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RAF 112 Sqn Kittyhawk
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
dewertus
Active member
Cramps, Paddy - I just bought Kittihawk Mk.III (P-40M) and decals from 112 Squadron with the intent to build a model from the time when "shark" squadron were stationing on Malta and Sicily, but when I look at your model I beginning to wonder if will be better for me to made it in secret - you place high transverse 
BWT - my P-40 will be a little unusual as for 112 Sqn - it's GA-Q FR309
BWT - my P-40 will be a little unusual as for 112 Sqn - it's GA-Q FR309
paddy
Well-known member
Barney...you don't need a P=40
http://hgw.webgarden.cz/hgw-seatbelts
You need a translator on you browser but i got these from Hannants,
Hubert
Your builds put mine to shame you go ahead and do a WIP. I for one would love to see a different angle on the P-40 Cant have too many !
http://hgw.webgarden.cz/hgw-seatbelts
You need a translator on you browser but i got these from Hannants,
Hubert
Your builds put mine to shame
you go ahead and do a WIP. I for one would love to see a different angle on the P-40 Cant have too many !
paddy
Well-known member
Closed that nasty gap up with a spreader and a bit of trimming, sorted out the trailing edges as well
Spent some time today fitting PE parts to the under carriage , replacement doors fabricated from PE parts. and lots of trim flap horns and things no one will ever notice. also added the large horn that works the rudder which is strangely missing from the kit ?
Spent some time today fitting PE parts to the under carriage , replacement doors fabricated from PE parts. and lots of trim flap horns and things no one will ever notice
. also added the large horn that works the rudder which is strangely missing from the kit ?
paddy
Well-known member
I have decided to go with pre shading underneath which would not be subject to the intense Sun that the top surfaces would be exposed too. I think i will go for a light er post shade on the top while thinking that sand would get into ever crack and crevice and is very light in colour. Fact is i am making it up as i go along but i know that other Kittyhawk builds i have seen on line dont quite look as i would expect for a sand blasted sun faded, out in all weathers finish
Tamiya flat black pre share
For the finish coat i have gone for another first for me by using Xtracrlix. The plus side is their super accurate colours matched to FS numbers. The minus side is the horror stories you read on line about clogging guns and poor finish.
To try and avoid problems i got everything ready and once i started spraying i carried on so the paint didn't get a chance to set in the nozzle. I thinned the paint about 10% with tap water and it went on very well although its supposed to be gloss and came out Matt. The colour does look as i would expect which is good.
I have put a pretty heavy coat of azure blue on as i dont want a heavy pre shade, subtle is the name of the game. I hope the effect is not lost with a flat coat after decals. I might give it an oil wash to lift the panel lines a bit.
The next problem might be masking this as the other horror story you read on line is this paint lifts with masking tape. I'm hoping that with the heavy primer i have given the model this will not happen .....we will see.
Tamiya flat black pre share
For the finish coat i have gone for another first for me by using Xtracrlix. The plus side is their super accurate colours matched to FS numbers. The minus side is the horror stories you read on line about clogging guns and poor finish.
To try and avoid problems i got everything ready and once i started spraying i carried on so the paint didn't get a chance to set in the nozzle. I thinned the paint about 10% with tap water and it went on very well although its supposed to be gloss and came out Matt
. The colour does look as i would expect which is good.
I have put a pretty heavy coat of azure blue on as i dont want a heavy pre shade, subtle is the name of the game
. I hope the effect is not lost with a flat coat after decals. I might give it an oil wash to lift the panel lines a bit.The next problem might be masking this as the other horror story you read on line is this paint lifts with masking tape. I'm hoping that with the heavy primer i have given the model this will not happen .....we will see.
paddy
Well-known member
Lots of fun today trying something else new ( well to me anyway ) :laugh:
Spent the day building a bomb....
This is the std Kit bomb with a PE tail... sprayed with a wet coat of primer. Rolled while still wet in some Plain Flour from the kitchen, and given a coat of olive drab..some decals and a flat coat.
Lots of Micro Set to get the yellow stripe to conform to the rough surface = One old cast iron bomb :laugh:
Spent the day building a bomb....
This is the std Kit bomb with a PE tail... sprayed with a wet coat of primer. Rolled while still wet in some Plain Flour from the kitchen, and given a coat of olive drab..some decals and a flat coat.
Lots of Micro Set to get the yellow stripe to conform to the rough surface = One old cast iron bomb :laugh:
I hope you have read this review on Hannants Xtracrylix.
Note that these are the same paints (at twice the price) sold by Jadar Hobby with the original brand of Agama.
I find them to brush paint fabulously and will soon try the airbrush so the aforementioned article is a great primer. Also, Hubert (dewertus) turned me onto the Agama paints after seeing his models in person at a time he brush painted them. No brush marks anywhere and only $1.67USD (1.26Euro) from Jadar Hobby!
Regards,
Barney
Well-known member
Let me toss my $0.35 cents in (ain't inflation a PIA!)
I have done a fair amount of business with Jadar over the last year. They are great. Prices are good, shipping times are excellent and the have found stuff for me that I have not been able to locate myself. If I am looking for unusual stuff... I check there be fore Hannants or any other European On-line store...
I have done a fair amount of business with Jadar over the last year. They are great. Prices are good, shipping times are excellent and the have found stuff for me that I have not been able to locate myself. If I am looking for unusual stuff... I check there be fore Hannants or any other European On-line store...
Barney, I have visited their shop from the time they opened up the web store. Each time I go to Poland, I make a visit. They are good people (as most Poles are) and direct, abrupt, honest, enough to make us Americans a tad uneasy as we are not accustomed to it.
Regards,
paddy
Well-known member
I just read the test Saul and i would agree 100%. I found that tap water worked well although i wouldnt say i cut it more than 10%. It will be interesting to try it at 50%. At 10% azure blue had no problem covering black. 50% might well give you more control over coverage.
It would be a lot better if it will work at 50% because at 10% you don't get much from a bottle and i can see it becoming very expensive using it almost neat.
Providing it dosnt lift when i mask the blue off to do the upper surfaces i will be pretty pleased with it. I usually use Tamiya which is all but fool proof but is also pretty limited in its colour range.
Cheers
Paddy
I just checked the price, Tamiya is £1.55 for 10ml, Xtracrylix is £2.00 for 16mm so its actually a bit cheaper than Tamiya. those are Hannants prices but most model shops over here charge £2 a bottle for Tamiya which makes Xtracrylix very good value. Especially if you can cut it for free with water.
Thats £2 = $3.20 for xtracrylix.
Notice in Poland you are only getting 10ml not the 16ml we get from Hannants.
It would be a lot better if it will work at 50% because at 10% you don't get much from a bottle and i can see it becoming very expensive using it almost neat.
Providing it dosnt lift when i mask the blue off to do the upper surfaces i will be pretty pleased with it. I usually use Tamiya which is all but fool proof but is also pretty limited in its colour range.
Cheers
Paddy
I just checked the price, Tamiya is £1.55 for 10ml, Xtracrylix is £2.00 for 16mm so its actually a bit cheaper than Tamiya. those are Hannants prices but most model shops over here charge £2 a bottle for Tamiya which makes Xtracrylix very good value. Especially if you can cut it for free with water.
Thats £2 = $3.20 for xtracrylix.
Notice in Poland you are only getting 10ml not the 16ml we get from Hannants.
paddy
Well-known member
I note that when i sprayed this Xtra paint i did a test card and some sheet plastic card i had and tried to mix tamiya colours to get a near match ( what ever i did to blue base turned it green ) 
This morning the Xtra colour flakes off easy with a finger nail, very much like a scratch card. The Tamiya is solid, i tried a blunt knife on it and its staying where it is. Neither was primed so obviously the Tamiya has a etching agent in it which is missing from Xtra, lets hope on the kit the Xtra sticks as it was primed. I think this is going to be the major difference here. You dont need to prime Tamiya.
This morning the Xtra colour flakes off easy with a finger nail, very much like a scratch card. The Tamiya is solid, i tried a blunt knife on it and its staying where it is. Neither was primed so obviously the Tamiya has a etching agent in it which is missing from Xtra, lets hope on the kit the Xtra sticks as it was primed. I think this is going to be the major difference here. You dont need to prime Tamiya.
randy_ditton
Master at Arms
Hi Paddy, Enjoying this one alot, the bomb looks great
Randy
Randy
Since I have the Agama paints to use soon enough, I am at the edge of my workbench wondering what will happen when the tape is pulled off!
Regards,
Regards,
