MHF Crocker

[moon puppy]

Is the rotor under the cap?

 

[paddy]

Hi Paul
The frame is pretty near now, it was 1/2" out at the front !! I cant photo it properly because i am getting a fish eye lens effect because i am to close but its much closer than it looks.
once the engine is in the frame it will be 10x more rigid and once i get the forks and wheels in it i can fine adjust alignment

rotor under the cap Bob.

 

[paddy]

Note to self............remember to check if the frame is straight ?

 

[Paulw]

Will you be able to straighten that buggar out, Paddy?

 

[paddy]

This stuff is like putty Paul. It bends if you look at it. My worry is i have to drill all the holes in it for the spokes and they are all at an angle.
I can set it up on the drill press to drill them all at the same angle but i fear the wheel will bend under the pressure of the drill unless its supported round each hole. I need to put my thinking cap on.....

 

[moon puppy]

Wheel has a front? Paddy you've made spoked wheels from scratch before. Why not use this as a template and scratch one? (easy for me to say way over here...)

 

[paddy]

I have some resin rims that would work Bob but what i have found with this model is the further you go with construction the more rigid it all becomes. I wouldn't mind betting that as i add spokes this wheel will hold its shape and quadruple in strength.
The frame was the same but as you add the engine and other parts it all becomes a lot more rigid as the other parts are a majority of its final strength.
I will find a way to true the rims, the difficult part i suspect will be drilling 42 holes in each and keeping the shape

 

[paddy]

Not impressed with these wheels. I got them passably true, etch primed them, gloss blacked and clear coated them however in order to fit the spokes you need to press the rim into as rough cast jig....which just takes the paint off the rims.

so i stripoped them back to bare metal and semi polished them

I will get the finish a bit better then clear coat them so they dont tarnish.

Poor design, poor casting and a very strange way of building. The rim must not move in the jig in relation to the hub but there is no way of holding the rim in the jig.
the spokes supplied are very hared, could be stainless or chromed piano wire, either way they all need to be bent and cut and they killed my cutters instantly

Resin wheel rims would be 100x better and cheaper, if 3D printed then you could put the spoke holes in, they would be easier to paint as well
I have ordered some 0.5mm Nickel silver wire tonight and will probably make my own spokes

This is a resin rimed wheel with nickle silver spokes i made for my recent Alfa 2300 build

More than adequate, sometimes less is more.

 

[Rhino]

Could copper or brass wire be substituted? By the by, what is a good compound for blackening metal parts (besides paint)?

 

[centaur567]

Great stuff !! Gary S.

 

[Steve Ski]

You're making it happen again, Paddy! All these little blurps are a pain and drive us nuts, but that's half the fun right? Ok, don't answer that,........