Nicely done. 
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Italeri Bugatti 1/12 FINISHED
- Thread starter paddy
- Start date
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Not unusual, but I didn't understand a single thing yous guys was talking about with knobs and timing and whatnot! I just like the pretty pictures LOL. And they are fantastic!
Greg Kimsey
Well-known member
Do you anneal the pipe to bend it? I have just learned how to do that. There are some springs from Micro Mark I want to get to make bending smoother. So many tools and techniques, so little time!I wasn't sure that Mig chipping fluid would work with MRP paint as it needs water to soak through it but it works fine.
View attachment 164855
I have now started on the engine bulkhead, its pretty plain so what there is needs to be quite good so i am currently making some copper pipe work. The kit gives you copper wire but its too soft and its hard to get a straight run. I am using 1mm copper tube.
View attachment 164856
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
I usually anneal anything that needs some complex bends and is fairly stiff. Bending tubing can be a bit of a challenge.
I got one of those, I bent it.
centaur567
Well-known member
Are you sure this isn't a real car in Jay Leno's garage? Very nice!! Gary S.
paddy
Well-known member
Actually i haven't found the need to anneal. This might be that Albion alloys brass and copper has reasonable wall thickness for the dia. I also use round nose pliers so the bend is supported as this helps
annealing will soften the brass/copper and stop it "snapping" however its not going to stop it deforming in fact it might encourage it.
Remember there is brass that that will snap if you bend it even 20 degrees and there is brass that you can tie knots in..
its an alloy of copper and zinc so it can be whatever you make it.
also worth mentioning this is 1mm tube, you couldn't do this with thin wall tube above 2mm.
annealing will soften the brass/copper and stop it "snapping" however its not going to stop it deforming in fact it might encourage it.
Remember there is brass that that will snap if you bend it even 20 degrees and there is brass that you can tie knots in..
its an alloy of copper and zinc so it can be whatever you make it.also worth mentioning this is 1mm tube, you couldn't do this with thin wall tube above 2mm.
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Love it!!
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
paddy
Well-known member
This process reminds me a bit of those guys that can cut your silhouette in to a black bit of card while looking at you side on.
This 1mm brass tube, its rigid which you don't get from the supplied brass wire, down side is you don't get a second chance once bent so after several attempts this what i have
I have some 1mm brass nuts which make for good fittings on the end. Not sure why this was brass when all other pipe work is Copper but thats how they were.
It fits !!!!
This 1mm brass tube, its rigid which you don't get from the supplied brass wire, down side is you don't get a second chance once bent so after several attempts this what i have
I have some 1mm brass nuts which make for good fittings on the end. Not sure why this was brass when all other pipe work is Copper but thats how they were.
It fits !!!!
And it's already the right color. 
paddy
Well-known member
Something to ponder while i deal with the insides
The outside panels are made up of several parts. the problem is they are lock wired like this ( along the join from side to under tray
My problem is this needs to be done after assembly and painting and you cant fit the parts together and then fit to the chassis
one option might be to wire the parts separately for example this picture seems to show the panels wired but not laced together
You can just see here there is a wire for the top row and a separate for the bottom row
The outside panels are made up of several parts. the problem is they are lock wired like this ( along the join from side to under tray
My problem is this needs to be done after assembly and painting and you cant fit the parts together and then fit to the chassis
one option might be to wire the parts separately for example this picture seems to show the panels wired but not laced together
You can just see here there is a wire for the top row and a separate for the bottom row
Oh it's safety wired. Didn't you do this on another build? Feels like you need to shave off what you got, get something more pronounced to replace them then get some really small gauge wire to just wrap around each head and string it along.
My oversimplistic view on it.
My oversimplistic view on it.
Heavens Eagle
Well-known member
One source for some really fine silver wire is to take some 22 gauge wire, strip the insulation and unravel the strands. I found even finer wire by taking an old iphone charging cable that broke and was not useable any more and stripped it down. My buddy donated it to me and it has even finer wire.
You could take a thin worn razor blade, put a fine cross cut on the edge to make it into a bit of a super fine saw blade and cut slots in the bolt heads before painting. Then run the wire through the slots and add a touch of thick CA to the slot and touch up with paint. Only a suggestion as I don't really know how proud the bolts are on the kit.
You could take a thin worn razor blade, put a fine cross cut on the edge to make it into a bit of a super fine saw blade and cut slots in the bolt heads before painting. Then run the wire through the slots and add a touch of thick CA to the slot and touch up with paint. Only a suggestion as I don't really know how proud the bolts are on the kit.
That'll do.
