The MFH Rescue Centre

[paddy]

The problem i think is that the metal casting moulds used by MFH are silicone moulds that have a short run before they deteriorate. This is why MFH kits are produced in low volume and short runs and rarely re-issued or repeated. The silicone moulds would be produced from a brass master usually so it is possible to produce second runs.
I have looked at the chain on my recent Crocker build and although i did have to buy a second chain kit to produce one chain, i did manage to assemble 110 links as required. The point is the castings on the chain i made up were 100% better than the ones in the Brough kit and although i have bought another chain kit, its even worse than the one supplied in the kit
I think its safe to say that while first runs and early examples are passable, later runs are not as the moulds have deteriorated and sizing is critical. this probably is not as important on most parts but the chain has to be right to work.
Unfortunately MFH dont answer questions as i supose they dont have an answer however why they still produce the chain as a separate part when they know these chains are even worse( later issues) than the kit parts is anyone's guess.

 

[moon puppy]

Well, how we going to get pass this?

 

[paddy]

I cant see a way round this Bob. The whole set up needs a re design.
I spent a life time in this field sorting out production design and associated problems for companies and this is one of those projects that needs to start again, i dont see a viable fix.
No doubt MFH wanted to keep all production in house which is why they went down this route but even a rubber band chain would be a more realistic option than no chain.
If i had to write a report, which thank god i dont anymore, i would say the design and construction method is constrained by the desire to build/supply a working chain on a model where the wheels are fixed so "working" is completely unnecessary. Once you accept that working is not needed then neither are individual side plates and rollers .
That said if you are prepared to farm the production out then nylon is probably the answer as used by Tamiya on their motorcycle chain in both 1:6 and 1:12 .
For this model i think i can get a short length together with glue for the section that is visible IE: not behind engine covers and the chain guard.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Too bad you can't get some fine brass tubing about the right diameter of the main part, then some fine solder wire the diameter to go through the PE and tubing. Cut the tubing to lengths and the solder long enough to brad the ends over the PE.

 

[paddy]

You heard it here first......Decalcas replied to my request saying they are currently working on a chain in 1/9 scale and it will be ready in a few weeks. Of course modern chains are different pitch to vintage chains but at least it might give MFH builders something to work with.

 

[Rhino]

You heard it here first......Decalcas replied to my request saying they are currently working on a chain in 1/9 scale and it will be ready in a few weeks. Of course modern chains are different pitch to vintage chains but at least it might give MFH builders something to work with.

Outstanding! Molten metal is tough on silicone molds, even if you use the hi-temp variety.

 

[paddy]

Progressing again now , built up the rear sub frame and attached and everything is still straight which is a miracle These are not easy builds and when something goes right its like the sun came out on a cloudy BBQ..

 

[moon puppy]

Good job Paddy.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

Attention to details pay off if you are doing so throughout the build. Looking really good Paddy!

 

[paddy]

it was going to happen, i chipped the tank, an almost impossible repair without another decal.

 

[moon puppy]

That's tough luck Paddy. Are you going to 86 this?

 

[paddy]

86 ?

 

[moon puppy]

86 ?

Trash it.

 

[paddy]

Good grief no This is a £550 kit, if that chip is the only thing wrong when its finished it would be a miracle anyway
A real Brough like this would be 100 years old now, its entitled to a chip.....or 20

 

[Heavens Eagle]

@paddy I have done chip repair to watch dials in the past with a really fine brush. The trick is to have the paint thinned "just enough" with retarder that you can flow very small amount from just the tip. It takes a bit of a steady hand, but the trick is to start in the center of the chip and flow the paint around to just fill to the edges and not over them. Of course this is easier with a larger chip rather than a tiny one, but it can work quite well. Once the hole is filled, make sure it is "slightly" overfilled so the surface bulges up a little. As it dries the surface will then settle down to about the same level as the surrounding paint.
I once had an old Rolex dial that a 1.5 to 2mm chip hole appeared in it. I knew that there was a perfect hobby paint that would match it at the local hobby shop. It was Tamiya or Mr. Hobby, I don't remember now for sure. Anyway once I did the repair and it was finished, you could only barely make out the edge of the chip hole with magnification. The color and finish were a perfect match and I just carefully "filled" the hole.

 

[paddy]

Thanks Paul, i will give it a go. Shame about that decal or i would just start again. That said it would be tricky as i cant get the tank off the frame with the engine fitted which was the problem in the first place.

 

[centaur567]

It's like looking at the real thing. Gary S.

 

[moon puppy]

Good grief no This is a £550 kit, if that chip is the only thing wrong when its finished it would be a miracle anyway
A real Brough like this would be 100 years old now, its entitled to a chip.....or 20

Oh good! You could take Pauls advice and attempt to repair it or run with it, make it look like a barn find?

 

[Rhino]

Impressive per usual! What does the box with the chain sprocket in the middle do on a 100-year-old motorbike?

 

[Impisi]

you really mastered the art of painting plastic into metal to look real - looks great