After a lengthy break from this build, I picked it back up yesterday and decided to make tracks. :S :laugh:
My usual method involves wrapping tape around the sprockets and road wheels to determine the length of the run.
Split the tape and mount it sticky side up to a board, this lets you get your fingers below the level of the tracks to make sure everything is lined up and lets you paint the tracks later.
These links had a small ejector mark that needed to be removed, just a quick zip zip over the sanding stick did the deed. Remember to end with the opposite link or you won't be able to attach them. :cheer:
Second run, same as the first.
Coat each run liberally with Testors Liquid Cement and let it sit about 10 minutes. The Testors seems to work best for me, other liquid cements harden up too fast. Last time I built a KT, I base painted the tracks with flat black, this time I tried Valspar Satin Brown. I had this paint leftover from another project and the brown looks more like the high manganese German track color. :idonno There will be dirt and grime, plus highlites added later, so it's just a base color. Dries quickly too!
Wait about 10 more minutes and carefully remove the runs from the tape. This is where you find out if your liberal coating was complete. :laugh: If any links come loose, relax, breathe and add more cement to the unpainted side. Give it a few more minutes to set up, then paint. Don't get crazy with the paint, just enough to cover the grey. Wait another 10 minutes for paint to dry. Total elapsed time so far, about 30 minutes.
Time to wrap the tracks. Carefully thread the run between the fender and the sprocket, over the road wheels and around the return, slowly forming the run to the sag you want. I like to use cotton swabs to shim things in place, just be sure your paint isn't tacky or you'll experience first the fine art of cotton picking. :laugh:
The return was left loose on this build, it moved when I wrapped the tape, so I wound up being two links short. :pinch: I added them and will paint after run is dry. Since this tank will have skirts, I could have attached the links at the top of the run, thus hiding the joint.
I removed the swabs this morning and things look like they did what I set out to do. I have another eye procedure today, one that will hopefully fix the astigmatism in my left eye and maybe I can get back to the bench full force.
:v :drinks
The truth is, I haven't had the urge to model lately, so I clamped myself to the bench and hammered out an update. Using my Dremel with a flat bottomed burr and my micro chisel, I "damaged" the zimmerit.
