Great job on the research Ian, looks fantastic 
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BATTLE BLOG # 2 -THE FIRST LSSW PANTHER G
- Thread starter Brokeneagle
- Start date
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
:Hiay
Further work done on the weathering using VJ acrylics.
I had to wait a week for the oils to dry then clear flat coat it to protect the base coat.
Installed the rear screens and have added the track to one side. I have used the one peice Majic track for the undamaged side but will use the individual link for the side that has thrown the track (see photo).
Added the brown (Cammo Medium Brown Vallejo 71038)
Then worked on the paint deterioration /.... still in progress, also added numbers 121and the Alders nest blued steel MG 42
Finally a shot of the base with a white glue layer still drying over the chiselled out depression for the base ground work.
Lots of work still to do on the detail of the on board tools and the weathering.
Brokeneagle
Further work done on the weathering using VJ acrylics.
I had to wait a week for the oils to dry then clear flat coat it to protect the base coat.
Installed the rear screens and have added the track to one side. I have used the one peice Majic track for the undamaged side but will use the individual link for the side that has thrown the track (see photo).
Added the brown (Cammo Medium Brown Vallejo 71038)
Then worked on the paint deterioration /.... still in progress, also added numbers 121and the Alders nest blued steel MG 42
Finally a shot of the base with a white glue layer still drying over the chiselled out depression for the base ground work.
Lots of work still to do on the detail of the on board tools and the weathering.
Brokeneagle
:Hiay
Further work done on the weathering using VJ acrylics.
I had to wait a week for the oils to dry then clear flat coat it to protect the base coat.
Installed the rear screens and have added the track to one side. I have used the one peice Majic track for the undamaged side but will use the individual link for the side that has thrown the track (see photo).
Added the brown (Cammo Medium Brown Vallejo 71038)
Then worked on the paint deterioration /.... still in progress, also added numbers 121and the Alders nest blued steel MG 42
Finally a shot of the base with a white glue layer still drying over the chiselled out depression for the base ground work.
Lots of work still to do on the detail of the on board tools and the weathering.
Brokeneagle
Incredible..Ian I can see what you have done but not sure how you did it, can you elaborate please?
The base, you chiseled out the center to make it a rough surface I get that, what's the point of the white glue and letting it dry before adding any colors or textures?
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Thanks James and MP 
Answers..........
I can see what you have done but not sure how you did it, can you elaborate please?
The change is started by attention to the edges of the color and adding some small imperfections to the large areas of steel plate.
1.Even before that, there has been a color darkening all over.
This always happens when I apply the base coat clear (Mr Color 30 Flat clear spray, so I use this darkening as part of the effect.
2. I apply a soft, dry brush approach to adding a solution of MIG track brown plus CMK Dark Earth pigments (mixed together with Mig Pigment fixer)softly to the plate lines and separation lines that would have an accumulation of dirt. I also use this to enhance places where there would be shadows.
3. Using a darker version of the base color (Black Green) I added some paint deterioration at the edges of panels where there may have been traffic. This is done with a soap pad made rough at the leading edge by puling at it with your fingers, this then becomes a random brush that enhances small chips.
4.Using a very fine brush I add some wear to the edges using German cammo black to simulate old rust that has been worn smooth. This must be done with the combat life of the vehicle in mind.
5. Dry brushing of a very light color mixed with oils - in this case a light version of the brown cammo.
Next will be some winter cammo and then some very subtle staining.
The base, you chiseled out the center to make it a rough surface I get that, what's the point of the white glue and letting it dry before adding any colors or textures?
Actually I chiseled the flat surface out just to make a depression in the base, rather than build-up the base too much. I covered it in white glue to seal the exposed grain and actually smooth out the rough parts ready to apply the modelling clay and paste, to form the ground work. I have had bases affected by the white glue and water mix I use to stick down the detail, if it isn't sealed correctly beforehand.
I hope this helps and sorry for being to vague - I tend to worry about telling people stuff that they may already know. Thanks again for the questions MP, always happy to answer.
Ian.
Answers..........
I can see what you have done but not sure how you did it, can you elaborate please?
The change is started by attention to the edges of the color and adding some small imperfections to the large areas of steel plate.
1.Even before that, there has been a color darkening all over.
This always happens when I apply the base coat clear (Mr Color 30 Flat clear spray, so I use this darkening as part of the effect.
2. I apply a soft, dry brush approach to adding a solution of MIG track brown plus CMK Dark Earth pigments (mixed together with Mig Pigment fixer)softly to the plate lines and separation lines that would have an accumulation of dirt. I also use this to enhance places where there would be shadows.
3. Using a darker version of the base color (Black Green) I added some paint deterioration at the edges of panels where there may have been traffic. This is done with a soap pad made rough at the leading edge by puling at it with your fingers, this then becomes a random brush that enhances small chips.
4.Using a very fine brush I add some wear to the edges using German cammo black to simulate old rust that has been worn smooth. This must be done with the combat life of the vehicle in mind.
5. Dry brushing of a very light color mixed with oils - in this case a light version of the brown cammo.
Next will be some winter cammo and then some very subtle staining.
The base, you chiseled out the center to make it a rough surface I get that, what's the point of the white glue and letting it dry before adding any colors or textures?
Actually I chiseled the flat surface out just to make a depression in the base, rather than build-up the base too much. I covered it in white glue to seal the exposed grain and actually smooth out the rough parts ready to apply the modelling clay and paste, to form the ground work. I have had bases affected by the white glue and water mix I use to stick down the detail, if it isn't sealed correctly beforehand.
I hope this helps and sorry for being to vague - I tend to worry about telling people stuff that they may already know.
Thanks again for the questions MP, always happy to answer.Ian.
Thank you Ian 
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
MasterIan.
...the wear to the edges looks extremely realistic
Fantastic look overal!...loving it :frantic
Luiz.
Thanks Luiz
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
BASE UPDATE
Got some time for the base..........
As I left it last time.
GLUE DRIED CLEAR.
ADDED SOME MODELLING CLAY
ADDED SOME GROUND WORKPaint still needed
WORKED ON SOME FIGURES
More to finish on the tank, paint the ground work, blend the vehicle and finish the figures.
Ian.
Got some time for the base..........
As I left it last time.
GLUE DRIED CLEAR.
ADDED SOME MODELLING CLAY
ADDED SOME GROUND WORKPaint still needed
WORKED ON SOME FIGURES
More to finish on the tank, paint the ground work, blend the vehicle and finish the figures.
Ian.
Looks great Ian, Why the white glue before the clay?
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Thanks Cheyenne, glad you like it.
MP - The glue seals the exposed grain from the rest of the base creation process(very runny water/ white glue mix). Once dry it also provides a smoother surface to form the M'Clay over, otherwise there were some sharp edges in the exposed wood that I would have caught my fingers on.
Ian.
MP - The glue seals the exposed grain from the rest of the base creation process(very runny water/ white glue mix). Once dry it also provides a smoother surface to form the M'Clay over, otherwise there were some sharp edges in the exposed wood that I would have caught my fingers on.
Ian.
Brokeneagle
Master at Arms
Happy New Year everyone!
I have been a bit quiet trying to get this dio completed.... tank and base are done, just doing photography.
I have modeled my scene as the crew are bailing out - about 2 weeks before the photo
- the Russians haven't painted the catalog number in white
- and the internal expolosion has not gone off yet which heats up the suspension, making it sag and blows off the far side of the rear deck.
...here are a couple of shots until I finish the figures.
I haven't glued the turret in the set position yet so that gap at the rear will reduce and become an even one all around.
figures are in process.....
I have been a bit quiet trying to get this dio completed.... tank and base are done, just doing photography.
I have modeled my scene as the crew are bailing out - about 2 weeks before the photo
- the Russians haven't painted the catalog number in white
- and the internal expolosion has not gone off yet which heats up the suspension, making it sag and blows off the far side of the rear deck.
...here are a couple of shots until I finish the figures.
I haven't glued the turret in the set position yet so that gap at the rear will reduce and become an even one all around.
figures are in process.....
I thought it was another reference picture.
