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Faded SBD 4

I usually drill the gear reduction or crankcase . Easier to work with in 1/72 , but whatever works for you. :soldier

Can't see the holes either after you install the ignition harness .

Good to see progress Bob.

Cheers, Christian B)
 
Quick Boost has the holes pretty well defined Chris, drill bit does reach down to the crankcase so it cleans out a bit. Shouldn't take much. :pilot
 
I've slipped down to the bench a little. Worked on some seams and had to rebuild the wing root seam on the port side. Mr Surfacer500 filled in nicely.


h4d9438c.jpg


hf42eec0.jpg


Still have some more spots to work out.

The engine...Quickboost. Looks like they are getting their money worth out of the molds.


h8a92993.jpg


Notice the lost of detail, cooling fins disappear on some cylinder heads. Kinda thinking about using the kit motor at this point. Might mock them both up and see who looks good.
 
That's criminal. The reason for resin AM is to get better detail, not less than styrene. Molds need frequent rotation, anything short if stealing from your customer base. It's the nature of the beast.

Can't tell from the photo, are the fins missing, or filled in? If the gaps are filled in, they may be using an extreme amount of release that's obliterating detail. If they are missing, many previous owners are getting bits of silicone hitchhikers between their fins.

Personally, I never use release and just change out the mold every 20 pieces, before they start to break down.

Either way, I'd drop them an email and let them know this isn't going unnoticed. They may not even be aware if they're using a third party to cast.
 
That's criminal. The reason for resin AM is to get better detail, not less than styrene. Molds need frequent rotation, anything short if stealing from your customer base. It's the nature of the beast.

Can't tell from the photo, are the fins missing, or filled in? If the gaps are filled in, they may be using an extreme amount of release that's obliterating detail. If they are missing, many previous owners are getting bits of silicone hitchhikers between their fins.

Personally, I never use release and just change out the mold every 20 pieces, before they start to break down.

Either way, I'd drop them an email and let them know this isn't going unnoticed. They may not even be aware if they're using a third party to cast.

Eh, I'm not that stoked about it at this point. At least it fits, with a little nudging.

You can see where I tried to see if there was something in the fins, it's not. Looks to me the molds are just worn down.

48070.jpg

Original from Quickboost website.
 
That's criminal. The reason for resin AM is to get better detail, not less than styrene. Molds need frequent rotation, anything short if stealing from your customer base. It's the nature of the beast.

Can't tell from the photo, are the fins missing, or filled in? If the gaps are filled in, they may be using an extreme amount of release that's obliterating detail. If they are missing, many previous owners are getting bits of silicone hitchhikers between their fins.

Personally, I never use release and just change out the mold every 20 pieces, before they start to break down.

Either way, I'd drop them an email and let them know this isn't going unnoticed. They may not even be aware if they're using a third party to cast.

Eh, I'm not that stoked about it at this point. At least it fits, with a little nudging.

You can see where I tried to see if there was something in the fins, it's not. Looks to me the molds are just worn down.

48070.jpg

Original from Quickboost website.

Wow, it that's their example, yikes. You would think their example would be the second or third pull.

Either it's a crappy mold (maybe they don't vacuum after pour so the silicone doesn't get into the crannies) or it's covered with release. Mold release (at least the stuff I've seen) is sprayed in, allowed to dry then the excess is brushed off. You can see where that could be bad for detail if it cakes up areas like the fins. My issue was I spend a good amount of time sculpting detail like eyelids and wrinkles (especially in 1/35) so theres no way I'm going to goober it up with a layer of release to protect the mold. I'd rather just make more molds. Once the master's done, it's just mechanical busy work, not too time consuming.

Those fins would be a deal breaker for me.
 
Victor on Vector...You're right Paul but I don't want to invest that much time on this. I'm ready to get to the painting. :pilot
 
And the Vector engines no matter how lovely are made to scale and seldom fit in the inches thick cowling on most kits without grinding away allot of nice detail.

Looking good so far Bob (y)
 
That's interesting Bob, can't speak from experience as I've never bought an engine from Quickboost yet.

I've stuck mostly with Vector, Engines and things and Ultracast.

Should look fine once it is in the cowling though!

:popcorn
 
I bought quickboost engines for the 1/48 P-61 and the fins look way better

p61-10.jpg


I'm thinking yours came from worn out molds
 
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