Revell 1/144 HMCS Snowberry

[Sharkmouth]

Dare i say it ? this is probably the most enjoyable build i have ever done .................maybe i should have waited till i finished before i said that

I agree on waiting... Things have a habit of changing when one let's one's guard down!

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Glad you are enjoying the build Paddy. That is after all the whole point of building something.

 

[Rhino]

That's how the old hobby town was down in Augusta.

Did I ever tell you that I think some of my ancestors came from Dorking?

Dorking? Dork King? 5 toes? This all means something.
I need not know about the size of your rooster.

 

[Rhino]

I think the key here is working out what PE is there for the sake of it and what is actually needed to enhance the model for example there is a PE sheet on the under side of the top deck floor or the ceiling of the lower passageway ?. The fencing on the sides and back should be poles and canvas. The PE makes it look like sheet steel, on reflection i think the kit parts would have been better as they are detailed both sides. PE is good for fine detail like ladders and many other small parts but i am not sure its use in the basic structure is very good. Anyway it's fun so far and thats what its all about. I am already considering building another OTB as the kit parts actually look very good

View attachment 195338

I have also stained the wood down a bit, in reality it would be black but i want to emphasize its wood and not metal.

This is absolutely outstanding!

 

[paddy]

I think this is as far as i can go with the bridge. I ran into problems with the 20mm Oerlikon guns which should be all PE however i found the PE kept snapping when folded . What we have here is a mix of PE, kit parts and scratch ammo drums etc. This is probably where 3D print would beat 2D PE hands down. The gun shields do look a bit thick but this is a macro pic and they look much better to the naked eye. i should have thinned them down but its too late now as the mounts wont take removal and refit

I am not sure at this stage what to do about weathering ? You see lots of these builds with lots of rust but apart from being quite clever artistically i dont see any real point unless you are going the whole hog with a seascape /diorama. Consequently i am leaning towards a museum type finish with pin washes etc to highlight detail.

 

[moon puppy]

Yeah I could see myself having issues with doing a deep weathering on a build like this. I'm so random on how I do thinks some assemblies could look like they came from another build completely.

I like the idea of building this to make it look like it's on a shelf in the Admiralty.

 

[RichB]

The Navy has a saying, "If it doesn't move, paint it."

Ships at sea had a "Chip and Paint" routine. When weather permitted, the superstructure and fittings had corrosion chipped off, surfaces washed and fresh primer and paint applied. The hull would receive the same treatment when the ship was in port. As a result ships could have a patch work look of freshly painted to heavily corroded areas.

Ships received a complete repaint during refits, usually every 6-12 months, or sooner if the Admiralty ordered new colours or patterns or it was transferred to a new area of operations, North Atlantic, English Channel, Mediterranean, etc.

Cheers,
RichB

 

[Tim A.]

It's all looking good. Way over my head and skill Paddy.
I see you have the waterline issue figured out. I use a pencil glued to a stand at the proper height and with the ship stable on the table I mark the hull.
The railing canvas could be done with Silkspan.

 

[Rhino]

You can bet that the areas inside the hull might have been well cared for during the endless hours of boredom, punctuated by minutes of utter terror, but the outside of the hull likely received little attention between drydock periods.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

It's all looking good. Way over my head and skill Paddy.
I see you have the waterline issue figured out. I use a pencil glued to a stand at the proper height and with the ship stable on the table I mark the hull.
The railing canvas could be done with Silkspan.

Don't knock your talents Tim. We all have skills that we share here and yours are right up there with the rest of us.

 

[paddy]

I managed to roll the PE for the funnel and its turned out really good. Nearly all the PE here is extras not included as plastic parts in the kit. Its pretty straight as it mostly folding up boxes . Of course i have lost an important part which is a small desk with three gauges on that goes over that square hole in the deck on the right.

Where do these parts disappear too. ? I completely cleared a 6ft x 6ft area, hoovered, it examined every inch 0of the collected debris with a torch and after 1/2 an hour i gave up looking for the part. Its not hard to scratch another but i bet the original turns up as soon as i do

 

[Rhino]

Just WOW! Every time you post a photo. Wow!

https://www.scalemates.com/kits/aoshima-205822-royal-navy-flower-class-corvette--1809607

Aoshima have freshly released this vessel in my scale as well.
Cheers!

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Also check your clothes, pockets, and things like that. Watch parts go in all kinds of weird places and in rare cases they "HAVE" to be found.

Your PE work is looking really good Paddy!

 

[moon puppy]

It'll turn up right next to your wire cutters when you're doing your next spoked wheel. Right in the open!

The shinny stuff looks impressive, well done and clean. Very navy like.

 

[paddy]

I lost a 20mm Oerlikon last night..... Today i am going clear this end of the room completely. I mean the Oerlikon is sugar lump size for gods sake. I felt it hit my knee on the way down......