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Italeri Alfa 2300 FINISHED

Thats right John, i had a 1967 MGB GT from about 1980 to 1995 and it had what we called, lever arm shocks , bit like small bottle jacks.

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Today i gave myself a lesson in doing things properly :)
these are the filler caps for the rocker boxes (cam covers, whatever you lot call them :) )
they should be silver, probably nickel plate however i decided to do mine brass.

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I was a bit troubled by the holes in the middle but they were so uniform i thought they must be correct, anyway having looked at my reference pics they are sink marks !!
No problem , clean them off and ,throw some filler at them

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Better but the filler is contracting as it dries and the holes re appear.

OK paddy, stop messing about , take your time, do it properly...


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thats better, so why didnt you do that in the first place. ?
 
The danger with using replicas and restored cars as reference is they may actually be quite different from the original.

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This is my reference but wait ? is that a 1995 Lucas Coil i see ? Surely this would have been on magneto's.

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this side has an electric fuel pump ? and filter bowl. the original would had non of this which explains why the there is no detail on the kit Bulkhead. Now do i add the fuel pump to the model and the plumbing to make it all look a bit busier or go with the original. I am leaning towards the fuel pump............................i think but maybe not the coil.
 
I see a trend in your auto builds. Fond of mechanical superchargers are we? Brilliant job so far, as usual! :vgood:
 
I hear what you are saying about restored vehicles not being all correct Paddy. Back in the 80's when I was an avid collector of vintage VW beetles. Had a '47, '54, two '55s, and a '56. There was a LOT to learn. I still retain most of that knowledge and all the books. It is always a challenge to get things "original" with vintage vehicles.
 
Hi John
this shows the magneto
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Its under the rear exhaust down pipes

On the model its in the same place but its the more conventional shape and tyoe

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The radiator is nicely moulded front and back with a mesh pattern that would stand out well with a little dry brushing however i decided to cut the middle out and use wire mesh


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here it is cut out with the back panel which i will leave as moulded



Here's the wire mesh fitted and a bit of foam to pack it out

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and the parts with black and Brass added


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I have progressed the radiator cowl to try out my paint choice of flat dull red with a gloss coat. I dont want a modern mirror shine and this method is giving me an orange peel semi gloss which is fitting i think for the 1930's


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some engine work also underway but waiting for parts like plug leads etc and we have a postal strike here so things are very slow .

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More sensational work.
I like your choice of color/finish. Whether or not it's "correct" I can't say. But to me it "feels" right.
 
These are quite nice, they are 3D printed nuts and washer combo's in 0.6 - 1.2mm

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the effect is very nice as you can see here on the steering box

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This is the kit part with very small bolts on the front plate.

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And this is with the ANYZ nuts fitted

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Hi Chris
I couldn't find 2 of these the same colour, some were even light blue.
I puzzled over the paint for some time and came to this conclusion....maybe i over thought this.

Cars in the early 30's seem to be shiny but they dont reflect like a mirror. I think this is because they dont have a very even surface. We are very used to shiny with almost mirror reflections on cars. The conundrum is if you have a full sized car with a none reflection surface then by the time you reduce it in scale 12:1 the surface would be smooth enough to reflect images, however when you take a picture of the model without any size reference, you want it to look real so you need to replicate the finish of 1:1 in 12:1.
Rather than a rough surface i found (by accident) that if you spray matt and then gloss coat, you get a shiny gloss coat but the basic matt shows through as not nearly as reflective as had you sprayed gloss on gloss. I have yet to see how this works on a larger area but we will soon find out but basically you get a shiny Matt coat :cool:
 
Paddy, I think the older lacquer and enamel finishes were not as durable as modern finishes, and also did not easily develop the shine we see today without extreme effort in terms of polishing and waxing. It takes a lot of coats of the old lacquers as well.
 
Agreed John

This is interesting, the ignition leads in the instructions are as shown

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however looking a JL's car in his you tube video you can see the leads were kept out of the way by putting them in a tube above the engine


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The kit actually supplies this tube and shows how to fit it however its completely pointless as its purpose is to carry the plug leads.

I can see why they have done this as its not going to be an easy fit but i think they probably intended this as the tube ( which is solid ) does have an inlet and 8x outlets. I suspect they thought this might be a complication too far for most.

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Hands up who likes a challenge ....gotta give it a go. :).
 
Totally replace that tube with a real one and at the least pipe the wires in and out of it. I've seen that on the WnW kits.
 
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