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Junkers Ju87D "Stuka" 1/32
- Thread starter Bagge
- Start date
Got a pair. 
Bagge
Well-known member
The character of the Stuka start to show :woohoo:
And the attachment wire seems to do it's job to, just need a nice foot to hold it now
Not so much now until the worst is about to start.......painting Ik heb angst!!!hmy:
With what part is it best to start the painting? the underside or the topside camo?
//Mats
And the attachment wire seems to do it's job to, just need a nice foot to hold it now
Not so much now until the worst is about to start.......painting Ik heb angst!!!
hmy: With what part is it best to start the painting? the underside or the topside camo?
//Mats
The character of the Stuka start to show :woohoo:
And the attachment wire seems to do it's job to, just need a nice foot to hold it now
Not so much now until the worst is about to start.......painting Ik heb angst!!!
With what part is it best to start the painting? the underside or the topside camo?
//Mats
I agree with Ian, Start bottom up.
jknaus
Administrator
Looking really good Mats. Lightest to darkest is best. Whan you do the wings scan the instructions and blow up to the right size. Then you can cut out the patterns (top of spine also for the fork). Then away you go. btw paint the dive breaks seperatly, and apply after decals. Makes the decaling easier.
James
James
Hi Mats,yes the underside first is the way to go.
My preferred method is to give a base coat of Tamiya rattle can A/S 12 silver, as I use acrylics and have had no paint lift on any build I do.
yellow tips first over the silver, the silver also gives you a better looking yellow.
Also yellow and white are the two hardest colours to spray right, the silver works a treat for this.
let the yellow fully cure , mask off then the blue over the silver.( that's a later pic cause I didn't take one of just the yellow and blue!!!)
let your blue fully cure and mask up all the underside
For my splinter camos I cut Tamiya yellow mask tape into 3 amnd 5mm strips about 30cm long on a glass cutting board with a new blade, this gives a sharp clean cut which benefits later on, these long strips can then be cut to the length for your camo lines.
The tape lays down flat so your edges are always nice and sharp when painting splinter camo's
I just look at the positions of the edges for the camo lines on the paint guide and line up the tape on the model, then ''fill in'' the areas not to be painted
with tape or pieces of paper in the spaces and use the remaining strips you cut earlier to hold the paper firm, also saves some mask tape too.
break out the AB and shhot!
remove your top tape and redo for the last darkest colour
and you're done!
HTH
Way to go Mats
phantom II
Master at Arms
Some clever ideas
Cheers, Christian B)
Cheers, Christian B)
Skinny_Mike
Well-known member
Love the animation! Not many people do an "in-flight" display of an aircraft. This is just awesome, from the idea all the way through your execution. 
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
B)
looking good-love the paint stand.
Ian
looking good-love the paint stand.
Ian
Bagge
Well-known member
Thanks guys for helping me stay motivated
Busy with the small propellers for the sirens, by misstake i cut off the attacments for the props (2 of the 3 versions didn't have them, i'm building the 3rd
)
will put some clearcoat on the disc and see how it turns out :idonno
//Mats
Busy with the small propellers for the sirens, by misstake i cut off the attacments for the props (2 of the 3 versions didn't have them, i'm building the 3rd
)
will put some clearcoat on the disc and see how it turns out :idonno
//Mats
