It's just the pallet for the artist. 
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MFH Abarth 1000-SP 1/12
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Something I have done in the past to get a really smooth finish with a gloss paint has been to take a compatible thinner and do a wet mist over the gloss paint. This worked well with Alclad gloss black and the blue paint on my Bugatti P100 aircraft. The pebble surface and orange peel just vanished leaving a gloss smooth finish that I didn't have to do anything to. Mr paint retarder thinner worked really well. I sprayed the thinner shortly after the paint had been all painted, before it had a chance to fully cure or dry and it worked like a champ.
Then I let it dry for several days and only things I had in it were a couple of small dust specks that I lightly leveled off.
Then I let it dry for several days and only things I had in it were a couple of small dust specks that I lightly leveled off.
paddy
Well-known member
Houston................we have a problem ..
The body work seems to fit pretty well given the number of parts and the opportunity, given the constructed frame, for things to go very wrong
Getting the engine firewall positioned correctly seems to be the key as its the datum point for the other panels as far as i can see...however.
The rear panel engine cover seems to fit ok on the top but it should pivot at the rear and the hinge mechanism is way out, maybe as much as 1/2" or 12mm ?
This from another build on another website
-- The hinges for the doors and rear engine lid are much sturdier than past kits, and we are all used to misalignment of 0.5 or 1.0 mm requiring some adjustment. But the hinge for the engine lid was too high, compared to the location on the subframe where it attaches, by 11 mm (7/16" in the photo). I fabricated an extension for the hinge; it is possible I got the rear subframe wrong, but everything else in back lines up very nicely, so I doubt that I was off by a whole 11 mm.
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So this is not me but forewarned is forearmed.
The body work seems to fit pretty well given the number of parts and the opportunity, given the constructed frame, for things to go very wrong
Getting the engine firewall positioned correctly seems to be the key as its the datum point for the other panels as far as i can see...however.
The rear panel engine cover seems to fit ok on the top but it should pivot at the rear and the hinge mechanism is way out, maybe as much as 1/2" or 12mm ?
This from another build on another website
-- The hinges for the doors and rear engine lid are much sturdier than past kits, and we are all used to misalignment of 0.5 or 1.0 mm requiring some adjustment. But the hinge for the engine lid was too high, compared to the location on the subframe where it attaches, by 11 mm (7/16" in the photo). I fabricated an extension for the hinge; it is possible I got the rear subframe wrong, but everything else in back lines up very nicely, so I doubt that I was off by a whole 11 mm.
------------------------
So this is not me but forewarned is forearmed.
paddy
Well-known member
So this is my solution.
First i made a stronger copy of the original but longer... This gave me a good starting point to do something quite different
I decided i needed a constant so i fixed the bracket to the cover and this showed that a rod through the brackets would go straight through the gearbox.
So first thing was to bend the bracket ( or as we engineers say) finely tune to clear
Then i used the same method i used on the top roll bar ie: sleeved a couple of rods off the original fixing and (finely tuned them) to arrive at the bar between the mounting brackets..
This will be a lot stronger, the brass is harder than the white metal and the tube section is stronger. As this is going to hold the whole resin cover it needs to be strong so it shuts correctly and i dont have to keep bending it to fit properly.
I just need to assemble the thing now. the Rods into the alloy sleeves is easy but not sure about the rods on to the cross bar (hinge) ? But soldering is not that strong so i wonder about a 2 pack epoxy or maybe both. truth is once i have satisfied myself it opens and shuts and looks correct it probably never be opened again anyway.....
Funny but i have enjoyed sorting this problem more than the rest of the build
First i made a stronger copy of the original but longer... This gave me a good starting point to do something quite different
I decided i needed a constant so i fixed the bracket to the cover and this showed that a rod through the brackets would go straight through the gearbox.
So first thing was to bend the bracket ( or as we engineers say) finely tune to clear
Then i used the same method i used on the top roll bar ie: sleeved a couple of rods off the original fixing and (finely tuned them) to arrive at the bar between the mounting brackets..
This will be a lot stronger, the brass is harder than the white metal and the tube section is stronger. As this is going to hold the whole resin cover it needs to be strong so it shuts correctly and i dont have to keep bending it to fit properly.
I just need to assemble the thing now. the Rods into the alloy sleeves is easy but not sure about the rods on to the cross bar (hinge) ? But soldering is not that strong so i wonder about a 2 pack epoxy or maybe both. truth is once i have satisfied myself it opens and shuts and looks correct it probably never be opened again anyway.....
Funny but i have enjoyed sorting this problem more than the rest of the build
I know what you mean. I've done stuff like this that ends up not even being seen.Funny but i have enjoyed sorting this problem more than the rest of the build
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looking like a good solid fix Paddy.
