Iron Mike
Master At Arms And Resident Curmudgeon
I'll remember you saying that, you know.
hyeah 
-
Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
This requires that you manually reset your password.
Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.
Bf 109-g-6
- Thread starter moon puppy
- Start date
I'll remember you saying that, you know.
hyeah 
I had to rework some primer and letting it cure. Mighty humid down here this weekend.
While that's happening, I'm heating up the soldering iron. (doesn't take but a minute)
Send me soldering :zen
While that's happening, I'm heating up the soldering iron. (doesn't take but a minute)
Send me soldering :zen
Not bad if I say so myself.
:coolio
Before clean up, these are the rails the glass will sit on. Really having to think about what will be soldered and what will be glued. Going to have to have it all done, painted then install glass. :drunk
:coolio
Before clean up, these are the rails the glass will sit on. Really having to think about what will be soldered and what will be glued. Going to have to have it all done, painted then install glass. :drunk
phantom II
Master at Arms
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
So far so good Bob!
I would make a soldering suggestion. If you are joining 2 pieces at the edge, flux and pre-tin the edges. You don't need a lot of solder, just make them silver.
Then to join the pieces You can set them together and tack a couple of spots to hold it. The pre-tin will flow quickly when touched by a small drop of melted solder on the iron. Once it is tacked to your satisfaction, just run the iron slowly along the joint and it will bond along the whole joint without a lot of solder needing to be added.
I would make a soldering suggestion. If you are joining 2 pieces at the edge, flux and pre-tin the edges. You don't need a lot of solder, just make them silver.
Then to join the pieces You can set them together and tack a couple of spots to hold it. The pre-tin will flow quickly when touched by a small drop of melted solder on the iron. Once it is tacked to your satisfaction, just run the iron slowly along the joint and it will bond along the whole joint without a lot of solder needing to be added.
Thanks Paul, yep, that's what I did. I'm sure my work is not as clean as yours, I don't get to practice often. So far no major fubars, only a minor one but it's recoverable.
Skinny_Mike
Well-known member
Solder work is looking good Bob. I need to practice a lot more.
So I'm confused, what exactly is that etched piece? Canopy frame?
Mike
So I'm confused, what exactly is that etched piece? Canopy frame?
Mike
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
So far so good Bob!
I would make a soldering suggestion. If you are joining 2 pieces at the edge, flux and pre-tin the edges. You don't need a lot of solder, just make them silver.
Then to join the pieces You can set them together and tack a couple of spots to hold it. The pre-tin will flow quickly when touched by a small drop of melted solder on the iron. Once it is tacked to your satisfaction, just run the iron slowly along the joint and it will bond along the whole joint without a lot of solder needing to be added.
Hey Paul, have you considered a few soldering lessons for us beginners here at MA?
I would certainly find them helpful and other experts could chime in as well!
Ian
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Well I'm not exactly sure what's going on with this stuff.
I pealed back the film and about 90% of the rivets transferred. I played around with it a bit, the intent is to put these on, paint then sand back a bit. I put another layer of primer on and they disappear completely. Haven't tested with paint yet, suspect it will not disappear right away. Problem is I tend to be a heavy painter, lots of coats. I'm not sure if these are supposed to be chipped rivets or slightly raised. Not seeing this stuff used on a build before I'm not really sure what the end game is supposed to be.
I'm going to press forward.
BTW, they seem to react better sticking wise to Mr. Surfacer 1000 sanded with 4000 as opposed to Tamiya primer.
:hmmm :hmmm
- never seen these used before.
Exactly, it's the canopy frame, if it all works out it should swing open and shut even with a spring loaded retaining lanyard.
:hmmm :hmmm
Neither have I, guess someone has to be first. :facepalm
Duke Maddog
Well-known member
Sensational soldering work! You rock man!
So far so good Bob!
I would make a soldering suggestion. If you are joining 2 pieces at the edge, flux and pre-tin the edges. You don't need a lot of solder, just make them silver.
Then to join the pieces You can set them together and tack a couple of spots to hold it. The pre-tin will flow quickly when touched by a small drop of melted solder on the iron. Once it is tacked to your satisfaction, just run the iron slowly along the joint and it will bond along the whole joint without a lot of solder needing to be added.
Paul, is there an anti flux? Something that keeps solder from flowing where we don't want it to go?
I just love this soldering station. If I had this thing back when I was building that brass halftrack the freakin' doors would all work. Amazing what heat does!
So..I spent more time staging the parts and getting them lined up than actually soldering.
Probably not as pretty as it should be but works for me.
Think I'm done soldering on the main frame, need to paint, add glazing then some other internal framing to hold the glazing in place.
Note that if you do this the instructions are calling for the canopy latch to be installed on the wrong side. Should be port side.
So..I spent more time staging the parts and getting them lined up than actually soldering.
Probably not as pretty as it should be but works for me.
Think I'm done soldering on the main frame, need to paint, add glazing then some other internal framing to hold the glazing in place.
Note that if you do this the instructions are calling for the canopy latch to be installed on the wrong side. Should be port side.
