Messerschmitts X 3

[Heavens Eagle]

I will have to agree with Les on using Super Glue for a filler. EXCEPT for the brand I pointed out "bsi". I have found that this brand is formulated a bit different and doesn't generally become rock hard especially when I mix the thin fast and medium types. I have been working on the Pegasus "When Worlds Collide" Space ark kit and have used this to fill the little gaps a the wing roots. The sanding and smoothing has been done 1 or 2 days later and I have had no problem with hardness. In fact the joints have even taken on some of the plastic color so you can't even see where the seam is.

Different brands and thicknesses all have different formulations and they all react differently. That is why I was specific about what I use. Other brands I have used, become quite hard when they set up just like Les says.

What brand of Superglue do you use for the gap filling Les?

 

[Hippy Ed]

I will have to agree with Les on using Super Glue for a filler. EXCEPT for the brand I pointed out "bsi". I have found that this brand is formulated a bit different and doesn't generally become rock hard especially when I mix the thin fast and medium types. I have been working on the Pegasus "When Worlds Collide" Space ark kit and have used this to fill the little gaps a the wing roots. The sanding and smoothing has been done 1 or 2 days later and I have had no problem with hardness. In fact the joints have even taken on some of the plastic color so you can't even see where the seam is.

Different brands and thicknesses all have different formulations and they all react differently. That is why I was specific about what I use. Other brands I have used, become quite hard when they set up just like Les says.

What brand of Superglue do you use for the gap filling Les?

:hmmm That makes sense.... Like paints, each reacts differently with different thinners...

 

[matrixone]

Paul,
I use Zap-A-Gap, since that is what I used when building my RC planes and I have the most experience with it but I am sure there are other brands that may be better for use with plastic scale models.

I would be hesitant to use some of the cheaper super glues that are advertised for fixing broken things around the home. The stuff made for RC models is usually quite strong...I know this for a fact after some of the glue got on my fingers when I was applying balsa sheeting to one of my RC models I was building and glued my fingers together really good, CA debonder saved the day and allowed me to free my fingers. :facepalm


Matrixone

 

[Heavens Eagle]

I have used the Zap-A-Gap in the past and it is like you say a HARD surface once set. What set me on to the brand I now use was when building a Forge World resin/plastic kit a couple 3 years ago. Fit was horrid and required a lot of new techniques to get it assembled in a decent manner. My local hobby shop had the BSI brand with the custom label for the shop and I used the medium and thin for the build. I usually had to tack a part in place then using my micro applicators add medium, thin, or a mix of the 2 to the seam/ gap until filled. The extra left on the sapphire crystals I place drops on would usually be glass hard and brittle, but that on the plastic parts was usually about the same as the plastic.

I found the joints were quite strong and some other positive properties of that brand.

I didn't mean to hijack your thread Les. Hope you don't mind.

Waiting for the next installment.

 

[matrixone]

Paul,
That brand of super glue that you use is one that I have not heard of before but sounds like it is better than Zap-A-Gap for use with plastic scale models, when I can I will try it.

For anyone reading this that has not worked much with super glue one important thing I should mention is you can store the super glue in the fridge to greatly extend its shelf life, my opened bottle of glue is over three years old and still fresh. If you don't store the super glue properly it will harden in the bottle after only a few months.


Matrixone

 

[moon puppy]

Good point Les, I've also had it go bad where it will not cure. Same with Accelerators, leave them out or uncapped they go dead...don't ask me how I know.

 

[Heavens Eagle]

All I can say is that when I am applying my CA I put a drop or 2 on one of my defunct Sapphire crystals and use an applicator to get it where I want it. Many times I don't wipe off the crystal but let the Ca set on it over night. The next day the CA has fully set up and looks like dried Future. Clear, smooth, and no white cloud around it. Earlier this week I put quite a bit on a crystal because I was filling some big gaps and quite a bit was left. It dried thick and clear with a slight wave on the surface and "barely" a little haze to one side.

I also like their accelerant as it has a mild odor (as opposed to Zip-Kicker which stinks) and it evaporates much slower and doesn't make the CA heat up and turn to foam. It's possible that it could contribute to the softer consistancy of the CA when it is set up.

I will try and get some photos together over the weekend for a show and tell.

 

[Hippy Ed]

Paul,
That brand of super glue that you use is one that I have not heard of before but sounds like it is better than Zap-A-Gap for use with plastic scale models, when I can I will try it.

For anyone reading this that has not worked much with super glue one important thing I should mention is you can store the super glue in the fridge to greatly extend its shelf life, my opened bottle of glue is over three years old and still fresh. If you don't store the super glue properly it will harden in the bottle after only a few months.


Matrixone

Good advice!

 

[Hippy Ed]

Good point Les, I've also had it go bad where it will not cure. Same with Accelerators, leave them out or uncapped they go dead...don't ask me how I know.

Inquiring minds wanna know!!! :hmmm :hmmm :hmmm hyeah :yipee :tomato

 

[matrixone]

Just a short time ago I looked at the Hyperscale what's new page and there is a nice video demonstration of the new Squadron Mail Order brand of super glue(s), these look pretty good and a big plus is that they are made for plastic models. :woohoo:


Matrixone

 

[Hippy Ed]

Just a short time ago I looked at the Hyperscale what's new page and there is a nice video demonstration of the new Squadron Mail Order brand of super glue(s), these look pretty good and a big plus is that they are made for plastic models. :woohoo:


Matrixone

Sounds like yer impressed with it then?

 

[matrixone]

Ed,
The super glue brand that I have been using is Zap-A-Gap and even though its a great product its intended for putting together large wooden RC models, while it works okay when filling seams on plastic scale models it would be better to use a glue designed from the start for use with plastic surfaces. The Zap-A-Gap glue once it fully hardens is much harder than the plastic that kits are made of making it impossible to smooth down without destroying the plastic next to it. :S
I suspect the new Squadron glue will be easier to work with than Zap-A-Gap, I look forward to reading reviews to see if this is true.


Matrixone

 

[Hippy Ed]

Ed,
The super glue brand that I have been using is Zap-A-Gap and even though its a great product its intended for putting together large wooden RC models, while it works okay when filling seams on plastic scale models it would be better to use a glue designed from the start for use with plastic surfaces. The Zap-A-Gap glue once it fully hardens is much harder than the plastic that kits are made of making it impossible to smooth down without destroying the plastic next to it. :S
I suspect the new Squadron glue will be easier to work with than Zap-A-Gap, I look forward to reading reviews to see if this is true.


Matrixone

 

[phantom II]

Ed,
The super glue brand that I have been using is Zap-A-Gap and even though its a great product its intended for putting together large wooden RC models, while it works okay when filling seams on plastic scale models it would be better to use a glue designed from the start for use with plastic surfaces. The Zap-A-Gap glue once it fully hardens is much harder than the plastic that kits are made of making it impossible to smooth down without destroying the plastic next to it. :S
I suspect the new Squadron glue will be easier to work with than Zap-A-Gap, I look forward to reading reviews to see if this is true.


Matrixone

As I'm sure you know, plastic comes in a variety of hardness .

Wonder If they'll be lucky enough to get it just right.

In the meantime I find that trimming/sanding superglue when it first sets up makes for a lot less fuss than waiting until it is fully cured . :fencing

You might also find this interesting . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7WajXJPPyE8

Cheers, Christian B)

 

[Hippy Ed]

:hmmm

 

[matrixone]

Christian,
When I know I am going to be working with super glue for filling a seam I get everything needed to do the job ready and at hand so there is no delay after I apply the accelerator, its best to work with the super glue in a minute or less.
Another thing that is helpful is to apply the super glue only to the seam line...the less put on the easier it is to smooth down without damaging any molded on detail on the models surface. I use the edge of an old X-acto blade to precisely place the glue on the seam line.

Matrixone

 

[matrixone]

I was not all that happy with the camouflage on the Me 262, the demarcation line of the upper and lower surface colors was too low, I mixed up some RLM 76 and re-sprayed the model to raise the demarcation line a little bit and now it better matches the photograph of the aircraft.

I did more work on the gun cowl on the Erla G-10 and its looking better than before.

The arrow in the image below shows the correction I did on the panel line, as the kit comes out of the box there is an angled seam line right next to this panel line...why Revell did this is hard to figure out, why not just change the shape of the gun cowl ever so slightly so the seam line will be in the same place as a natural seam line like on the full size machine?

Here is one of the silliest things in this kit, the landing gear legs are made from three separate parts with the seam line in a very visible place and must be filled without destroying the surface detail on the legs. The now much older Hasegawa 109 kits have the very same part molded as one piece with an acceptable level of detail, the Revell kit did not improve upon anything the way they chose to mold the parts.

Matrixone

 

[SA Dave]

That swallow shark is looking beter an better

 

[ij001]

Unusual for RoG to over-engineer such a 'basic' part... Wonder why would they go in that direction ?? :hmmm

Ian.

 

[Gator]

That is very nice work.