 because of some of the strange part assemblies and that includes wheel wells and three piece wings. Actually these areas are not bad at all and fit together really good. The wheel well detail on this model is better than the older Hasegawa kit, in this first picture it shows the wheel wells have been assembled and given some pre-shading.

hfec5a7c.JPG


h8619437.JPG


The wings on this model are made of three pieces for each side, here they are just dry fitted but so far appears to be a good fit, the red arrow points to a minor problem...there is a natural panel line here like there was on the full size aircraft so filling in this seam line gap won't work but the gap between the wing parts are wider than the other molded in details on the surface of the kit so it might look a bit strange, filling in the gap with Mr. Surfacer might reduce the width of the gap while keeping the some of the panel line visible might work.

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The wheels hubs have been sprayed semi-gloss black and the landing gear doors and legs have been sprayed RLM 02 and then given some pre-shading to give the parts some depth.

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Matrixone
 
Thanks for looking!

Some nice progress has been done on the Revell G-10, the wings have been built and the trouble spots have been filled in with Mr. Surfacer.
Revell has an odd way to have you add the control surfaces...the top and bottom halves of each control surface must be glued together around hinges on the wings and tail planes, so far it has worked okay but will make it tricky to fill in any gaps at the very trailing edge of the parts and risk some breakage. The flaps have been glued on the wings and will do the same with the ailerons very soon.

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The tail planes are just pressed in to check their fit in these pictures and they won't be glued on the model until after some painting of the camouflage colors on the fin/rudder has been done. The fin/rudder will be painted in the late war stencil applied camouflage pattern and it will be so much easier to paint this first and then mask it off before painting the rest of the camouflage on the airframe.

h61ee505.JPG


And here is another oddball choice Revell made on some of the parts on this kit, this is the propeller and spinner assembly and it looks harmless enough here but Revell chose to split the spinner in such a way that it creates a seam line that must be filled in but the way they engineered the propeller blades they have to be glued in before the spinner can be glued together which means trying to fill in the seam line while the propeller blades are in the way. :smack Also painting on the spinner spiral will be much more difficult with the propeller blades in the way. :vmad

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I will modify each propeller by removing the lugs attached to the base of each propeller blade so I can slide them in AFTER the spinner is assembled. The picture below shows one of the prop blades have already been modified.

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And here are the Me 262 wheels after the hubs have been lightly dry brushed with silver.

h31c7c28.JPG


Matrixone
 
Bob,
Yes I carved/sanded flat spots on the wheels, to my eyes seeing perfectly round wheels on scale models with weathering on them ruins any chance of the model looking realistic. Even the tail wheel will have a flat spot on the tire.

Thanks Luiz!
 
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