About 80% there.
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Wingnut Wing SE.5a
- Thread starter moon puppy
- Start date
About 80% there.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
It's got shiny wires there Bob!
That's why it's only 80%.
If there's a note I can add it's this. Drill out those attachment points for the rigging WAY before now.
If there's a note I can add it's this. Drill out those attachment points for the rigging WAY before now.
Last edited:
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
If you have a steady enough hand you can use a hot needle to start a hole, then drill it out to size. Note, I said "start" because if you insert it too deep it does other things around the edge of the hole you won't want.
Oh and now Yahoo mail search is broken with their new update. About par for the course, like certain politicians, they promise new and improved and it is more broken than it was before. Can't even send an email to complain now. Also about par for the course.
Oh and now Yahoo mail search is broken with their new update. About par for the course, like certain politicians, they promise new and improved and it is more broken than it was before. Can't even send an email to complain now. Also about par for the course.
@paddy this is what I was talking about with these 3d printed endpoints.
The line is secured into the attachment point hole, then slide the end point down in place.
then slide the anchor point into place, a little thin CA secures it even more.
I've been really inconsistent with this on this build. Some of the attachment points are these anchors some are the thin turnbuckle type things. I used the .07mm brass pipe to represent that, as it is, it's far too thick. Those little anchor points are another question.
vintageaviationnews.com
You can see what I"m talking about in these photos. With the German aircraft it seems pretty consistent that there's a turnbuckle on either end. RFC/RAF are a variety of attachments. I'm playing with the various ways to attach thinking about how to do the Camel.
OK, 85% done.
The line is secured into the attachment point hole, then slide the end point down in place.
then slide the anchor point into place, a little thin CA secures it even more.
I've been really inconsistent with this on this build. Some of the attachment points are these anchors some are the thin turnbuckle type things. I used the .07mm brass pipe to represent that, as it is, it's far too thick. Those little anchor points are another question.
Randy's Warbird Profiles: Royal Aircraft Factory S.E.5a - Vintage Aviation News
This replica at Museum of Flight on Boeing Field in Seattle, Washington is painted in honor of U.S. fighter ace George Vaughn, Jr., who flew an S.E.5a for No.
vintageaviationnews.com
OK, 85% done.
paddy
Well-known member
Ahh i get it now, so the turnbuckle is not under stress, its just a sleeve over the rigging line , that makes perfect sense . Looks really good as well, I presume that is the elastic wire. I would certainly be willing to give that a go next time. Only disadvantage i can see is you need to buy the rigging line and turnbuckles where as i buy the brass tube but make the rest.
Yeah the .07 tube is too big if you look back at the real stuff but I can't get .05mm tube to thread with that flat line. Also the orientation of the flat line is not consistent because I"m not rigging it through a eyelet. I think these anchors are best representative.
Another option, I know a guy who printed out turn buckles and other hardware with a slit lengthwise on them where you slide them into place AFTER you rig the line.
Another option, I know a guy who printed out turn buckles and other hardware with a slit lengthwise on them where you slide them into place AFTER you rig the line.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
Something to think about Bob is that your don't have to use round tubing. You can put a small wire inside that is thicker than what you are putting inside and squeeze it down into an oval which should work well for the flat flying wires.
You first....I'll have to see that trick.
Well I'm trying to screw it up.
The elevators and rudders have mere suggestion of attachment points to fix in place so I figure pin them in. The leading edges of the rudder and elevators are really thin, only feel like a .4mm will work. In drilling out the holes with my brand new drill bits...I broke on off in the stabilizer. Tried to work it out and only made it worse. Then I got the idea to just cut out the block and build it back but the decal and paint would get hosed and I'd have to match it up...but wait, there's a spare fuselage with spare stabilizer. So i broke out the razor saw.
I'll use the incorrect decal, what do I really care about that.
I pinned the new stabilizer to the fuselage with .5mm rod. hey, it worked out better than I hoped.
Coat of primer
then some PC10 tomorrow and it's back to the races.
The elevators and rudders have mere suggestion of attachment points to fix in place so I figure pin them in. The leading edges of the rudder and elevators are really thin, only feel like a .4mm will work. In drilling out the holes with my brand new drill bits...I broke on off in the stabilizer. Tried to work it out and only made it worse. Then I got the idea to just cut out the block and build it back but the decal and paint would get hosed and I'd have to match it up...but wait, there's a spare fuselage with spare stabilizer. So i broke out the razor saw.
I'll use the incorrect decal, what do I really care about that.
I pinned the new stabilizer to the fuselage with .5mm rod. hey, it worked out better than I hoped.
Coat of primer
then some PC10 tomorrow and it's back to the races.
centaur567
Well-known member
When there's a will, there's a way. Gary S.
Funny you mention that, it's getting attention now.
Tail feather repair job complete. I might be able to snug the rudder up closer by trimming the pin a smidge.
Will flatten out the repair paint job.
Dag nabbit!!Got a scratch on the prop covering. Knew I should have moved it back in the box and off the bench.
I think about 90% rigging done.
