• Modelers Alliance has updated the forum software on our website. We have migrated all post, content and user accounts but we could not migrate the passwords.
    This requires that you manually reset your password.
    Please click here, http://modelersalliance.org/forums/login to go to logon page and use the "Forgot your Password" option.

Italeri Bugatti 1/12 FINISHED

this looks better in my opinion
_DSC8347.JPG
 
Looking good so far, though I would think that there would not be quite so much brass showing. They usually put a pretty decent plating on the parts and it wouldn't wear so much except on edges or where it would get rubbed a lot.
 
Good points Paul however when you see the rest of it after weathering you will see this has been standing for many many years :)
 
Thanks James, i am going for the well worn look this time, these big models are quite easy to build in showroom condition and i need a challenge and weathering has never been a strong point for me. ( in fact any form of painting is a problem for me ) :)
 
OK, I get it, but something you need to know is that nickel isn't shiny silver, it has a bit of a yellow patina. What you are seeing on the radiator isn't the brass coming through, but the nickel oxidizing slightly. Brass in the weather will oxidize fairly quickly and get a brownish look. I have some nickel tweezers that I use and they are about the color of the radiator in the picture. I will take and post a photo when I get the chance.
 
In my business i have done nickel plating at home as vintage motorcycles used it al lot on things like handle bars etc. The reason people brass plate first is to get a good surface to polish and to seal the surface before chrome or nickel plating. I am quite pleased with my radiator against the original in the pic :) even if i did arrive at the finish by luck and fluke :)
2v2H1DsoSxHpLjS.JPG
_DSC8347_01.JPG
 
Last edited:
The finish on the Dash is called Engine turning and this is replicated by a decal

Bugatti put the magneto on the dash so the driver could adjust the ignition timing, a hugely complicated way of doing it because the magneto needs a drive from the engine. Most manufacturers simply operated the mag with a cable and left it on the end of the cam ?
Maybe i am missing something ?

_DSC8357.JPG



_DSC8359.JPG
 
I saw the ignition cable tube and wondered where the mag was. I was SURE if I was just a little patient, you would satisfy my curiosity.
Done did it!
A Gentleman does not go motoring about in the dark.
Will your Bug have headlamps?
 
You might twist my arm into getting one of these yet Paddy.
So far it is a super nice build. Really liking it a lot!
 
Hi Paul, its a bit Italari with its strange way of doing things. I had expected a leap forward from their 1970,s Protar copies realised over the last 15 years but this is very much in the same ball park. Not a modern kit by any means even if it is a new mould 2023 release.

Sorry Rhino its a race car, no lights :-(
 
I wasn't sure that Mig chipping fluid would work with MRP paint as it needs water to soak through it but it works fine.
:)
_DSC8366.JPG


I have now started on the engine bulkhead, its pretty plain so what there is needs to be quite good so i am currently making some copper pipe work. The kit gives you copper wire but its too soft and its hard to get a straight run. I am using 1mm copper tube.


_DSC8374.JPG
 
Last edited:
Back
Top