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Bf 109-g-6
- Thread starter moon puppy
- Start date
ij001
Well-known member
I love the smell of progress in the morning.
Best comment ever !! - Looking very sharp, Bob.
Ian.
Sherman 18
Master at Arms
My current 109 kick started because i got this set of HGW models Positive Rivets decals.
http://hgwmodels.cz/en/
I don't see the 109 products on the website.
They are resin (I think) details that go on in an entire section, just like a wet transfer but two hours later you remove the skin and hopefully the rivets stay on the primed surface.
Instructions on the website suggest light sanding after painting and the raised detail will show up.
I haven't seen anyone post this stuff so let's see what happens.
I'm starting of with the stabilizers. If it takes two hours for each section to dry, it's really going to add some time to the build, let's see if it's worth the time.
Think i'll see what it looks like in the AM.
http://hgwmodels.cz/en/
I don't see the 109 products on the website.
They are resin (I think) details that go on in an entire section, just like a wet transfer but two hours later you remove the skin and hopefully the rivets stay on the primed surface.
Instructions on the website suggest light sanding after painting and the raised detail will show up.
I haven't seen anyone post this stuff so let's see what happens.
I'm starting of with the stabilizers. If it takes two hours for each section to dry, it's really going to add some time to the build, let's see if it's worth the time.
Think i'll see what it looks like in the AM.
razordws
Well-known member
Think i'll see what it looks like in the AM.
...and?
I'm interested in seeing the results.
Well I'm not exactly sure what's going on with this stuff.
I pealed back the film and about 90% of the rivets transferred. I played around with it a bit, the intent is to put these on, paint then sand back a bit. I put another layer of primer on and they disappear completely. Haven't tested with paint yet, suspect it will not disappear right away. Problem is I tend to be a heavy painter, lots of coats. I'm not sure if these are supposed to be chipped rivets or slightly raised. Not seeing this stuff used on a build before I'm not really sure what the end game is supposed to be.
I'm going to press forward.
BTW, they seem to react better sticking wise to Mr. Surfacer 1000 sanded with 4000 as opposed to Tamiya primer.
I pealed back the film and about 90% of the rivets transferred. I played around with it a bit, the intent is to put these on, paint then sand back a bit. I put another layer of primer on and they disappear completely. Haven't tested with paint yet, suspect it will not disappear right away. Problem is I tend to be a heavy painter, lots of coats. I'm not sure if these are supposed to be chipped rivets or slightly raised. Not seeing this stuff used on a build before I'm not really sure what the end game is supposed to be.
I'm going to press forward.
BTW, they seem to react better sticking wise to Mr. Surfacer 1000 sanded with 4000 as opposed to Tamiya primer.
Tedious work. Guess I could do more surface area but again, I"m taking it slow.
I've decided to paint the base camo THEN add these dots, then do a light covering. The few references I see about this stuff states they disappear under a coat of paint. Knowing how heavy I paint this would be doomed.
Hope it rains this weekend, I'd get some bench time in! :dude
I've decided to paint the base camo THEN add these dots, then do a light covering. The few references I see about this stuff states they disappear under a coat of paint. Knowing how heavy I paint this would be doomed.
Hope it rains this weekend, I'd get some bench time in! :dude
Skinny_Mike
Well-known member
I bought a set of these for my FW190d9. I'm very interested in any tips you have Bob.
BTW - build is coming along nicely.
Mike
BTW - build is coming along nicely.
Mike
Well it does need some strong decal set solution. I tried it with the Microsol red bottle, didn't transfer. My Solvaset bottle is on it's last leg and highly contaminated so I didn't want to use it. I broke out the out of production "Champs", stuff will etch metal I tell ya. I suspect Solvaset or Mr Mark softener will do fine.
Thanks Ian!
Thanks Ian!
I asked some serious questions to HGW's owner about these and no response as to how they are supposed to look after application. These are not as pronounced as Archer Fine Transfers' product which makes me wonder if it is simply AFT's Surface Details version 1 (thick ink). What makes it innovative is the application method.
All the videos I have come across don't really show a final result where the rivets or control surface structures appear raised.
Regards,
All the videos I have come across don't really show a final result where the rivets or control surface structures appear raised.
Regards,
Agree Saul, If Archer did the same transfer method it would really be something. But I suspect they will not put the time and effort into researching the proper patterns and just give us rows and rows of rivets.
This stuff is not defined as well as it should be. Recall we (as a hobby) complain about the overstated rivets of Trumpeter's line up but I always thought it was to compensate or layers and layers of paint.
This stuff is not defined as well as it should be. Recall we (as a hobby) complain about the overstated rivets of Trumpeter's line up but I always thought it was to compensate or layers and layers of paint.
