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Wildcat F4F-4 the sequel

moon puppy wrote:
Cheyenne wrote:
Yeah what Sherman said , in the ARC pic , it looks the same ?

Looks more the same now.... :mpup



Just figured out that Trumpeter has no provision for the intake manifold. The exhaust is aligned in the center of the cylinder head, this is incorrect also. it should be off center to allow the intake to attach to the other side of the cylinder head.

ARC reference picture
01.jpg

Notice the two tubes coming in and out of the back of the cylinder? One is exhaust and the other is intake. Trumpeter only has exhaust.

I ain't doing it..no really, the voices are telling me to do it, to move the exhaust and build the intakes... I ain't gonna do it...how much time does those voices expect me to spend on just the engine???? MAKE THEM STOP!! :gogo :gogo

James, guess i'm wrong. the exhaust goes outside the intakes. AND I SEE I INSTALLED MY INTAKES ON THE WRONG PORT! :duh :duh :duh

Perhaps it's a good time to step back and maybe work on the halftrack some... :mpup
 
No, No, No please don't stop!!!!! where else can us armor junkies go to get entertained.... How many aircraft modellers does it take to figure out the manifolds that......never mind :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:

randy :) :)
 
I'm lovin' this one Pup. I really have a liking for the old Wildcat.
Hey food for thought, have you ever tried solder for the manifolds? As a car modeler I use it all the time when making exhaust pipes and such. Easy to bend and super glue works well on it and it comes in all diameters. Just don't use the rosin core stuff.
G
 
I don't have any solder this thick, it's about 1mm. You can look back at the old build and see the manifold. I do have brass tubing but that's going to be an exercise in what we've learned from Watanabe-san. I may replace the kit parts exhaust ports and keep the exhaust manifold, I know it sounds weird but trust me.
 
solder wire would have been my suggestion too :) - but OK ... I've said nothing and wait for the next update.
 
I'll measure the thickness of the manifold. The problem is the way the exhaust manifold connects to each cylinder. Now the intakes will be easy to do in solder! Just have to find some thick enough.
 
moon puppy wrote:
I'll measure the thickness of the manifold. The problem is the way the exhaust manifold connects to each cylinder. Now the intakes will be easy to do in solder! Just have to find some thick enough.

Plumbing solder. Try to get some without the flux (solid core) as it seems to break down with age and shows up when not welcome. Also the solid core is a little less flexable than resin core and so will hold shape better.
James
 
And now for the next installment of Obsessive Modeling Disorder.

Here's what Trumpeter suggested for the center wall support in the Accessory bay. Eduards supplies a simple over lay with a little more rivet detail and added plumbing. First thing has to go is this half rand thing that is suppose to be totally round cylinder.

wildcat124.jpg



wildcat126.jpg

this is Eduards offering of what would appear to be a pump of some sort, a square box? It's suppose to be a cylinder, a half round part would be better representation.

wildcat125.jpg

Taking what I"ve picked up from the Brass Master Watanabe-san I created a couple of brass fittings with various sized tubes. Nothing on the order of what he would do but just cosmetic effect. I did use the bracket, though my pump is a bit thicker than it needs to be , it's going to work in my case.

wildcat127.jpg

this is the replacement for those half round things molded on the side.

There will be tubing coming in and out of these parts going to parts unknown, but who's going to know eh?
wildcat129.jpg

wildcat130.jpg

Here's the pretty much completed firewall, still some various wiring and plumbing needs to be done as well as the drive chains for the landing gear retraction gear. got sloppy with the CA down at the bottom but I can color it to look like build up grease and grime...that or Battle Damage... :D

Now to wait for parts to figure out how to pull this all off!
 
moon puppy wrote:
... got sloppy with the CA down at the bottom but I can color it to look like build up grease and grime...that or Battle Damage...

This is just another reason to use Gator's Grip Hobby Glue, water clean up on the finish face of the product.

Looks good by the way, aside from the glue mess! :D

Regards,
 
I can't get that stuff to stick! I wish I could, don't know what I'm doing wrong with it. I've bought two bottles from the guy and still can't get it to work.
 
For the spilt glue get a fiberglass refinishing pen. I got mine from the auto section of Wallmart. It removes glue withought damaging the metal or plastic.
James
 
I agree with James but be VERY careful of the bristles that fly off! It is called fiberGLASS for a reason!

Regards,
 
moon puppy wrote:
I can't get that stuff to stick!

PM me a photo of a toothpick dipped in the glue, I want to see if it is thick or runny. Do NOT place an order until the weather warms up. Once frozen, the glue is useless.

Regards,
 
Thanks James, not sure if I like the idea of going to Walmart or not, at least it's better than going to Radio Shack... :mpup
 
Acetone will clean up that cya- use a Q-tip. If you're worried about getting it on plastic, use nail polish remover- it's basically thinned acetone. B)
 
chukw wrote:
Acetone will clean up that cya- use a Q-tip. If you're worried about getting it on plastic, use nail polish remover- it's basically thinned acetone. B)

:woohoo:

I got a can of it under the work bench right now. Thanks Chuck!
 
Hiya Moon Puppy.

That is a nice looking firewall. Much much better than what yah get in the box.





moon puppy wrote:
chukw wrote:
Acetone will clean up that cya- use a Q-tip. If you're worried about getting it on plastic, use nail polish remover- it's basically thinned acetone. B)

:woohoo:

I got a can of it under the work bench right now. Thanks Chuck!

Soooo :unsure: .






How often do you do your nails ;)

Gary B)
 
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