It's just the pallet for the artist. 
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MFH Abarth 1000-SP 1/12
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Something I have done in the past to get a really smooth finish with a gloss paint has been to take a compatible thinner and do a wet mist over the gloss paint. This worked well with Alclad gloss black and the blue paint on my Bugatti P100 aircraft. The pebble surface and orange peel just vanished leaving a gloss smooth finish that I didn't have to do anything to. Mr paint retarder thinner worked really well. I sprayed the thinner shortly after the paint had been all painted, before it had a chance to fully cure or dry and it worked like a champ.
Then I let it dry for several days and only things I had in it were a couple of small dust specks that I lightly leveled off.
Then I let it dry for several days and only things I had in it were a couple of small dust specks that I lightly leveled off.
paddy
Well-known member
Houston................we have a problem ..
The body work seems to fit pretty well given the number of parts and the opportunity, given the constructed frame, for things to go very wrong
Getting the engine firewall positioned correctly seems to be the key as its the datum point for the other panels as far as i can see...however.
The rear panel engine cover seems to fit ok on the top but it should pivot at the rear and the hinge mechanism is way out, maybe as much as 1/2" or 12mm ?
This from another build on another website
-- The hinges for the doors and rear engine lid are much sturdier than past kits, and we are all used to misalignment of 0.5 or 1.0 mm requiring some adjustment. But the hinge for the engine lid was too high, compared to the location on the subframe where it attaches, by 11 mm (7/16" in the photo). I fabricated an extension for the hinge; it is possible I got the rear subframe wrong, but everything else in back lines up very nicely, so I doubt that I was off by a whole 11 mm.
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So this is not me but forewarned is forearmed.
The body work seems to fit pretty well given the number of parts and the opportunity, given the constructed frame, for things to go very wrong
Getting the engine firewall positioned correctly seems to be the key as its the datum point for the other panels as far as i can see...however.
The rear panel engine cover seems to fit ok on the top but it should pivot at the rear and the hinge mechanism is way out, maybe as much as 1/2" or 12mm ?
This from another build on another website
-- The hinges for the doors and rear engine lid are much sturdier than past kits, and we are all used to misalignment of 0.5 or 1.0 mm requiring some adjustment. But the hinge for the engine lid was too high, compared to the location on the subframe where it attaches, by 11 mm (7/16" in the photo). I fabricated an extension for the hinge; it is possible I got the rear subframe wrong, but everything else in back lines up very nicely, so I doubt that I was off by a whole 11 mm.
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So this is not me but forewarned is forearmed.
paddy
Well-known member
So this is my solution.
First i made a stronger copy of the original but longer... This gave me a good starting point to do something quite different
I decided i needed a constant so i fixed the bracket to the cover and this showed that a rod through the brackets would go straight through the gearbox.
So first thing was to bend the bracket ( or as we engineers say) finely tune to clear
Then i used the same method i used on the top roll bar ie: sleeved a couple of rods off the original fixing and (finely tuned them) to arrive at the bar between the mounting brackets..
This will be a lot stronger, the brass is harder than the white metal and the tube section is stronger. As this is going to hold the whole resin cover it needs to be strong so it shuts correctly and i dont have to keep bending it to fit properly.
I just need to assemble the thing now. the Rods into the alloy sleeves is easy but not sure about the rods on to the cross bar (hinge) ? But soldering is not that strong so i wonder about a 2 pack epoxy or maybe both. truth is once i have satisfied myself it opens and shuts and looks correct it probably never be opened again anyway.....
Funny but i have enjoyed sorting this problem more than the rest of the build
First i made a stronger copy of the original but longer... This gave me a good starting point to do something quite different
I decided i needed a constant so i fixed the bracket to the cover and this showed that a rod through the brackets would go straight through the gearbox.
So first thing was to bend the bracket ( or as we engineers say) finely tune to clear
Then i used the same method i used on the top roll bar ie: sleeved a couple of rods off the original fixing and (finely tuned them) to arrive at the bar between the mounting brackets..
This will be a lot stronger, the brass is harder than the white metal and the tube section is stronger. As this is going to hold the whole resin cover it needs to be strong so it shuts correctly and i dont have to keep bending it to fit properly.
I just need to assemble the thing now. the Rods into the alloy sleeves is easy but not sure about the rods on to the cross bar (hinge) ? But soldering is not that strong so i wonder about a 2 pack epoxy or maybe both. truth is once i have satisfied myself it opens and shuts and looks correct it probably never be opened again anyway.....
Funny but i have enjoyed sorting this problem more than the rest of the build
I know what you mean. I've done stuff like this that ends up not even being seen.Funny but i have enjoyed sorting this problem more than the rest of the build
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looking like a good solid fix Paddy.
paddy
Well-known member
The body work is quite a mission but if you turn the TV off (and everything else) and concentrate. Its rewarding
As there are no holes in the panels you have to drill them and some pannels like the outer sill, floor pan and door step are all joined together with one hole through all 3 so you have to position everything exactly where you want it, typically the top 2 holes will be clearance and the bottom smaller for threading. Thre is nowhere to hide, get this wrong and you only have yourself to blame. Its a 3D jigsaw.
I am currently working on the doors
this is the door step with 2 magnets fitted to hold the doors shut
This shows the doors with their hinges mounted to the front door post
And the doors with the door step , there is no adjustment apart from carefully bending the hinges but they are pretty good anyway.
Next step in the vacuum formed windscreen. I hate Vac form, i cant see the cut lines very well, there are no second chances and the glass and wheels go to make up the most important bits of a good model car
I think i am near putting some paint on the body, i want to get this done ASAP because i think i need at least a week + to get get the paint hard.
On plastic the same paints seem to go off in an hour , it maybe because the metal needs an etch primer and that is slowing the overall process down .
As there are no holes in the panels you have to drill them and some pannels like the outer sill, floor pan and door step are all joined together with one hole through all 3 so you have to position everything exactly where you want it, typically the top 2 holes will be clearance and the bottom smaller for threading. Thre is nowhere to hide, get this wrong and you only have yourself to blame. Its a 3D jigsaw.
I am currently working on the doors
this is the door step with 2 magnets fitted to hold the doors shut
This shows the doors with their hinges mounted to the front door post
And the doors with the door step , there is no adjustment apart from carefully bending the hinges but they are pretty good anyway.
Next step in the vacuum formed windscreen. I hate Vac form, i cant see the cut lines very well, there are no second chances and the glass and wheels go to make up the most important bits of a good model car
I think i am near putting some paint on the body, i want to get this done ASAP because i think i need at least a week + to get get the paint hard.
On plastic the same paints seem to go off in an hour , it maybe because the metal needs an etch primer and that is slowing the overall process down .
Seal it, give it a dark wash to accent the lines and then strip it once done?
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
The accent lines are a good idea, but start with them cut way oversize. Then trim them just enough to set down over where they will go. Line them up and make fine little marks along where the edges will go. Trim down close to those marks and either with a fine file or fine sanding stick work the edges in a little at a time, testing all the while.
paddy
Well-known member
So what i did was along the lines of Pauls suggestion.
The vac form when its fitted sits in a slight recess on a ledge about 10 thou deep and 25 thou wide so it flush with body.
I coloured the ledge in with a felt tip pen , cut the vac form to about 3mm to big all round then care fully cut othe longest side to the line in the vac form. Located that line on its corresponding ledge on the panel and taped the whole thing in position. I then used tape again on the outside of the vac along the edge of the black marked ledge that showed through so i transferred the black edges to the vac with tape...then cut the vac along the tape.....and it worked
the vac is held in place with .5mm or 12 thou rivets so now i need to drill the vac through and on to the ledges. its not going to be perfect as drilling by hand a 12thou rivet on to a 25 thou ledge means i have about 6 thousandths of an inch between the hole in the vac and the edge of the vac.
Lets face it thats not really going to happen but this is a learning build for more expensive and complicated builds later...(see below) and i am really happy with what i did last night , just got to do the windscreen and side windows now ....lol
This arrived in the post yesterday
just look at the vac form and rivets on that This will be my effort to redeem my self from the failed Revell E-Type last year ....
I have been really lucky with this jag and the Ferrari i ordered last month as both have arrived without import duty and tax saving me about £150 each !!!!!
The Ferrari has virtually no vac but it has spoked wheels,
what i need is a car with alloy wheels and no windows
Just to complicate things , someone has asked me to build them a Spitfire. I sort of think its a subject i have done, seen the film and read the book but they want it in desert camo and thats something i haven't done so...maybe.
The vac form when its fitted sits in a slight recess on a ledge about 10 thou deep and 25 thou wide so it flush with body.
I coloured the ledge in with a felt tip pen , cut the vac form to about 3mm to big all round then care fully cut othe longest side to the line in the vac form. Located that line on its corresponding ledge on the panel and taped the whole thing in position. I then used tape again on the outside of the vac along the edge of the black marked ledge that showed through so i transferred the black edges to the vac with tape...then cut the vac along the tape.....and it worked
the vac is held in place with .5mm or 12 thou rivets so now i need to drill the vac through and on to the ledges. its not going to be perfect as drilling by hand a 12thou rivet on to a 25 thou ledge means i have about 6 thousandths of an inch between the hole in the vac and the edge of the vac.
Lets face it thats not really going to happen
but this is a learning build for more expensive and complicated builds later...(see below) and i am really happy with what i did last night , just got to do the windscreen and side windows now ....lolThis arrived in the post yesterday
just look at the vac form and rivets on that
This will be my effort to redeem my self from the failed Revell E-Type last year ....I have been really lucky with this jag and the Ferrari i ordered last month as both have arrived without import duty and tax saving me about £150 each !!!!!
The Ferrari has virtually no vac but it has spoked wheels,
what i need is a car with alloy wheels and no windows
Just to complicate things , someone has asked me to build them a Spitfire. I sort of think its a subject i have done, seen the film and read the book but they want it in desert camo and thats something i haven't done so...maybe.
So, a desert scheme, Vokes filter, and American markings like these Mk. Vc?
Or would it be a Mk. Vb with desert scheme and Vokes filter?
I had to look up Dixie Alexander...he was from Illinois. 
centaur567
Well-known member
Really nice set of teeth on the second one. To bad it didn't stay on. Gary S.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Looking really good Paddy. Excellent job on the headlight housings!
